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Offline Coconut

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HOW TO: Remove the Top Box Lock Barrel ( at last ! )
« on: September 11, 2020, 09:35:17 PM »
First of all - try other methods described within the Forum,
which mainly involve the use of a "Pick" type tool inserted into the Keyhole of the Lock
to try and engage with an elusive "Locking Wafer" buried at the deepest part of the Barrel !

It is this Locking Wafer that holds the Barrel inside the Cylinder.

It IS possible to remove the Barrel using the "Pick" method - I've done it myself,
but sometimes the Locking wafer just doesn't want to play !  :157:

A professional Locksmith may have more luck with one of their Picks,
than trying to make one yourself !

If the Barrel just won't come out, another method ( and the one used by Triumph Dealers )
is to DRILL the Lock Barrel out.  This is quite a brutal solution, and will often result in damage
being caused to the Cylinder in which the Barrel is located.
This will then require replacement of the complete Top Box Carcass !

If all else has failed, and you want to get the Lock Barrel out, the following method WILL work,
but will take an hour or two, and needs some attention to detail. :084:

As with any advice I offer in this Forum - Use it at your own risk !

The first hurdle to overcome is to separate the two halves of the Top Box Base.

Fortunately this task has already been described, complete with Video, in another Topic here :

Top Box separating inner case from outer ......

Basic instructions :

Remove coloured Lid ( 5 x "T20 Torx" screws, noting the lower central screw
has both a washer  and a rubber washer fitted ). Put the lid somewhere safe.

Remove the 4 nuts ( 8mm socket or spanner ) from the hinges, along with
the two strengthening plates, and remove the lid.  Put the Lid somewhere safe.

Remove the 7 x T20 Torx screws around the upper edge of the Top Box Base,
and the further 7 x T20 Torx screws from the bottom of the Base.
( All the screws are the same length so don't worry about mixing them up ! ).

There is no need to remove the plate from the underside of the Base which covers
the electrical connection and it's Locking Lever, or any of the screws from the underside.

Next is, in my view, the difficult part of heating the Base up to soften the glue
holding the two halves together.  Take your time and be careful - if you are too forceful you
can end up bending or breaking some of the plastic tabs around the inner edges that help hold
the two haves together when assembled, but I still found that a LOT of force was needed
to pull the two halves apart, after quiet a lot of heating with a Heat gun.
Be prepared for painful trapped fingers as you try to pry them apart !

Once separated, unplug the wires from the Accessory Socket and put that half to one side.  :028:

Now we can start to access the lock. 
I suggest and recommend taking lots of Photo's as you work,
so you can refer back to them if you forget how something fits etc !

Have the Key in the Lock, release the handle and lift it up to the horizontal position.

This Photo shows the panel in which the Lock is fitted, and which can be partially removed :

Remove these 5 screws ( Sorry I missed one off the Photo !  :138: ) :

The Panel can now be eased away carefully, over the raised handle,
and tilted so that the back of the lock area can be accessed.
( The Panel can't be completely removed without further dismantling,
and it is not necessary to do so ).

Study the back of the Lock carefully to see the components, and where they fit / locate.
The silver "Cam Plate" rotates when the key is turned, and at the fully unlocked position,
( where the Handle would be released ) it comes into contact with the raised end of a spring, which
helps it to return from the "Handle Release" position to the Unlocked position when the Key is released.
A Ball bearing under spring pressure acts upon the underside of part of the Cam Plate
to act as a Detent for various Key Positions :

Carefully remove the Allen bolt from the centre of the Cam Plate.
Mine was quite tight - try to avoid straining the components by holding
( or have an assistant hold ) the Cam Plate with Pliers to stop it from turning.
As the Bolt is undone the Cam Plate will rise up from the spring pressure
on the Detent Ball Bearing - recover the Ball Bearing as it is freed ( a Magnet is useful )
and also recover the spring underneath it.

Put the Bolt and its washer to one side, and study the now exposed brass part ( "Brass Dog" ),
that the Bolt had been screwed into.  Note its position and that one corner of the
square shape is missing - to ensure correct fitting onto the Cam Plate upon re-assembly :

With the Key still in the lock - note the position of the Key hole relative to its position in its housing.

The complete lock Cylinder with Barrel can now be pushed / withdrawn outwards,
and removed from the Top Box.  Again - note the shape and how it fits back into the Top Box.

Examining the Lock Barrel & Cylinder assembly you can now see that  :172: Locking Wafer !

Depress the Locking Wafer with the tip of a screwdriver, and you can then withdraw the Barrel.
Note that the "Brass Dog" is a separate part - don't remove it from the Cylinder.,
and ensure that after separation from the Lock Barrel, it is not rotated in the Cylinder,
otherwise it will not line up with the Cam Plate when re-assembled.  :138:

Take the NEW Lock Barrel - with Key inserted, and start to push it into the Cylinder,
in the same orientation as the Barrel you just removed.  As the Barrel begins to enter
the Cylinder, the Locking Wafer will snag against the wall of the Cylinder,
and will need to be depressed with a thin screwdriver or similar tool. 

Push the Barrel all the way in, ensuring it lines up and engages with the Brass Dog -
Push the Barrel in until it Clicks into place and the Locking Wafer can be seen
to be holding it in place.  Check that you can turn the key and that the lock Barrel moves
in the Cylinder as you would expect. Use the Key to return the lock to the Unlocked position.

Reassemble the Cam Plate : Put the Detent Ball Bearing spring in its tube,
and sandwich the ball bearing between the spring and the Cam Plate.
( This is fiddly and there's a risk of dropping and losing the Ball Bearing -
If you can support the assembly horizontally the Ball Bearing will sit on top of the Spring
allowing you to carefully place the Cam Plate over it and press it down onto the end of the Brass Dog,
lining up that cut away corner shape.  Holding the Cam Plate down in position,
ensuring the Ball Bearing under spring pressure doesn't escape, refit the Allen Bolt ( with washer )
and tighten - again holding the Cam Plate with Pliers or similar to prevent straining the components.

Once the Cam Plate has been refitted, use the Key to check for correct operation,
and then return the lock to the Unlocked position.

The Lock panel assembly now needs to be fitted back to the Top Box.

The Peg protruding from the Cam Plate has to be engaged with the curved slot in the Locking Bar
shown in this Photo :

The Locking Bar will probably have fallen down too low for the Cam Plate to engage -
Note that the Locking Bar moves when the Handle is moved, and that you can also raise
the Locking Bar just by lifting it up with your fingers. ( It will actually lift all the way out ! ).

Once the Cam Plate Peg has engaged with the Locking Bar slot, the complete panel
can be positioned over the Handle, and the securing screws replaced.

With the five Lock Panel screws refitted, check again that the Lock works as it should.

Before reassembling the Top Box base inner and outer halves, clean out all the old glue
from the grooves and ridges using a suitable tool, and decide whether you are going to
use fresh glue ( I didn't re-glue mine ).

Secure the two Base halves with the 14 Torx screws, refit the lid with strengthening plates
and the four nuts, then refit the coloured lid with the 5 Torx screws making sure
the one with the washer and rubber washer goes back into the lower central hole.

Go and have a well deserved cup of Tea, or better still .....  :030:

I haven't tried this method on a Pannier ( yet ) but I suspect that the process will be similar,
where the two halves will be glued together and need heat to be applied to pull them apart
once the screws have been removed.

I also suspect that the complete cylinder cannot be removed from a Pannier,
as I believe the Cylinder is part of the carcass moulding,  and that the Locking wafer
will be accessible directly once the Cam Plate has been removed.

As and when I try this, I will update this Topic accordingly !

Cheers  :821:

Offline 1675

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Re: HOW TO: Remove the Top Box Lock Barrel ( at last ! )
« Reply #1 on: September 12, 2020, 08:21:30 AM »
You truly are the master of this operation. When can I come down to have mine done?????

Offline Coconut

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Re: HOW TO: Remove the Top Box Lock Barrel ( at last ! )
« Reply #2 on: September 12, 2020, 08:25:40 AM »
The weather’s looking good on Monday !

.... I haven’t taken a Pannier apart though ( yet ),
only the Top Box !

Online digital

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Re: HOW TO: Remove the Top Box Lock Barrel ( at last ! )
« Reply #3 on: September 12, 2020, 12:21:25 PM »
Yes, I disassembled to repair the right saddlebag that I have as a spare and took the opportunity to install the sensor for the blind spot radar to change lanes.

The method of disassembling the saddlebag is the same as the TopCase, that is, with the black rubber silicone. But the advantage is that they only have a glob of silicone in the center and that makes it easier to disassemble.

Here are some photos:

Only motorcyclists know why dogs stick their head out the car window.