Author [NL] [FR] [ES] [DE] [SE] [IT] Topic: Making my Turn Signal Running Lights  (Read 670 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

  • Offline Goodoni

    • Trophy Member  ‐    30
    • **
    • Topic Author

    Offline Goodoni

    • Trophy Member
    • **
    • Topic Author
    • Posts: 30
    • Bike: 2013 Trophy
    • City / Town: Brighton
    Making my Turn Signal Running Lights
    on: Jan 27, 2022, 03.56 pm
    Jan 27, 2022, 03.56 pm
    All,

    I've added the LED Light Bar, now I want to make my turn signals into Running Lights/Turn Signals.
    I've don a little research on the JDM ASTAR 1157 Swirtchbacks, the problem I'm not an electrical guy.
    With the JDM ASTAR's, do I need to add resistors?, If so any instruction, illustrations or diagrams would be greatly appreciated.

    Goodoni


  • Online trophied   us

    • Trophy God  ‐    4881
    • *****
      #1

    Online trophied

    • Trophy God
    • *****
    • Posts: 4881
    • Bike: 2013 Trophy SE
    • City / Town: New Braunfels, Tx
    • Country: us
    Re: Making my Turn Signal Running Lights
    Reply #1 on: Jan 27, 2022, 04.36 pm
    Jan 27, 2022, 04.36 pm
    I have installed the same plug n play DRL's that a number of others have used that include a resistor and I have found that I can change my rear turn signal bulbs to LED's and not have to use a resistor for them.  The resistors included with the simplest method for the front make all the turn signals operate properly.  It's such a simple conversion I wouldn't go any other route, and they have different colors, I went with white DRL's and amber signals, and they help a lot.
    One of the Founding Members of the Twisted Trophies

  • Offline Coconut   gb

    • Trophy God  ‐    9941
    • *****
      #2

    Offline Coconut

    • Trophy God
    • *****
    • Posts: 9941
    • Bike: 2017 Trophy SE
    • City / Town: South Birmingham
    • Country: gb
    Re: Making my Turn Signal Running Lights
    Reply #2 on: Jan 27, 2022, 05.55 pm
    Jan 27, 2022, 05.55 pm
    The JDM Astar 1157 Switchback bulbs are NOT compatible with the Trophy bulbholders.

    The retaining pins of "1157" ( also known as "380" or "Bay15d" ) type bulbs are different to those
    of the Trophy which are type Bau15s, and they will not fit into the Trophy Indicator Bulbholders. 

    The electrical contacts also differ, with the 1157 / Bay15D having 2 contacts in the base, for the
    TWO filaments of the bulb,with the body of the bulb used to make the Ground contact for both filaments,
    while the Trophy Bau15s ( also known as "581" or "PY21W " ) type bulb has a single contact on the base
    ( for Power to the Indicator bulb ) with the bulb body making the Ground contact.

    This is WHY different bulb types have different fittings, so they cannot be fitted
    into the wrong bulbholder and potentially cause electrical problems / failures.

    This image shows a comparison, with the Trophy Bulb on the right :



    On a standard 1157 type bulb there are two filaments - one is 5 Watts and one is 21 Watts,
    and are commonly used as combined "Stop & Tail" Lights where the 5 watt filament is the "Tail light"
    ( or "Position Light" ), and is always on when the vehicle lights are turned on,
    and the other 21 Watt ( brighter ) filament is for the Stop ( Brake ) Light(s).

    To use the JDM A Star 1157 bulbs would require replacement bulbholders,
    and additional wiring to provide power for the Daytime Running Light LEDs.


    The LED Switchbacks that I, and other Members have used successfully, utilise
    the existing Trophy bulbholder, with an additional separate connection via it's own
    sub harness to provide the power required for the white Daytime Running Light LED's.



    See this Topic :

    Front Daytime Running Lights

    Cheers  :821:




     
    Last Edit: Jan 27, 2022, 10.15 pm by Coconut

  • Offline Goodoni

    • Trophy Member  ‐    30
    • **
    • Topic Author
    • #3

    Offline Goodoni

    • Trophy Member
    • **
    • Topic Author
    • Posts: 30
    • Bike: 2013 Trophy
    • City / Town: Brighton
    Re: Making my Turn Signal Running Lights
    Reply #3 on: Feb 01, 2022, 09.38 pm
    Feb 01, 2022, 09.38 pm
    Coconut,

    Thanks for the illustration, I'm nor electrically inline, but i can handle this.
    Is is possible to provide a list of parts?

    Thanks!
    Goodoni,


  • Offline Coconut   gb

    • Trophy God  ‐    9941
    • *****
      #4

    Offline Coconut

    • Trophy God
    • *****
    • Posts: 9941
    • Bike: 2017 Trophy SE
    • City / Town: South Birmingham
    • Country: gb
    Re: Making my Turn Signal Running Lights
    Reply #4 on: Feb 01, 2022, 10.32 pm
    Feb 01, 2022, 10.32 pm
    There is no list of parts !  Everything in my previous Photo is part of the complete kit.

    Here's a list - of instructions :

    1.  Remove the bulbholders from the Indicator housings and take out the bulbs.
    2.  Route the long white wire of the of the Kit under the headlamp from one side of the bike to the other and secure with cable ties.
    3.  Take the rubber "O-Rings" off the Trophy Bulbholders, and fit them to the new LED bulbs.
    4.  Push the new LED bulbs into the Indicator housings - the "O-Rings" help keep them in place.
    5.  Connect the Bulb bases ( with red and black wires attached ) of the kit, into each Trophy bulbholder.
    6.  ( Optional ) Secure the Bulbholder with connected wired Bulb base into a plastic bag to protect against possible water ingress.
    7.  Identify a suitable Ignition switched 12V Power supply, such as the front Position Lamp Yellow wire,
         or the back of the Storage box accessory socket etc.
    8.  Connect the identified power supply to the Red wire ( with in-line fuseholder ) of the kit.
    9.  Tidy the excess wires away so they don't interfere with, or get trapped by the mirrors when they are folded out or adjusted.
    10. Tidy the loose Trophy bulbholders with the new Bulb Bases, and the Resistors away.
    11. Test : Turn the Ignition on and the White LED's should light up.
          When an Indicator is switched ON, the White LED on that side should switch OFF, and the Amber LED should Flash.
          When the Indicator is cancelled the Amber LED should switch OFF and the White LED should "switch back" ON.
          Activate the Hazard warning lights and confirm that both sides operate correctly together.
    12. Be aware that the longer the Indicators are left running, the hotter the Resistors will become,
          and it is therefore worth considering, especially if your regular use involves prolonged use of the Hazard Warning lights,
          mounting the Resistors where heat damage ( such as melted plastic ! ) would not be a problem -
          preferably mounted onto a metal surface to dissipate the heat.

    Cheers  :821:


  • Offline Goodoni

    • Trophy Member  ‐    30
    • **
    • Topic Author
    • #5

    Offline Goodoni

    • Trophy Member
    • **
    • Topic Author
    • Posts: 30
    • Bike: 2013 Trophy
    • City / Town: Brighton
    Re: Making my Turn Signal Running Lights
    Reply #5 on: Feb 04, 2022, 05.41 pm
    Feb 04, 2022, 05.41 pm
    Coconut,

    This is information is great!
    Where can I purchase the kit??

    Goodoni

  • Offline Coconut   gb

    • Trophy God  ‐    9941
    • *****
      #6

    Offline Coconut

    • Trophy God
    • *****
    • Posts: 9941
    • Bike: 2017 Trophy SE
    • City / Town: South Birmingham
    • Country: gb
    Re: Making my Turn Signal Running Lights
    Reply #6 on: Feb 04, 2022, 09.27 pm
    Feb 04, 2022, 09.27 pm
    Search eBay or Amazon for "led switchback bau15s".

    Most ( all ? ) of the sellers I have seen are based in China,
    though some advertise as having "UK Stock".


     



    tweedy-bunch