Power Distributor

[Canes1]

About to install a Denali power hub, that I plan on running my drl's, brake light system and whatever other accessories to.
Wanted to know what is the best (and hopefully convenient)  switched wire on the bike to connect to?

[digital]

Depending on where you leave it installed, or the desire you have to pass cables. You could take directly the black cable to the negative of the battery and the red cable also directly to the positive of the battery.

I want to think that the Denali has its own input fuse. Therefore, you already have a thing done.

Next, you need to bring the yellow wire to +12 volts after the key. You could, take it from the same connector that gives it a voltage of +12 volts and that goes to the lighter, located in the glove compartment, or in the connector that is under the left mirror and that is used for powering the GPS.

Once this is done, you can connect any peripherals installed by you to the Denali outputs.

The Denali has direct +12 volt outputs and others that will give +12 volts after turning on the ignition.

[Canes1]

Thanks digital. Will probably connect switched wire to gps wire, which I recently installed and yes, the power hub has it's own fuse.
Will also be running any accessories in switched mode.

[digital]

Perfect!

I've never seen a Denali, but yes, I figured it should have an input fuse. It is best to connect the black and red cable to the battery, since to connect peripherals you will need enough amps.

[Canes1]

Was told by Twisted Throttle ( a Denali seller) to cut out the inline fuse for the Denali DRL's,  connect to the power hub in switched mode and use a 2 amp fuse in the hub.
Skene rear brake light, said the same.

Planning on installing hub under seat, where med kit goes (didn't have one anyway) with plenty of cable to reach battery, along with the Skene Decelerometer, which is very small.

[digital]

Finally, I think I understand that you install the hub so as not to carry so many cables to the battery, in fact, the denali is to fulfill that function, right?

I have so many cables running from one side of the motorcycle to the other. That in the end I had to make the decision to look for something that prevents me from passing more cables from the front of the bike to the front.

The solution was to start testing with a 2-relay wireless RF transmitter node. Currently, I have installed 3 modules of 4 relays each, plus the first module of 2 relays.

That is, a total of 14 relays that I control from the front of the bicycle to 14 optional peripherals.

What surprised me about these types of modules is that they work well and do not fail.

For example, with 2 remote controls, which includes each module. One of each remote control is always installed on the motorcycle and they take voltage from the motorcycle itself, so I forget to replace the batteries of the controls to substance.

With the replacement remote controls, I have only one and can turn on the fault indicators, the stereo, sound amplifiers and the DAB + U. You can be a few meters away and put the mentioned into operation.

[tdragger]

If you are installing the hub under the seat, you can tap into the tail light circuit nearby in the tail.  One less wire running up to the front over the engine.

[Canes1]

Good idea, thanks. Have to tap the skene brake light system into the the brake light wire anyways, maybe keep things a little more tidy!