Author [ES] [PL] [PT] [IT] [DE] [FR] [NL] [DK] [SE] [FI] [NO] Topic: My 40,000 miles Service  (Read 4012 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Online Saddle Tramp

  • Trophy Master
  • ****
  • Posts: 1249
  • Have Trophy, Will Travel
    • View Profile
  • Bike: 2015 TTSE - Black
  • City / Town: N. WI / S. AZ
  • Country: USA
Re: My 40,000 miles Service
« Reply #88 on: October 15, 2021, 02:34:45 am »
This is the first time in my (very) long motorcycling career that I have had brake caliper pins freeze in their bores before the first pad replacement was necessary, and this in less than three years.

I say shame on Nissin and Triumph for that fact.  :004:
Probationary Twisted Trophies Member (Non-Texan)

Online Saddle Tramp

  • Trophy Master
  • ****
  • Posts: 1249
  • Have Trophy, Will Travel
    • View Profile
  • Bike: 2015 TTSE - Black
  • City / Town: N. WI / S. AZ
  • Country: USA
Re: My 40,000 miles Service
« Reply #89 on: October 15, 2021, 03:02:03 pm »
The only item on the 40,000 mile checklist that I did not perform was replacement of the front forks oil. Based on the cost of the various tools it would require to perform the service, I think I will have it performed by the Dealer instead at nearly the same cost...  :084:
Probationary Twisted Trophies Member (Non-Texan)

Online STJIM

  • Trophy Pro
  • ***
  • Posts: 340
    • View Profile
  • Bike: 2015 TTSE ( Blue )
  • City / Town: West Michigan
  • Country: USA
Re: My 40,000 miles Service
« Reply #90 on: October 17, 2021, 11:51:23 pm »
*Originally Posted by Saddle Tramp [+]
That was my plan before I discovered that one of the caliper pins was frozen in the bore. No amount of penetrating oil and heat could break it loose. BUMMER!

Double BUMMER !!  But thanks for that info.  I will be removing my pins and coating the threads with anti-seize or wrapping them with teflon tape ASAP.
« Last Edit: October 17, 2021, 11:58:03 pm by STJIM »
IBA #35372
BBG  5-2014 ; SS3K 9-2020
Great Lakes 100 :  2011 & 2019
2015 TTSE , 2008 Concours C-14
1998 ST1100

Online STJIM

  • Trophy Pro
  • ***
  • Posts: 340
    • View Profile
  • Bike: 2015 TTSE ( Blue )
  • City / Town: West Michigan
  • Country: USA
Re: My 40,000 miles Service
« Reply #91 on: October 18, 2021, 01:05:21 am »
*Originally Posted by STJIM [+]
Double BUMMER !!  But thanks for that info.  I will be removing my pins and coating the threads with anti-seize or wrapping them with teflon tape ASAP.

Done.  I used teflon tape F & R.  All the pins needed cleaning up and then I added the teflon tape to the threads and coated the pins with brake caliper silicone grease before re-installing.  Both the front & rear wheel seem to spin easier now.
IBA #35372
BBG  5-2014 ; SS3K 9-2020
Great Lakes 100 :  2011 & 2019
2015 TTSE , 2008 Concours C-14
1998 ST1100

Online STJIM

  • Trophy Pro
  • ***
  • Posts: 340
    • View Profile
  • Bike: 2015 TTSE ( Blue )
  • City / Town: West Michigan
  • Country: USA
Re: My 40,000 miles Service
« Reply #92 on: October 18, 2021, 01:14:39 am »
*Originally Posted by Saddle Tramp [+]
This is the first time in my (very) long motorcycling career that I have had brake caliper pins freeze in their bores before the first pad replacement was necessary, and this in less than three years.   SNIP .....

Saddle Tramp :

If you would like to salvage that rear caliper with the stuck pin - do you know anyone with a wire ( MIG ) welder ?  If yes, then take a 6mm bolt and grind the end so you have a tip that will fit into the buggered-up pin.  Then weld the end of the bolt to the pin.  Don't be afraid to turn up the current.  The wire won't stick to the caliper because it's not steel.
Oh yeah. remove the caliper pistons and piston seals from the caliper bores before you do the welding.

I bet the pin will spin out by using a 10 mm wrench on the bolt head after welding.

I have used this technique in the past to remove broken off bolts and studs and it works every time.  It's the heat from the welding that loosens things up.   For a broken stud,  place the same size nut as the stud or broken bolt over the broken stud or bolt and weld away at the center of the nut.

 Let me know if this works for you.  You will have a spare rear caliper.
« Last Edit: October 18, 2021, 01:18:26 am by STJIM »
IBA #35372
BBG  5-2014 ; SS3K 9-2020
Great Lakes 100 :  2011 & 2019
2015 TTSE , 2008 Concours C-14
1998 ST1100

Online Saddle Tramp

  • Trophy Master
  • ****
  • Posts: 1249
  • Have Trophy, Will Travel
    • View Profile
  • Bike: 2015 TTSE - Black
  • City / Town: N. WI / S. AZ
  • Country: USA
Re: My 40,000 miles Service
« Reply #93 on: October 18, 2021, 02:07:24 am »
I had read about that possible remedy when I was trying to free up the caliper pin that was stuck. Now that I have a functioning, and properly lubricated rear brake caliper, I decided there was no sense throwing good money after bad on the old one. It's now resting in peace in a landfill somewhere, gone and soon to be forgotten.  :164:
Probationary Twisted Trophies Member (Non-Texan)

Offline digital

  • Trophy God
  • *****
  • Posts: 2520
  • Trophy SE 1200
    • View Profile
  • Bike: digital
  • City / Town: Barcelona
  • Country: Spain
Re: My 40,000 miles Service
« Reply #94 on: October 18, 2021, 08:28:34 am »
That is fine and is one of the ways the screw will come out smoothly.

Here I want to remind that if for some reason it is necessary to weld with electric machines. You must discount the battery terminals as it could interfere with the ECU and cause irreparable damage to the control unit.
Only motorcyclists know why dogs stick their head out the car window.


Online STJIM

  • Trophy Pro
  • ***
  • Posts: 340
    • View Profile
  • Bike: 2015 TTSE ( Blue )
  • City / Town: West Michigan
  • Country: USA
Re: My 40,000 miles Service
« Reply #95 on: October 18, 2021, 12:53:29 pm »

Digital :  Good reminder when welding on the bike without removing the part first !!!
IBA #35372
BBG  5-2014 ; SS3K 9-2020
Great Lakes 100 :  2011 & 2019
2015 TTSE , 2008 Concours C-14
1998 ST1100

 



tweedy-bunch