2013 Trophy SE short

[Zalex820]

Just got my hands on a 2013 Triumph trophy SE that has 1400 miles on it and been sitting with full tank of fuel for about 6 years. Long story short I replaced the battery turned the key and tried to crank, it cranked really well but did not start. After digging around I found fuse 4 (10amp kill switch fuse) blown. I replaced it and it blew right away, i noticed i didnt hear the fuel pump so I took it all apart, removed pump and filter then tried turning switch on it without pump and it did not blow the fuse. Hooked the pump up direct to a spare batt it worked like a champ. Not exactly sure where the problem is. What should I check next and what else should I do to the bike aside from oil change and fresh fuel.

[Coconut]

Hi Zalex820 and to the Forum - When you have a moment,
drop by the "New Members" Section to introduce yourself properly !

I'm not 100% sure about the "Kill Switch" Fuse No.4 ?
but looking at the Wiring Diagram, Fuse No.4 of the Rear Fusebox
( Left side of the Bike ) provides Power along a White wire with Blue stripe,
directly to the Fuel Pump RELAY, located as shown below,
and has nothing else connected to it.



It could be as simple as a faulty Relay causing the Fuse to Blow,
so I'd start by changing it for a known good one.

If the Relay is good, check for any Short circuit from that Wire to Ground
when the Realy is disconnected.



Cheers 

[Coconut]

Following on from my previous Message, the Fuel Pump Relay is Triumph Part Number T2506040,
and it is the same Relay used at Item 4. "Headlight Relay", and Item 6. "Accessories Relay",
so you could try "borrowing" one of those to conduct a Test of the Fuel Pump circuit.

If a faulty relay is NOT the problem, then check for any Fault Codes
( Triumph call them "DTC's' which stands for "Diagnostic Trouble Codes" ).
and report back !

Refer to this Topic to find out how to display DTC's on your Instrument Panel :

Servicing Data, Reference Info. & DTC ( Fault ) Codes

Scroll down to the message titled, "Diagnostic Trouble Codes ( DTC's ) / Fault Codes", dated Mar 11, 2015,
and at the end of that message you can download a List of all the DTC's and their meanings,
together with other useful information about them !

Something else you MUST get done whatever, is the Ignition Switch Wiring Safety Recall Inspection.
Incorrectly routed wiring can become damaged resulting in an unexpected loss of Elecrical Power
and the engine cutting out ! ( And it might also be contributing to your problem ).

Click the Link in my Signature line below to find out more about this.

Cheers 

[Zalex820]

You sir are the man!!! Got the thing running today. Thanks a million 

[Coconut]

Yay !    Another success !

I presume it was the Relay then ?

In addition to the Safety Recall Inspection previously mentioned,
although the Bike has been ridden very few miles, it has been left
standing for so long, that I would also recommend checking :

• Although not scheduled to ever be replaced after the initial 500 mile break-in service,
  for the relatively minimal cost involved, it makes sense to also change the Final Drive Unit oil.
  
  
• CHANGE all the Hydraulic Brake Fluid AND Clutch Fluid,
  which is recommended to be changed every 2 years.
  Brake Fluid is "Hygroscopic" and gradually absorbs water over time.
  If too much water is absorbed and the fluid gets hot near the caliper under heavy braking
  it can boil, turn to vapour and you can lose braking force !
  
  
• Check the Front and Rear brakes for smooth operation of all Caliper Pistons,
  check the condition of the Brake Pads, and clean out the Calipers where they fit.
  
  
• Check condition of the Tires for age deterioration - particularly the
  front tire if the bike has been left for a long time resting on the front
  wheel, the tire may have developed a flat spot.
  
  
• Change the Coolant, which is specified to be changed every 3 years regardless of Mileage.
  
  
• Check the Lower Rear Suspension Unit / Drag Link / Drop Link Bearings and Ground Sleeves,
  for Corrosion of the Sleeves / Bearings, and that they are adequately lubricated.
  
  
• Check the Front Wheel Spacers and Oil Seals, and the Wheel Bearings -
  When the Seals and / or Spacers wear, moisture can get into the hub and corrode the Bearings.
  
  

Cheers 

[Zalex820]

To be honest not exactly sure what it was. Relay is fine. I think the fuel pump was jammed up and over Amping fuse. Once I got her turning she is doing fine.

Another question for you: fuel level is not showing up at all. Added about 4 gallons fresh fuel.  Checked OHMS on fuel sender got 76 ohms about 2 gallons in tank and 60 ohms with about 4 gallons. Thoughts?

[Coconut]

That's normal with the Fuel Gauge if the Battery has been disconnected,
or the bike has been standing for a while - It will come back on after you start riding.

It's the same when you fill the Tank up at a Gas Station, where it doesn't update straight away,
as explained on Page 34 of the Owners Handbook :

After refuelling, the fuel gauge and range to empty information
will be updated only while riding the motorcycle.

Depending on the riding style, updating could take up to five minutes.

Cheers