Mechanical issues?

[Yellow jacket]

I just bought a 17 model with 10k on it and thought I'd prepare for any mechanical or maintenance issues that might surface in its future. Your thoughts are incouraged. Thank you.

[Coconut]

Hi Yellow Jacket, and 

Don't be put off by these - the Trophy is a FANTASTIC machine,
and armed with a Little knowledge and a few extra precautions
you should be enjoying yours for many years to come ......


In addition to basic maintenance and daily checks,
I would say that the four main things to look at are :

1.  Keep an eye on the Rear Suspension Unit lower bearings
as they are prone to corrosion - if they seize up it can result in a broken Drag Link.
Lubricate them ( Grease ) at least every year.
Topic : Drag Link failure - rear suspension assembly.

2.  The Gear Change Pedal Pivot Bolt, and to a lesser extent the Rear Brake Pivot Bolt
( Same part number ) are prone to seizing onto their shafts because of corrosion,
when the bolt then shears off !
Later Trophies seem less prone to this but it's well worth checking regularly that the pedals
move freely on their shafts.  If not, take them off, clean them and grease them.
Topic : Guide for Gear Lever Strip Down ?

3.  Keep the "Bobbins" free in the front Brake Discs - give them a squirt with Brake Cleaner
and spin them to remove built up brake pad dust etc every few weeks.
Failure to do so can result in the discs seizing on the bobbins, and giving the impression
of warped discs.  If not corrected by freeing the bobbins, the discs can become warped.
Topic : Front Brake Discs Warped.

4.  You might also have seen a Topic ( there are several ) about the Ignition Switch Wiring
where it exits the base of the Ignition switch - The wires can get pulled tight when the handlebars
are turned to the right, and the semi rigid front brake pipe line can be pulled onto it,
eventually cutting through the wires.
Topic : Ignition Switch Wiring Failures.

Cheers 

[Wilko]

Hello Yellow jacket and 

If Coconut does not know, then anything about the bike is not worth worrying about.

Safe travels on your bike 

[rpeters549]

Cleaning those bobbins every few weeks seems like way overkill.  I ride year round in all weather and do that once a year.  Even then, it's odd that the CBR1100XX I was riding had these same bobbins and those never got cleaned and the brakes never had an issue.

Please, no bashing on that. 

As for the other items mentioned by Coconut (and the brake bobbins if you choose) , yes, keep an eye on them, but don't stress over it.  A phrase I use when training new people at work is 'Be careful, but not paranoid'.  I think the Triumph factory had regular grease shortages at the factory though.  Your initial service of those bearings and such will be the most important.

[PhilInAthens]

Yellow Jacket; You have selected a wonderful ride! 

Coconut hits on the possible mechanical issues you can mitigate.

I know you asked about "mechanical issues", however on the electrical side of things you can avoid a lot of 'gremlins' by keeping your bike on a battery tender.  If you're riding daily, or even weekly, no real worries. But, if you park it for a couple of weeks at a time, plug it in.   

[earthman]

In addition to basic maintenance and daily checks,
I would say that the four main things to look at are :

1.  Keep an eye on the Rear Suspension Unit lower bearings
as they are prone to corrosion - if they seize up it can result in a broken Drag Link.
Lubricate them ( Grease ) at least every year.
Topic : Drag Link failure - rear suspension assembly.

2.  The Gear Change Pedal Pivot Bolt, and to a lesser extent the Rear Brake Pivot Bolt
( Same part number ) are prone to seizing onto their shafts because of corrosion,
when the bolt then shears off !
Later Trophies seem less prone to this but it's well worth checking regularly that the pedals
move freely on their shafts.  If not, take them off, clean them and grease them.
Topic : Guide for Gear Lever Strip Down ?

3.  Keep the "Bobbins" free in the front Brake Discs - give them a squirt with Brake Cleaner
and spin them to remove built up brake pad dust etc every few weeks.
Failure to do so can result in the discs seizing on the bobbins, and giving the impression
of warped discs.  If not corrected by freeing the bobbins, the discs can become warped.
Topic : Front Brake Discs Warped.

4.  You might also have seen a Topic ( there are several ) about the Ignition Switch Wiring
where it exits the base of the Ignition switch - The wires can get pulled tight when the handlebars
are turned to the right, and the semi rigid front brake pipe line can be pulled onto it,
eventually cutting through the wires.
Topic : Ignition Switch Wiring Failures.

5. Drain and replace the oil in the drive shaft regularly over the years, Triumph state that that should only be done once in the bike's/drive shaft lifetime, personally I totally disagree with that, for the cost of a small amount of oil, it's foolhardy not to in my opinion.

[Yellow jacket]

All good suggestions. I will share these with my shop mechanic. Looking forward to the next trouble free 50k. Thanks.

[Coconut]

Yellow Jacket,

There's a #5 to add to my list :

Hopefully yours will have been updated, but it's still worth checking
that the Audio Software version has been updated to Version 1.04E.

The earlier version 1.04A for the US & Canadian Market ( with XM Satellite Radio )
had a bug that intermittently prevented the Audio system from closing down fully
when the Ignition was switched OFF, causing the main motorcycle battery to drain.

To check this on your Trophy, Turn the Ignition ON,
and make sure the Radio is OFF by pressing the Volume Down button
repeatedly until it says RADIO OFF.

Turn the Ignition OFF, and then back ON - wait until RADIO OFF is displayed,
then press and hold the "P" Button to get the Diagnostics screen, and select S/W Version.

It gives two lines of information :
"RADIO SW 1.04E"
"BB SW 0.17A"

IGNORE the "BB SW 0.17A"

If you have "RADIO SW 1.04A", you need to have it updated by a Dealer to Version 1.04E.

Cheers