Rear Wheel Studs - Dimensions & Alternative ?

[spl383]

Originally Posted by Coconut

Personally, I would never recommend doing that -
it will definitley have compromised the strength.

Either the lug nut or the stud had to be re threaded. There was no other option, I was 2 weeks away from heading on a 4,000 mile week long trip. 

[Coconut]

I might consider it in an emergency if there was no other option,
but would want to sort it "properly" as soon as possible,
and would be VERY wary of riding with it like that thousands of miles later.

The problem is with the amount of material that is removed from the 1.25 pitch threads,
when you cut a 1.5 pitch thread on top of them, as I have tried to demonstrate
in this very basic drawing - The dotted lines of the purple image shows the missing
material where the 1.5 pitch thread shoud be :

[STJIM]

+1

I would have called ARP and attempted to have them send me a free "sample".   I have never done that before, but I hear it's not uncommon and sometimes works if you catch the person you are talking to in a good mood.

[darmah59]

Using liberal amounts of anti-seize not only the threads but also the mounting faces of the wheel and the taper on the nuts is always good insurance as due to their location they are very susceptible to corrosion. Hard to understand how anyone could snap the studs unless they where grossly over torqued during assembly.

[Coconut]

Here are my personal thoughts on using Grease on Wheel Studs / Wheel ( Lug ) Nuts :

DON'T !

My reasoning is firstly that I trust the manufacturer of my motorcycle to know more
about these things than I do - and they don't call for them to be greased.

The 70 NM specified for tightening the Wheel Nuts,
is with the Studs and Nuts free from any Grease.

Grease applied to the Wheel stud / nuts will result in them being
tightened MORE, in the rotational sense, when using a Torque wrench set to 70 NM
due to the lubrication and reduced friction from the applied of grease.

I don't want to risk over-tightening my nuts <  >
with the possibility of over-stretching the Studs,
or damaging the softer Aluminium hub into which they are screwed.

I would also be concerned that the addition of Grease might contribute
to the Wheel nuts working loose while riding.

I fully appreciate that other's may disagree and do things differently,
these are just my own personal thoughts. 

[darmah59]

Agree completely, the OEM knows best for sure. What they are after is clamp load, that comes from torque applied to the pitch of the threads. Problem arises as they do this testing with new parts that are lubricated. As the bolts and stud age and get dry and corroded the clamp load goes down a lot, and if you use a torque wrench there is little danger of breaking or stripping anything.

Also grease is the wrong thing to use, this is for high pressure rotation not for corrosion protection, as it will harden and cake over time making things worse. Need to use anti-seize which will dry to a thin film just like when they are new.

[STJIM]

After looking at this chart, it looks to me like the 50 ft-lb torque spec for the 10 mm rear wheel nuts assumes lubricated, not dry threads :

   ]www.gtsparkplugs.com/bolt-torque-chart-metric.html]

[earthman]

Here's a good visual representation on how much higher the clamping force could become if you use a substance on a bolt when you really shouldn't.