Screen adjustment behaving weirdly

[KenJ888]

They certainly are. Tbh its way over my head but tomorrow i will check if the system is working. If not ill check the fault code, clear it and try a reset limits on Dealertool. If no change ill swap each of the screen relays in turn with the other 3rd relay (that has the same part no) of the rear brake (I think) to see what happens.

[Coconut]

Another bit of information -

If you do need to replace one or more of the Relays, they are no longer available from Triumph ! 

Suitable replacements can be found online from eBay etc. by searching for Part Number T2506035.

The original Make and Model Number of the Changeover Relay is OMRON G8HN 1C4T RH

A readily available alternative from RS Components ( or Mouser / DigiKey etc )
is the Panasonic CM1-12V.  Available from RS Components as Part Number 699-5967 for £6.15.

It's worth mentioning that the 5 pin Relay type can also be used as a substitute
for the other type of 4 pin Relay, such as the one used for the Top Box ( Triumph Part No. T2506040 )
which World of Triumph have kindly omitted completely from the Trophy Electrical Parts list !
( You can't use a 4 pin relay as a substitute for a 5 pin one though ! )

I have updated the Forum Spare Parts List with this information.


Cheers 

[KenJ888]

Ok guys. Thanks for all the help with my screen problems. Good news is that it's fixed. It was a bad connection in the loom under the tank despite the live pins on the relays showing 13.54 volts. When I opened the tape the crimp connector was heavily coated in green corrosion as well as the wires. On my bike the connector was very close to the main loom and the fusebox. I snipped the wires close to the connector on both sides. On the fusebox side there’s 2 wires into the connector 1 small light wire and 1 thicker (probably from the fusebox - but i forgot to check for continuity before it was soldered) I trimmed the coating about 10mm, spliced them together and soldered them together. Then I took a 5 inch piece of new wire soldered the end and then joined it to the two wires from the fusebox and covered it with shrink wrap. The relay side is easier as there’s more space and there's 4 blue wires, 2 heavier wires and 2 lighter wires. The heavier wires were shiny copper colour when stripped back which was probably why the relays showed voltage. Both the lighter wires had green corrosion on them but 1 was particularly bad. (I’ll try and upload pics later when i work out how to) I made up a white vinegar and salt solution and dipped the 4 wires in it for 2 mins. Then into a solution of water and baking soda to kill the reaction. This brightened up the trimmed copper ends and then they soldered together. I dropped a piece of heat shrink over the end before connecting the new wire and sealing it. I reconnected the battery and switched on the ignition and the screen immediately carried out a full up and down movement. Then using the switch i moved it up to 3/4’s and switched off the ignition. After the normal 2-3 seconds it moved down to park. I then wrapped the loom and reconnected the connections. Job done. Hallelujah ✊

https://photos.triumph-trophy.com/image/22PdY

https://photos.triumph-trophy.com/image/22nVZ

https://photos.triumph-trophy.com/image/22Mod

https://photos.triumph-trophy.com/image/22Vv1

https://photos.triumph-trophy.com/image/22kHV

https://photos.triumph-trophy.com/image/22JzO

[trophied]

 

[Coconut]

That's Great News ! - Thanks for the update ! 

I guess that there was still enough of a connection to register 12V at the Relays,
but so much corrosion that it was limiting the amount of current that could pass,
which was not sufficient to operate the motor.

.... and you have also confirmed that all the other connections in the circuit are good,
with the added bonus of knowing your Trophy a little more intimately ! 

Cheers 

[KenJ888]

Indeed I do Coconut. I have to admit I didn’t think the loom was the problem because of the voltage at the relays so I really only checked it to rule it out. So glad I did and as soon as I opened the tape it was obvious there was a potential problem. Just for everyone’s info there’s actually 3 multi connections in that part of the loom. There’s a collection of black wires joined together and a connection of yellows and orange wires joined together. These 2 are wrapped and protected by a stiff black plastic sleeve of possibly heat shrink. I didn’t pay much attention to them as they looked well preserved. The blue screen power connection is the only 1 that’s not wrapped or protected and you have to wonder why? Anyway glad it’s sorted. Having a working screen makes the bike so much better to ride. Take care folks. Thanks for the help ✊