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Offline R1der851

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Re: No idle no start
« Reply #8 on: April 08, 2021, 03:30:23 am »
Today didn't bring any resolution. To get the engine to start I had to remove the air filter. Things only get slightly better as the bike warms up. Air filter back in, removing the rubber hose to the MAP sensor will get the bike started. It still will not idle.

I did ride the bike a little and the fuel gauge did start to register again. Low speed throttle is not great. Never got out of 2nd gear.

Does anyone know if the bike will adapt by riding it or does it have to sit at idle?

Offline Leanover

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Re: No idle no start
« Reply #9 on: April 08, 2021, 06:16:27 am »
With these problems riding the bike will not help. Does the bike show a MAP sensor fault? If the cam chain is louder than you would like, I would be tempted to start again and check the timing and that every thing is as it should be. I use tuneecu software and It can run in real time you should be able to see any faults that are thrown up when you try to start the bike. When the battery is removed or the adaptation reset the bike starts and revs to 3000 ish RPM and then will slowly reduce. My bike lost about 1.5 l of oil during the service,  have you checked the oil since the service.

Offline Coconut

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Re: No idle no start
« Reply #10 on: April 08, 2021, 07:57:01 am »
This probably won't help with the problems you have,
but to carry out the engine adaption process :

Start the engine from COLD - WITHOUT touching the throttle.
Allow the engine to run until the cooling fans start.
Let the engine run for a further 12 minutes then turn the engine off.

It is a good idea to remove the Fuse for the Headlamp during this process
to ensure it does not overheat and melt the plastic !


Offline R1der851

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Re: No idle no start
« Reply #11 on: April 08, 2021, 12:09:54 pm »
Yes Leanover the P0108 is for the MAP sensor, that had been unplugged while the bike was running along with every sensor attached to the airbox. Their codes came up as well.
Coconut, I had all the sensors unplugged and the air filter removed. Started the engine. It idled and I started plugging things back in. Got everything back together and the rpms started fluctuating. Eventually it settled at 1000 rpms but I didn't let it idle the additional 12 minutes after the fans kicked on. If the MIL (engine) light is out on the dash, do you think the bike is adapting?
Thanks

Offline Leanover

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Re: No idle no start
« Reply #12 on: April 08, 2021, 01:02:05 pm »
No it's not adapting.  Plugging the sensors in with the bike running isn't the best idea.  If the bike won't start with the MAP sensor is connected that could be the problem.  Remove the battery for 4 hours or more or reset the adaption ( tuneecu dealer tool ) and try to start the bike with all sensors connected make sure all the sensors are connected before you reconnect the battery. 

Offline Yaga1973

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Re: No idle no start
« Reply #13 on: April 08, 2021, 01:10:21 pm »
Computers really don't like things being unplugged and plugged back in while the engine is running or with KOEO situations. You run the risk of frying components, including the computer. Unless the manual says to plug/unplug components during a test, then I highly advise against it.

Do the battery reset, plug everything back in, and let the computer do it's thing. Let us know what you find out.  :002:
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Offline R1der851

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Re: No idle no start
« Reply #14 on: April 08, 2021, 06:08:39 pm »
Thanks for the suggestions. Unhooked the battery. Going to step away from the bike today. I don't have any software to talk to the ECU. I know an electrical engineer that may have something if it comes to that. Will update Friday.

Offline digital

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Re: No idle no start
« Reply #15 on: April 08, 2021, 11:25:09 pm »
I've missed something ...

When phasing the camshafts, you must make sure that it is fully synchronized and that the sprocket marks are fully aligned.

That is, apparently even if the sprockets are aligned the first time and inserting the Triumph tool or the head of a drill bit into the crankshaft hole. It is seen that they are aligned, it should not be trusted, since when fixing the motir manually or starting the engine, the timing chain hits a stretch and sits well on the sprockets. But...

It is possible that the alignment that you saw was correctly aligned, now it is no longer aligned, if you do not make sure that the camshaft phasing is not fully aligned. It can cause an engine catastrophe that would make it cheaper to replace a new engine. You can also lose control of your motorcycle and have an accident.

What should be done when we make a valve adjustment and camshaft phasing ???

Once we have checked the 6 exhaust valves and the 6 intake valves, if any segment has been replaced, etc, etc. We will have to check the camshaft phasing with the alignment of their marks and if it is necessary to adjust the sprockets by loosening as indicated in the workshop manual. Once this is done, its screws must be replaced, a total of 4 screws.

When the first time you see that the sprockets are fully aligned by their markings, you must insert the head of the Triumph drill bit or tool into the hole in the crankshaft.

Next, we take out the bit and turn the motor until we see the toothed wheels that are properly aligned again, we insert the bit again and verify that it is correct, again we remove the bit and turn the motor again to do it again. the same check. Ideally, do this sequence a minimum of three or four times so that the chain is correctly positioned and does not jump to another point on the sprocket.

To do this process, there is a Triunph tensioner and a Torque wrench, which is ideal for the chain to be correctly tensioned. There is also another tool to lock the camshafts. All these tools are well explained in the workshop manual.

On the other hand, having half the motorcycle disassembled, it is ideal to check the throttle sensor and the throttle setting, for this you must remove all the connectors that you have mentioned and put the fuel tank, but do not enter the tank completely housing, the rear part of the fuel tank can be supported, more or less above the glove compartment of the radio equipment. and so you can enter tools, in case it is necessary to make adjustments to the aforementioned. The battery left it on the ground and extended some cables to the positive and negative.

You mentioned that the revolutions fluctuate, an adjustment of the throttles could be necessary, despite not having the connectors in place, the revolutions must remain fixed without any fluctuation.
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