Swap Ignition Switches between Trophys - Possible?

[tdragger]

My 2015 TTSE has been my rally bike for several years.  I recently bought a low-mileage 2016 TTSE to replace it.  I've moved all my bags from the old to the new which, of course, has left me with 2 sets of keys.  Obviously, I'd like to get that back to one set.

Right now the 2015 key operates the panniers and the top case.  The 2106 key operates the ignition, fuel cap and seat release.  I saw the excellent tutorial on replacing the fuel cap barrel and I assume that the seat release barrel will be similar.  My question is in regards to the ignition switch.  Changing the entire switch should not be much of a problem, however, does the ECU or Immobilizer need to be reprogrammed with the new keys?  If so, how is that done?  I have both DealerTool and TigerTool softwares.

NOTE: Swapping the panniers and top case barrels is not an option as I do not have the barrel for the 2016 bike (not in the tool kit).

[Coconut]

You could physically change the complete Ignition lock relatively easily -
I think you have to drill out the retainiing security "shear" bolts,
and replace them with new ones ( T3330324 ).

The Keys WOULD then need to be programmed in to the ECU,
and currently, as far as I am aware, this can ONLY be done
using the Triumph Dealer's diagnostic software,
as the function is not avaiable in DealerTool or TigerTool.

[sin_tiger]

If I understand correctly, what you're trying to do is have the bags from your original bike on the new bike with the goal of having one key operate everything on the new bike

If you remove the lock barrels on the boxes, I'd have to go out and double check in the morning how easy it is, and take them to a decent locksmith, they will be able to "repin" the barrels to suit the new bike key for not a lot of cash, it's just time.

Think yourself lucky there are only 3 barrels for the complete luggage system on the TTSE compared to the old T300's which had 9  , if you counted the cubby covers there are 14 barrels on those bikes 

[Coconut]

Yes, that's another option - removing the Lock barrels from the top Box and Panniers IS possible,
and once out the Wafers can be changed ( if you can find a Locksmith with the correct parts )
to match the Key on the new bike.

This Topic describes how to get the Lock barrels out :

HOW TO: Remove the Top Box Lock Barrel ( at last ! )

Cheers 

[digital]

Another good option is to disassemble the key cylinders of your choice and code them yourself. Any cylinder can be coded without problem.

I managed to replace the suitcase cylinders by pulling the cylinder up with the key in the open position, other members of this forum tried and were unable to do so.

Then, with an ayen-type key, I limited it and made a shape for it to enter the cylinder, that way it looked like a blade and I also managed to remove the cylinders, it is simply to be able to enter the cylinder. , to the last link of the cylinder closure. Once it reaches the last link, it is necessary to turn the ayen type key, until the last link of the security lock is pressed and at the same time remove the cylinder.

Regarding the ignition key, yes, obviously, if the ignition key cylinder is replaced, you have to tell the immobilizer which keys you have at the time. Keys are registered, the process takes about five minutes and a maximum of four keys can be registered in the Trophy.

Finally, let's say that in a matter of half an hour, if we manufacture an antenna, the immobilizer can be tricked into using keys without the chip (transponder), from that mode the motorcycle engine can be put into operation, in fact, I carry it that way.

I put a sample video so you can see what I'm talking about, then you can search for countless videos that are on YouTube in English.

[Coconut]

The Video about changing the Lock Wafers ( "Re-Keying" ) is good,
but it is not a Trophy Lock, which does not have those
identifying numbers stamped onto the Wafers.

Before getting to that stage you need to carefully pry off the end cap,
taking care not to lose the two tiny springs underneath that operate the dust shield.

After removing the dust shield, a Pin is revealed that needs to be withdrawn
as this holds all of the Wafers in place - It can easily be withdrawn with one of
those strong magnetic pick up tools, or the barrel can be tapped to shake it out,
making sure you are holding the wafers in place - each of them also has a tiny spring,
and they are VERY easy to drop and lose ! 

[sin_tiger]

Having done this and similar work where springs and small parts (that might not be known about  ) are involved. I now use a transparent plastic bag large enough to get both hands inside and rest the bag on a magnetic base.

If you'd had to crawl around on my garage floor sifting through layers of grinding dust to find that stainless part that the magnet didn't trap, you'd understand 

[Yaga1973]

Originally Posted by sin_tiger

I now use a transparent plastic bag large enough to get both hands inside and rest the bag on a magnetic base.

Great idea!