Fuse adapter

[Ridefree]

Hello,

I am getting ready to install this light onto the rear of my TTSE.

https://www.customdynamics.com/integrated-3-section-led-light-bar?cat=423

I have read a lot of articles about errors with cruise control canceling out if running lights attached.  I read another person connected to the rear power receptacle wire.  I want to know if anyone used a fuse adapter.  If so, what is the best slot?  It seems the rear auxiliary socket makes good sense and cleaner than splicing the wire.  Any concerns with adding a 10amp adapter at this location?

Thanks

Here is an example.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/littelfuse-mini-add-a-circuit-card-0fhm0200zp/12024924-p?product_channel=local&store=6223&adtype=pla&product_channel=local&store_code=6223&gclid=CjwKCAjw8df2BRA3EiwAvfZWaDBUn28Bzbh2zcQZ6FR5KmRCggaOQig8Z_uTmycNdx9VdEnRQE-oCBoCTNsQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

[digital]

The system is designed to attach one wire to the parking light wire, another wire to the stop light, another wire to the left turn light wire, another wire to the right turn light, and the other wire to chassis (ground).

Therefore, when working all those cables with positives, I would need 4 independent fuses. So I see no need to put a fuse, since each cable that will be attached already carry their own fuses.

In addition, that strip of LEDs hardly have consumption.

Connecting the cables of that led strip attached to each cable of the rear connector of the Trophy. It does not have to affect the cruise control system.

Another thing would be if you install the stop light flash warning system when you lower the throttle.

Nor does it usually turn off the cruise control.

[Merritt64]

You could use the fuse adapter but it's not going to save you from making a splice for power.  The fuse adapter would provide power to the red wire (constant power on the wiring diagram).  Even that wire is going to have to be spliced from the adapter to the red wire.  You are still going to have to splice or tap into the remaining wires to make the product work.  I'm not sure what Digital was trying to point out but there isn't any need to put 4 fuses inline with the other splices.  You can use the posi taps but I wouldn't.  They aren't moisture proof at all.  I just installed a light bar on my bike yesterday.  Spliced the unit in with solder splices.  It is moisture proof, permanent and tidy if done correctly.  As Digital pointed out, the power consumption is negligible and won't interfere with your current system.  Hope this helps.

[Ridefree]

Thanks, I appreciate the advice.  The package came with posi - taps and I planned to use first and determine if any gremlins pop up. 

[CAM]

Digital was very clear that you do not need to fuse this bar, simply connect the wires to the bikes tail and signal lights. Since the taps are done in a dry environment, the posi taps are the perfect simple solution.

[Merritt64]

Having installed a light bar yesterday, I would argue that it is not in a dry environment.  I would even go so far to say that there are few dry environments on a motorcycle.  Using the positaps to see if any gremlins pop up is a fine idea but I would never use them as a finished solution in any situation.  I don't think that they provide a compact, professional installation.  They are useful for those that are intimidated by wiring, splicing etc. (and no I am not insinuating that applies to you CAM) but I would never use them.  YMMV.

[digital]

Indeed, the best thing is to solder the cables directly to the existing ones, which in total are 4, plus mass (chassis) and being able to be the best is to put a heat shrink sleeve, there does not enter water or moisture.

[CAM]

When I installed the light bar on the trunk lid I tapped the bikes wiring directly behind the rear light which is a very dry though dusty area, on my bike anyway. Been good for 5 years now through some pretty wet weather. The only wires I have ever soldered on a bike are the Stator to RR wires as they run high current thus lots of heat and are known on many models to melt OEM connectors. When bike manufacturers build wire looms, they most often use a crimp type joint when splicing into another wire though I have no idea why they do that as opposed to soldering the splice. I think the posi type of connector has become the standard that accessory manufacturers can add to kits for a quick installation by those who possibly do not own soldering tools and they rule out the likelihood of cold solder joints by inexperienced installers.
But at the end of the day, whatever works for each of us is the way to go.