Sound system with the ignition key in parking mode

[digital]

Many of you will wonder why? of this addition / modification.

Some have asked me about this privately ...

First of all, to somehow take advantage of the position of the key in parking mode "I never made it work" so I did not see any use for it.

Second, because of my position at work, I spend many hours on the bike. So music makes it essential for me.

So, while I wait between note and repair note and do the reports next to the bike, I like to start the sound system and in this way, only the radio starts, not position lights that pull consumption of Battery.

First you should become familiar with how the Trophy's ignition key works ...

For example: The brown wire circulates voltage that goes directly from a 20A fuse and goes to the ignition key.

When we put the mentioned voltage in contact (engine stopped), it is transmitted to the blue / white wire that is for the headlights. At the same time, it also transmits voltage to the yellow cable, this last cable, gives tension to the peripherals of almost the entire motorcycle.

It should be noted that when starting the ignition (engine stopped). It also goes to the contact lead, another line from another fuse.
In other words, a voltage that runs from a 15A fuse circulates through the black / white cable when the ignition is switched on, this voltage is transmitted to the green / white cable. And it is only to start, position light, braking and horn.

So what happens when we put the ignition key in parking mode?

Well, only the position light, braking and horn starts, the latter is obvious if you press the horn button.

Once it is clear how all that electrical part of the motorcycle works, it is when you start working on what you want to do.

Well this is the area in which I have been working.

What I have done is cancel the part of the parking position, where you can see the scissors that cut the white/green cable.

But of course, what happens when you cut that cable? Well, we would run out of position lights, braking and horn, so that's where one of the relay contacts (RL1) works.

The thing is not so easy!!!

Because the parking mode, (brake light, position and horn) are started through the ignition key contacts, but obviously, they must also work when we turn on the contact, and even with the engine running.

So, I canceled the output voltage of the ignition key, of the green / white cable and I have diverted it through contact number 1 of the relay (RL1) and it goes to the other end of the green / white cable.

They will only start as soon as we turn on the ignition key. They will never start in parking mode again. (I've always seen that feature silly).

The next step is to see how the other part of the system works:

In park mode, the RL1 relay is in standby mode and the voltage coming from the 15A fuse goes directly to the green / white wire.

Remember that the position lights, braking, and horn no longer work this way, so the green / white wire will directly attack the positive and cathode of diode D2 and relay RL2.

At the same time, it will inject positive + 12V. to the green cable of the connector that is directly connected to the sound system and also to the electrical supply of some parts of the motorcycle, so that we can have the radio information on the screen and the buttons, volume, station changes, FM radio work, USB etc.

In this way, the sound team knows that we want it to work.

Between the R2 relay and the connector of the mentioned radio equipment, I have a diode D3 so that it does not return voltage + 12V. when we get out of parking mode.

The D3 and D4 are so that the voltage only circulates in one direction.

What does the RL2 relay do?

Good question, because I got lost there, since the part that disconnects the RL2 is very wide, but in the end I managed to deactivate the part that interested me, (alarm connector), part of the engine management (therefore, it is impossible to start the engine while in park mode), it also disconnects part of the instruments.

This is the end of the parking mode.

Now to finish this stage, I go to normal operation ...

When we turn on the ignition the following happens:

As I said at the beginning, the cable brown of the ignition key, it will give tension of +12 volts to the yellow wire, which is the one that interests us ...

This voltage will reach the positive of relay RL1 and the cathode leg of diode D1, thereby activating relay RL1.

Then, disconnect contact number two of relay RL1, so that it stops giving voltage to phase two.

At the same time, it connected contact number one of the same relay RL1 and supplied 12 volts voltage for position light, brake and horn.

Until then, everything goes back to work as it was originally.

To finish this project ...

I leave the scheme the same as the one mentioned above, but also another one that includes a remote control.

The difference is that, apart from starting with the ignition key, we can start the equipment from a long distance.

For example, at home I like to drink coffee sitting in a chair at a table that we have next to the door of the house, the motorcycle is a few meters away, so I can start and stop the stereo without problems.

As you can see in the diagram, it is exactly the same as the previous one, we only appreciate that we see that the RL1 relay now has three contacts, so contact number three, is only for the remote control module.

When the motorcycle stops and the key is not in the ignition, contact number two is in standby mode, so it always supplies power to the remote control module. (The consumption of the module hardly consumes a few mA) the battery does not appreciate it.

Then, pressing the button on the remote control gives a +12 volt voltage to the green positive wire of the RL2 relay I mentioned earlier.

Now the process remains the same as previously explained in the previous project.

To disconnect it, simply by pressing the same button again and everything returns to normal.

When we turn on the ignition key or start the engine, the RL1 relay becomes operational, so it will stop supplying +12 volt voltage to the remote control module.

In this case the remote control will be totally inoperative.

Electronic diagram to start the radio equipment with the ignition key in parking mode.


Electronic diagram to start the radio equipment with the ignition key in parking mode with remote control RF transmitter (433Mhz)


Yesterday Eloteq asked me the following question:
What do diodes do in relays? And where are they going? Thanks in advance.

I think with all this, the question is answered ...

The purpose of placing a diode in parallel with a relay is to avoid damaging some nearby components that are sensitive to high voltage, which is generated in the coil when current flow is interrupted.

The purpose of a particular diode is to allow the current flowing through the coil to continue to circulate when the relay is de-energized.
When the relay is activated by the coil, it passes to a current. No current flows through the diode because it is reverse biased

When the relay is off, the coil tries to maintain the current flow. Since there is no way for current to flow, a diode is placed in parallel and opposite the coil. With this, we can circulate the current through the diode and avoid voltage spikes that can damage other components of the circuit.

The positive is placed on the cathode and the negative on the anode.


Whoever likes to read and is curious, now here is how to distract yourself.

Cheers
Digital

[Eloteq]

 

What I good write up. It helps explain things better.

Thanks digital

[digital]

It's the least I can do, Eloteq.

Also to say that in these days so hard with the pandemic, I have been as if I were from the academy.

Locked up at home and going for the fourth day, it doesn't stop raining.

[Eloteq]

The help and advice is appreciated Digital and if it keeps you sane during this difficult time, then that’s good. I haven’t had chance to try your wiring diagram out yet but hopefully will get it done the weekend. At the moment I use the radio with the ignition turned on but I turn off the engine Cut off. This eliminates the petrol pump noise / power but I still have the abs light flashing etc. Obviously this way the side lights are still lit. Does your way turn everything off to the engine, pump etc.

Also, I wanted to ask you about EMI / RFI interference with LED lighting. I have changed my LED headlight bulbs to a better quality Philips X-tremeUltinon LED Gen2 H4 Bulbs which have emi filters. I have bought ferrite chockes and put them on my Switch back LED signal / day running light. But it has made no difference to the rfi.

Can the radio be powered from a clean 12v supply or something else added to clear up the emi noise in the power circuits.

This is a picture of the inside of the switchback bulbs:-

Originally Posted by digital

It's the least I can do, Elot.....

[Coconut]

The Power supply that is provided for the GPS may be the best one to try -
It is fed from the same circuit as the Trophy Audio system, and I believe it is a "Clean" supply.

The connector is below the left mirror pod, behind the fairing.
You can usually access it by just removing the Mirror surround panels
but it can be difficult to spot as it is taped up / hidden behind a Velcro strap
that secures a bunch of other wires. 

Image below ( Courtesy of Member "davybull" ) shows the Power Connector
above the end of Dave's finger ! It has it's Blanking Plug fitted -
a GPS Accessory Connector Kit is available to plug into the socket, Part Number A9930122 .
( The other one shown in the Photo is the NAV Audio input connector ) :



Cheers 

[digital]

Originally Posted by Coconut

The Power supply that is provided for the GPS may be the best one to try -
It is fed from the same circuit as the Trophy Audio system, and I believe it is a "Clean" supply.

The connector is below the left mirror pod, behind the fairing.
You can usually access it by just removing the Mirror surround panels
but it can be difficult to spot as it is taped up / hidden behind a Velcro strap
that secures a bunch of other wires. 

Image below ( Courtesy of Member "davybull" ) shows the Power Connector
above the end of Dave's finger ! It has it's Blanking Plug fitted -
a GPS Accessory Connector Kit is available to plug into the socket, Part Number A9930122 .
( The other one shown in the Photo is the NAV Audio input connector ) :



Cheers 

No, Coconut, don't connect there, unless you put a relay on it.

That power source is poor in amps and could overheat and either something break down or the fuse blows, due to a demand from the light bulbs that need more amps than what that plug will give.

That connector comes directly from an output of the sound equipment. GPS uses little energy and supports well, but light bulbs do not.

[digital]

Originally Posted by Eloteq

The help and advice is appreciated Digital and if it keeps you sane during this difficult time, then that’s good. I haven’t had chance to try your wiring diagram out yet but hopefully will get it done the weekend. At the moment I use the radio with the ignition turned on but I turn off the engine Cut off. This eliminates the petrol pump noise / power but I still have the abs light flashing etc. Obviously this way the side lights are still lit. Does your way turn everything off to the engine, pump etc.

Also, I wanted to ask you about EMI / RFI interference with LED lighting. I have changed my LED headlight bulbs to a better quality Philips X-tremeUltinon LED Gen2 H4 Bulbs which have emi filters. I have bought ferrite chockes and put them on my Switch back LED signal / day running light. But it has made no difference to the rfi.

Can the radio be powered from a clean 12v supply or something else added to clear up the emi noise in the power circuits.

This is a picture of the inside of the switchback bulbs:-

Eloteq, afterwards I will carefully analyze your questions, now I am taking advantage of the fact that it is not raining to finish what I started the other day. I want to finish it, since tomorrow I need the bicycle to make several orders.

[Coconut]

The question asked was :

Can the radio be powered from a clean 12v supply ..... ?

... not asking for a Power supply for Lighting 

The fuse for the circuit that the GPS Power supply is on
( Front Fuse Box, Fuse No.3 ) is rated at 10 Amps,
so it will of course depend on the current draw of the radio being connected,
along with anything else connected to the same circuit ( GPS / USB etc ),
as to whether the circuit is overloaded or not.