Author [NL] [FR] [ES] [DE] [SE] [IT] Brake Pad and Rotor Rub  (Read 4822 times)

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  • Offline flynvtwn   us

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    Offline flynvtwn

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    Brake Pad and Rotor Rub
    on: Oct 27, 2022, 09.03 pm
    Oct 27, 2022, 09.03 pm
    I'm curious how much is too much rubbing/friction on the front brake pads and the rotors?  I swapped tires about a week ago and after reinstalling them (I have no clue how much they were rubbing before I removed the wheel) the pads and rotors were rubbing not allowing the wheel to free spin more than about 1 revolution when hand turning.  The only reason I checked this was I was getting a little vibration above 65 mph.  I found that there was a spot in the revolution that was rubbing more than others making me worry that the rotor might have been warped. 

    Today I pulled the wheel back out and did a deep clean on the bobbins, flushed the brake fluid and reinstalled everything.  This seems to help since I can get 2-2.5 revolutions with just a quick hand spin.  I can still hear rubbing, but nothing seems to be out of alignment since they have a constant rub all the way around the turn. 

    All that said should they free spin with zero rubbing or is what I am experiencing now the norm?

  • Offline digital   es

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    Re: Brake Pad and Rotor Rub
    Reply #1 on: Oct 27, 2022, 10.29 pm
    Oct 27, 2022, 10.29 pm
    Mine has always rubbed something.
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    Re: Brake Pad and Rotor Rub
    Reply #2 on: Oct 28, 2022, 12.58 am
    Oct 28, 2022, 12.58 am
    To the best of my knowledge and experience with other disc brake systems the only thing that retracts the pads from the disc is a square rubber O-ring (for lack of a better term) that deforms from the puck being extended slightly against the disc and creates just enough pressure trying go back to it's original position in it's groove to lessen any stopping resistance against the disc.  Bear in mind this is from a caliper rebuilds I did YEARS ago, and at my age, things change at light speed. :745:
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  • Offline flynvtwn   us

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    Re: Brake Pad and Rotor Rub
    Reply #3 on: Oct 28, 2022, 04.05 pm
    Oct 28, 2022, 04.05 pm
    I thought it was fine to have some rubbing as long as it was even all the way around.  I just wanted to check to make sure.  Time for a test ride now to make sure all is well.  I kept the brakes compressed overnight with zip ties to get any remaining air out of the lines so everything feels nice and firm.  Hopefully this will solve the slow braking problem I experienced last weekend.  There were a few hard braking times that I thought I should have had more brake than I had.  I wasn't getting hardly any feel out of the rear and I now know why.  It came out of the bleeder cloudy and looking like a dark ale. 

    Hazzard of buying a used bike without a service history.  I hopefully will get it all sorted soon though. 

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    Re: Brake Pad and Rotor Rub
    Reply #4 on: Oct 28, 2022, 05.01 pm
    Oct 28, 2022, 05.01 pm
    Sounds like there was condensation in the caliper which can cause corrosion.  If so there may be pitting in the bottom of it which may require attention to correct it and avoid any leakage.  Very common in the older drum and disc brake systems that I had to work on when I didn't have the funds to pay to have it done.
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  • Offline flynvtwn   us

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    Re: Brake Pad and Rotor Rub
    Reply #5 on: Oct 28, 2022, 05.11 pm
    Oct 28, 2022, 05.11 pm
    We will see how new fluid and the deep clean of the rotors, calipers, and bobbins does.  I think someone probably had replaced the fluid in the front brakes, but never touched the back so the fluid I was changing was from the factory in 2017.

    After the quote I got from my local Triumph dealer in Knoxville to do an oil change, final gear oil, and brake bleed I will be doing pretty much all the servicing on the bike if at all possible. 

  • Offline Coconut   gb

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    Re: Brake Pad and Rotor Rub
    Reply #6 on: Oct 28, 2022, 06.21 pm
    Oct 28, 2022, 06.21 pm
    To fully bleed all the old Brake fluid out of the system,
    ( which should be changed every 2 years regardless of mileage
    due to its "hygroscopic" properties - allowing it to absorb water
    which can lead to the fluid boiling under harsh conditions,
    and ZERO braking action when you might need it most ! ),
    the ABS Pump valves need to be opened to allow the new fluid
    to flush through.

    This is accomplished either by the Dealer connecting their diagnostics equipment
    or, for the home mechanic, by use of the after market "DealerTool" device.

    It is not unusual to hear reports of the rear brake feeling "weak", but remember that the Trophy
    braking system is a Linked system, where application of the rear brake,
    proportionally applies braking to the front wheel, via a proportional
    control valve as the weight of the bike is transferred forwards,
    to prevent the rear wheel from locking up. 

    The "link" from the rear brake circuit is via the proportional control valve
    to the lower pistons of the right front caliper.

    The Service Manual details the process to be followed for fully bleeding the brake system.

    Don't forget to change the Clutch fluid at the same intervals.  :028:

    Cheers  :821:


  • Offline STJIM   us

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    Re: Brake Pad and Rotor Rub
    Reply #7 on: Oct 30, 2022, 12.24 am
    Oct 30, 2022, 12.24 am
    I don't think you have a problem.  It's normal to have some "drag" with disk brakes.  The brakes drag a bit on every motorcycle I have owned.

    I just got back on the laptop after checking my Trophy.  With the front wheel off the pavement, if I give it a good spin, the wheel stops in almost exactly 1 revolution, repeatedly, similar to other motorcycles I have owned.  My Concours acts about the same  - checked it too.
    Last Edit: Oct 30, 2022, 12.26 am by STJIM
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