Rear Shock repair/refurb

[Canes1]

Is it normal for the rear shock to go ? Also how do you know it needs replacing? Riding it, warning light, seat height, etc?

[H2nra]

I've got 90K on mine now and have had to replace the rear shock twice. The first time it was leaking oil from the seal and this was a week before a planned foreign tour so i had it replaced. The second time it simply lost all rear damping, this I think was gradual rather than a sudden failure but eventually like riding a po go stick jarring my back on some bumps. I also noticed that on startup the TSS calibration was occurring very frequently not just on the 50th time on or whatever the standard re calibration setting is.

I ride all weathers, all year and the seals failed leading to corrosion etc. This is despite regular cleaning and lubrication of the suspension joints. The only sure way to prevent it would be to stop riding it i guess..         

[1675]

I have a standard Trophy and mine lost all it's oil at around 75k. I knew it had gone as it was like riding a pogo stick the 1200 miles home. I took it to a local suspension specialist who was recommended but he couldn't get a damper rod. I was going to refurb the damper rod myself, or make  anew one but it had some aluminium (correct spelling!) valves in which weren't meant to come out, so I had to buy a new damper at £500.
Useful to know this one can be rebuilt if need be.

[Pea Fritter]

My rear shock failed on Friday (19/06/2020 2013 SE 33163 miles) while riding with the wife as pillion. The bike turned into a carousel horse ride or as others have said a pogo stick.

We managed to get home, a pool of oil on the garage floor as well as a very loose rear end, I can easily lift the rear wheel up by hand sure evidence the damping has gone !

Interesting that the TSE suspension adjusts ok and the orange warning light goes out, odd when you think the suspension has failed.

I will be contacting Firefox Racing in the morning.

Second thing I need to do is dismantle and remove the rear shock. Any tips or advice would be gratefully received. 

[Coconut]

Sorry to hear of this. 

Not a job I have had to tackle ( yet ! ),
but according to the Service Manual, it isn't too difficult a job.

Bike on the Centre stand, disconnect the Battery,
and place a block to support the Rear Brake disc.

Remove the Drag and Drop Links from the lower RSU mounting,
Right Hand Side panel, and Right hand "Control Plate" ( Footrest hanger plate ) are removed.
TES Power Control Module removed after noting the RSU wiring harness routing,
Fir Tree clip removed, TES Power Control Module bracket removed,
TES Motor detached from bracket, then bracket removed,
Upper RSU mounting nut and bolt removed ( new Nut required on refitting ),
Carefully manoeuvre the RSU and motor down through the swinging arm
noting the harness and hydraulic hose routing, and taking care
not to damage the Swinging Arm as it is withdrawn.

Cheers 

[digital]

Sorry, I had no news of this collapse.

After removing the shock absorber, take a look at the aluminum drive fuze. That it was not damaged.

[Coconut]

That's a good suggestion ......

"Drive Fuze" = Drag Link, at the bottom of the RSU 

While it's all dismantled check all of the Bearings, Sleeves and Seals
in the Drag and Drop Links for signs of corrosion or wear, and repalce as necessary.

[Pea Fritter]

Thanks Guys,

I was planning to service all the links while this is apart. My previous Trophy had handy grease nipples for that purpose, progress more like regress me thinks.