Fuse Block, Driving Lights, New Horns, GPS Mounted on Dash, etc.

[kirkkw]

Fuse Block, Driving Lights, New Horns, GPS Mounted on Dash, Powered Tank Bag all in one thread, going for broke.

First time I have ever had the skin off the Trophy. It's pretty new to me - a 2017 SE.  Never performed any service other than adding gasoline and air in tires. I am a total newby--- but here we go. 

I got the GPS with Sat radio installed so far using the Triumph power patch wiring.  That made it simple.


Next is the Eastern Beaver PC-8 Fuse Panel/block.  I decided the best place for this fuse panel is under the seat.  I want to keep bike's wiring as clean and unmolested as possible.  There is a tremendous amount of electronics and thus wires in the front end of the bike.  I just couldn't see adding to the mess.  My goal is to have the least number of interactions with the bikes electrical system as possible so I plan to run all my modifications through this fuse block.

I purchased a wiring harness from Eastern Beaver to power the fuse block, but failed to get the leads long enough to reach from the battery to under the seat so I had the cut the leads to the battery and splice in longer sections. 

You can see my yellow splices as the wires are resting on the battery.



First question: the leads are 12 gauge wire.  However, I am using 600 volt commercial A/C wire versus automotive wire for these splices.  Since the wires will be inside a protective cover and zipped tied in place does anyone foresee problems with the use of this wire instead of automotive wire?

Under the seat I notched the plastic reinforcements where the "D" lock would sit.  I plan to use the rubber strap to hold the Fuse block in place. 

[kirkkw]

I plan to run the fuse block and horn wires down the right side of the bike and the driving light harness and tank back power wires on the left side. 

I have drilled holes in the front end of plastic tray (where the fuse block is located under the seat) to allow the wires to exit that tray area.  I failed to get pictures of those holes. 

Here is a picture of the fuse block and the wiring harness with relay.



I plan to use the tail light as the relay trigger.  I believe the wire is Yellow.  Is that correct?

My main power wires are routed external of the frame but inside the right side of the gas tank.



I am thinking of routing the wires inside the seat front support and between the rear subframe top piece and the fuel tank?  Is my metal magnetic bowl sitting on top of the lower section of the fuel tank?



Should I keep the wiring outside of the frame or run it inside the subframe?  I don't want to create access problems when its time to change the air filter or adjust the valves or other such maintenance.

[digital]

The only thing is that I would have inserted the red and black cable inside a cover since when passing through the chassis of the motorcycle, it could get caught, pinch the red cable between the fairing and make a leak or short circuit. For the rest, I see it well protected and well done.

If the cables are tied with ties by that wide bar of the frame, they do not get in the way when you have to replace the filter etc.

[kirkkw]

Definitely, wire will be protected.  I have three different types of wire wrap/covering.  The wires are just laying on the bike for illustrative purposes. 

By my estimation, I will have about 12 individual wires routed from under the seat to the frontal area of the bike, so to keep if from looking and being a rat's will be important.  The volume of wires is why I will route some on the right side of the bike and others on the left side.     

[kirkkw]

So should I route the wire external to the frame but under the skin or inside the seat front support and between the rear subframe and the underseat glove box and rear of portion of the gas tank?





Inside or outside of frame? Number one or two.  Will ONE interfere with air filter replacement or valve adjust process?

[digital]

Originally Posted by kirkkw

So should I route the wire external to the frame but under the skin or inside the seat front support and between the rear subframe and the underseat glove box and rear of portion of the gas tank?

Everything that can be put under the seat better. But ... Once at the height of the square or the rear block of the fuel tank, you must go outside. This makes it easy to remove the fuel tank without having to remove the cables.

From inside the seat, at the height of the sound system drawer, there is enough room for the cables to come out, skirting the slim frame on the right fuses and from there jumping to the top frame to reach the battery.

Originally Posted by kirkkw

Inside or outside of frame? Number one or two.  Will ONE interfere with air filter replacement or valve adjust process?

Always outside the frame, in the case of removing the motor it would complicate the lives of the mechanics and they do not hesitate to cut the cables.

[kirkkw]

Fuse Block wiring

[kirkkw]

Driving lights diagram.  The driving lights will be connected through a Skene controller which will turn them to 20% power when the headlight is dimmed.  They will also be routed through a relay thereby allowing me to turn off the lights if desired.  The lights relay will be powered through the fuse block.

This wiring harness, controller and relay will also be under the seat.  So that this point I will have the fuse block & associated relay plus the Skene controller and related relay all under the seat. 

The is a switch blank on the left side below the seat, I presume for heated seats.  I will install a marine rated switch there to be able to separately turn the lights on/off.



The driving lights will require 4 wires to extend from under the seat to the front: 1. power to lights, 2. ground for lights, 3. high beam trip wire, 4. yellow wire from controller.

I am tying all grounds to the fuse block because that is the advice from Easter Beaver.