Fork Top Cap Socket

[Pauli363]

Originally Posted by Spanish Andy

I didn't change the fork oil yet - next job on list when I have, time, but when I asked the question originally about size of the cap nut "Digital" implies that a standard 50mm hex socket is fine. I would imagine the special tool insert is to avoid scratching - probably could also use some tape around the nut before putting the socket on .

Thanks.  In terms of removal, given there are some electronics in there, are you aware of any special procedure in terms of removal and replacement of the cap with the electronics on it?
Im wondering if there is some calibration it needs once replaced on the bike, or does it self calibrate.

[digital]

If the language translator allows me, I will try to explain the part that I understand that you are asking…

I am going to prepare some photos so that you can understand how to proceed to disassemble the forks of the front shock absorbers.

[Pauli363]

Hi Digital.

I actually decided to go ahead with the procedure tonight.  I'm about half way through and I will finish tomorrow night.
As I posted earlier, I have the bike stripped down as I needed to complete a few tasks"

1. Replace the Garmin Zumo 595 with the Zumo XL.  This of course meant removing the harness for the 595 and replacing it with the XL harness.  A lot less wires now anyway.

2. Sort out the Ignition wiring issue.  I actually suffered the damage to the harness that Triumph did the recall for.  To be honest, it wasn't a big job and I didn't want to lose the bike for weeks to the dealer, so I sorted it myself.  Thankfully, the fraying was restricted to one wire, which had gone through to the copper.  I added some solder to toughen it up. sealed it with hot glue, then wrapped the single wire in insulating tape.  I then copiously reinforced the whole loom with duct tape and also used some zip ties to take the pressure off the loom.  I reckon its sorted now.

  3. fit Tralex's front and rear crash bars which arrived in the post yesterday.  A breeze to fit.  Finished that job tonight as well and they look great.

4.  Finally, starting on the forks, and referring to the service manual, I removed the front wheel, loosened the top caps, then loosened all the fork bolts and removed them.
I won't go in to the procedure here for rebuilding the forks.  I noticed there is no "how to" here for stripping down the forks, replacing all the seals and bushes, and replacing the oil in a 1215 SE. So I have been taking photos as I go, and hopefully when I am finished I will post a 'how to ' for this task.  If I can do it anyone can!  Suffice to say as well.  YOU DO NOT NEED THE SO CALLED DEDICATED TRIUMPH TOOLS TO COMPLETE THIS.  You could literally do this with a few spanners, sockets and allen keys.  I bought a seating tool off eBay which was cheap, and also a syringe for refilling the oil.  Neither were expensive, but they aren't even really necessary.
I have already the left fork stripped down, the seals etc replaced, and have it upside down overnight to drain all the oil out.  Tomorrow night, I will do the other fork, then refill the oil and put back on the bike.  I would say if I was to start this again with the knowledge I now have, it would take me 4-5 hours from start to finish.

[digital]

Well, I already have half a task done and I'm going to post it as it can help other Trophy holders.

[Pauli363]

Excellent.  All helps.

[digital]

Let's go to the Bull!!!

The first thing you should do is buy a 50mm socket (I bought it on Amazon) that is, it is not a special tool...

I advise you that before removing the forks from the front shock absorbers, first loosen the upper nuts where you have the automatic adjustment connectors and for this you need the 50mm socket.

In the next photo you can see the socket used to loosen both front shock forks, do not move the nut socket when loosening it, no need to cover with tape or rags. (It will not scratch the nut).







In order to insert the 50mm socket, you must remove the 6 Allen-type screws that I indicate in the following photo:



Once you remove the 6 screws, tilt both handlebars towards the fuel tank and thus leave enough space to be able to insert the 50mm socket in the upper nuts of the shock absorber forks.

Once you have both upper shock nuts loosened, the next step is to remove the shock forks.

Central stand placed, front wheel, brake calipers etc, etc.

The next step is to loosen the Allen screws holding the shock forks and you will be able to individually move each shock fork up or down. And how not to remove them from their accommodation.

For its assembly it is not necessary to do any calibration, in this next photo I am showing you that stud that is in charge of automatically raising and lowering when a calibration occurs, therefore, you should not worry about calibration at all, since it will continue in its same position it had during disassembly.



Here the 50mm socket is perfectly inserted into the nut without hindering the automatic calibration connector, since the 50mm socket has enough space inside for the connector to fit inside the 50mm socket.

[Pauli363]

Right.  Starting on the fork oil refills and I have run into a problem that the service manual does not cover.

When you remove the cap and drain the oil, you will see the top of the damper rod with a bolt on it. This compresses the spring via a long plastic spring guide. (you can see this via the image on 12.2 of the service manual to the very right of the exploded diagram.
When you remove the bolt from the top of the damper , you can then remove the spring guide and the spring. If the tube is held upright, the damper rod falls down inside the inner tube. It will pop up again when the tub is turned upside down.

However, the service manual states that the spring and spring guide etc must be removed from the inner tube before refilling with new oil.  So far so good.

Here's the problem, once the oil is filled (and you are holding or clamping the damper rod to prevent it sliding back down the tube, I cannot see a way to replace the spring and spring guide The damper is meant to slide back up the centre of the spring guide to meet the nut at the top.  However, as soon as the damper rod is released, it slides back down the inner tube.  You can slide in the spring assembly, but the damper bar does not come up enough to re do the nut. Of course, if you try and turn the fork tube horizontal, all the new oil is going to run out. I am totally baffled as to what to do next.

[Pauli363]

Ok.  Got over that hurdle with a bit of trial and error.

Honestly, the service manual is as much use as a chocolate fireguard.  The description of how to tear down and rebuild the forks is totally inadequate.
I actually filled the forks, rebuilt them and installed back on the bike in less than two hours today but I had to use a lot of common sense as the manual is really no use here.

On the damper rod issue, once the oil is refilled, a few pumps seems to prime the damper and it gets a lot stiffer in the inner tube.  When held upright, it moves only very slowly back down into the tube.
The trick is that once the oil is refilled and you have let it settle and reprimed the damper by pumping a few times, have the spring and spring guide ready at hand to pop back in.
You can then compress the spring guide to expose a few threads at the top of the damper rod, and get the washer and top nut located. 
From then on, just tighten the nut down and replace the fork cap.

Note:  The recalibration of the forks is automatic. Once the bike is rebuilt, run through the 3 TES settings, and you should find it calibrates just fine.

Also, Digital, if you use a large spanner in place of the 50mm socket, you do not have to remove the handlebars at all.  There is not much torque on these caps, and they will loosen easily with a normal spanner. No damage at all.

I'll type up a start to finish procedure and the few tools I used once Ive finished everything.