My Anti Gravity battery provides 360 CCA compared to my stock battery at 135...thats more power....its 4. 5 x 3. 25 x 4. 25-in . thats smaller than the stock battery...it weighs 2.25 lbs..thats lighter than the stock battery..so yeah, more power in a smaller package just as I said.
I cant speak for 2slow but on one of my trips last year it was 18f when we pulled out of the hotel in the morning... the bike cranked a little slower than it did when its 50 but it fired right up and I never got the impression that it was going to be problem .
(I know better than to argue on the internet, but...

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Trophy OEM battery is 12v 20aH - a quick search on Amazon shows the Battery Tender BTX20 - 330CCA (at 0F), 14lbs.
I looked up Anti Gravity's site and motorcycle batteries, and the ATX20 shows as 4lbs, 680 Cranking Amps and 20 Amp Hours (PbEq)/ 10Ah (Actual), and a replacement for 20aH SLA-type batteries. (There's no CCA listed for any of them, as Li doesn't crank well when cold - that's why they say when it's cold to let the bike sit for 20-30 seconds with the key on to warm it up a bit. There's also no battery listed for our Trophy.) Same size, and when warm you can pull a lot of crank out of it for less weight. From the case size, though, I'm guessing you have the AG-1201 - that's 360CA in a 8aH (16 equivalent) and is the exact dimensions you mentioned. So, same performance in a smaller size/weight/aH battery.
So, what you're describing is having a smaller capacity battery that's more efficient at powering a high-draw load (starting), at a much higher price. (12v 20aH SLA - about $50. ATX20 - $300, AG-1201 $200.).
(Deep breath...)
Now, let's stop just comparing numbers and think about what we *need*.
- CCA - high-amp load capacity (eg. starter) at 0F (or -20C). Listed for SLA/AGM. Anyone need this? Doubtful, which is why the Li battery CA (and their workaround for cold) is fine. ("Need" is 300+ CA - push button, engine spin, make noise, zoom zoom. More is nice, but 300 to work and have reserve, in case you stall it once or twice before it gets charged back up from riding.)
- Less weight up high on the bike - a good thing. Only 8 lbs change? Not significant, but every little bit helps.
- Lots more money? Bad, but everything is so much more expensive for bike vs car - if you aren't used to it, you should probably start (especially before you go shopping for BMW's). Let's not even bring up $300 tires that last 10k miles vs. my truck's tires that last 50k miles and cost $200

- Real trade-off (besides price) is an lower actual capacity for low-draw loads (like "oops - I left my key on all weekend in the garage"). For us, that's probably a fair trade, since we don't tend to do those low-draw activities like a car might (say, sitting in the parking lot at the store listening to the radio while your SO runs inside "just for a second".) For either battery, if you do that and run it absolutely dead, it's probably shot. If you catch it with 4-5v left, you can probably save it. Either way, you'll only forget that key once

For me, when it comes time to replace my OEM battery, I may move to lithium, even though most of my riding starts in chilly temps - 40s daily all summer, 30s spring and fall. Making this less top-heavy would be nice, even a little. Having to spend a lot more, plus a lithium charger (which I don't have) would be painful. Locally, good 20aH AGM are just under $100 from a battery specialist, probably cheaper elsewhere. They have PowerSonic "18aH" LiFePo4 (actually 9aH) for $180, and chargers are $50-ish. (Strangely, their 5aH ("14aH PbEq") is the same case size and weight - weird, or possibly a wrong description.)
My guess is I'll replace it with whatever is available when I need it, and if I have the extra ~$150 it'll be the lithium.
Finally, if you're concerned over CCA because you're riding at -20C, please send us a video - I want to see that

