Alternate garage door opener install

[Paul]

Has anyone ever drilled all the way through one, specifically the left side? I don't need it to be the same size as the threaded part, but maybe 9/64" or 5/32" and all the way through.

Sorry if this is in the wrong spot!

[trophied]

And.... the reason would be?  Yeah, yeah, you do some unique stuff, and it's great to see it, but inquiring minds want to know!

[Paul]

Originally Posted by trophied

And.... the reason would be?

I was wondering if someone would ask 
As I noted in the opener thread, I'm going to hack a spare garage opener I have, and I think the threaded spot of the clutch master would be an ideal spot to install the SPST switch that arrived today. The switch is shallow enough that it should fit nearly perfectly with some minor modifications to it's diameter, and it would be within easy reach and will really blend in well. I'd want to drill out the rest of the opening so I can run the wiring out the bottom then into the existing harness loom. After that I'd feed the wiring into the glove box where I'll keep the opener for easy access when battery replacement is needed. If that can't be drilled, I'll mount a bracket there instead (but using the existing hole would be a much cleaner look).

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08JHW8BPV?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

[trophied]

A nice little black, flush mount button momentary switch would work well on the lid of the glove box, and connected to the remote by mini spade connectors so it could be disconnected easily if necessary.  I see your logic in the mounting point for ease of use.

[digital]

The ideal is to give the remote control voltage from the same motorcycle and forget about replacing its batteries.

There are 12-volt remote controls, so there is no problem with that remote control being powered from the motorcycle's voltage. But I know full well that there are 6 volt remotes, it's also not a problem if you put miniature voltage reducers/stabilizers that adjust from 1 volt to 12 volts.

[Paul]

I agree switching to a 12V opener would be ideal, but after more consideration I prefer to have a smaller switch located in a more convenient spot. I don't want to have to look to see where it is, and I don't want to have to take my hand off the throttle to push the button. Using the battery cover or glove box lid are excellent suggestions, I just don't think it will work for me. Plus, since I already have a couple of battery operated openers, I don't mind sacrificing the old Clicker brand one that I no longer use. And really, how often do those batteries have to be replaced!!!

As far as the left side mirror mount, I don't think that's going to work either unless I use it to mount a bracket for the switch (Plan B). The O.D. of the switch is .46", the I.D. of the threaded bore is .31". That's a lot of material to remove from the switch, which will likely destroy it. Sure, I could probably open up the bore some too, but I don't think I'm comfortable doing that with the master sitting so close. I think if Plan B doesn't work, Plan C will be to put the opener inside the tank bag and drill a small hole on the left side to mount the switch.

[digital]

The most comfortable and easiest way to find to put the garage door remote control into operation, without a doubt, is to connect it to the button located behind the set of buttons on the left pineapple. (the one that with each press illuminates the high beams).

[Paul]

Originally Posted by digital

The most comfortable and easiest way to find to put the garage door remote control into operation, without a doubt, is to connect it to the button located behind the set of buttons on the left pineapple. (the one that with each press illuminates the high beams).

True, but I don't think the F2P kit is available anymore, and my way is cheaper