Author [ES] [PL] [PT] [IT] [DE] [FR] [NL] [DK] [SE] [FI] [NO] Topic: Issue 2 - How I fitted Twin Fiamm horns  (Read 9403 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline Glenn

  • Trophy Pro
  • ***
  • Posts: 373
    • View Profile
  • Bike: Trophy SE
  • City / Town: Wisbech, Cambs
  • Country: UK
Issue 2 - How I fitted Twin Fiamm horns
« on: November 29, 2013, 10:49:20 am »
Issue 2 has revised wiring instructions.

My lovely wife Chris gave me a pair of Freeway Blaster horns for my birthday and I thought you might be interested to know how I decided to mount and wire them. (http://www.eurohorns.com/freeway-blaster-12v)

Considerations:
The kit requires a 10 Amp in-line fuse on the +ve feed. This was NOT SUPPLIED with the kit but, luckily, I had a neat spare one from my Gerbings heated clothing kit.
I wanted to minimise wiring runs as much as possible.
I wanted both horns to be inside the fairing without touching or obstructing it (nightmare part of the project)
The horns had to have good clearance from the exhaust ‘cos they are plastic.
I wanted to be able to operate the horns without the ignition on i.e. in the key-off position.

This is what I did:
After much deliberation I decided to fit everything on the right side of the bike because this would be closer to the battery and the original horn position, bracket and cable. Also, I could use existing cable runs to thread my pos +ve feed.
I labelled the fuse housing and the relay as “twin horn” to aide any other mechanics that may get to work on my bike.
I also labelled the relay spade terminal positions on the sides of the relay to make them easier to identify.

1.   I removed the fairing from the right side and the radiator covers from the front.
Only 1 hour’s work thanks to Coconut’s excellent instructions in the “How to” section of the forum.

2.   I disconnected and removed the Triumph original horn and its bracket, taking care not to cut or damage the wires because I would need one of them later.

3.   I spent an “enjoyable” two hours of trial and error positioning the various components and putting the large side fairing on and off several times to get the clearances right.
Note: An old flexible mount bracket from a car stereo helped to fine tune the position of the front horn. (pic 1)
[smg id=426]
I later used that as a template for a sturdy bracket.
Showing the sturdy bracket and front horn in place (pic 1a)
[smg id=434]

4.   I fitted the horn brackets.
The front horn bracket that I fashioned got bolted onto the original horn mounting position.
The rear horn bracket went behind the plastic radiator mount bracket, secured by the rear bolt. The rear bracket can be seen here in position behind the plastic radiator bracket, with the short dog-leg bend facing outward away from the engine. (pic 2)
[smg id=425]


5.   I then fitted both horns to their brackets.
Note: The clearance between the front horn and the exhaust pipe it is at least twice that of the original. (pic 3).
[smg id=427]


6.   I decided to use the front bolt of the plastic radiator bracket to fit the supplied relay. This pic also shows the horns in their final position. (pic 4)
[smg id=428]

7.   I test fitted the large fairing panel one final time to ensure clearances had been maintained.

Moving on to the electrical side of the project.

8.   I connected the purple coloured wire from the original horn cable to the relay spade terminal #85.  I had to re-route the last couple of inches of cable through the local bracket for it to reach the relay.
Notes:
This purple wire goes to the horn push button and is the earth (ground) –ve line in this circuit.
This original wire is smaller in gauge than those that I fabricated, which is ok because it carries only a small current to ‘activate’ the relay.
The relay allows the safe use of the low current in the bike’s switchgear to initiate use of the higher current required in the horn-sounding circuit.
I had to be sure NOT TO send high current though the horn-push circuit because it would overload and burn out.
 
I then had to fabricate wires that would carry the higher current to drive the horns. These needed to be greater in gauge (2.5mm sq).

9.   I fabricated & fitted a wire to connect between spade terminal # 87 and one of the spade terminals on the front horn (either terminal would do).
This wire had a piggy-back connector on the end connected to the horn.

9a.    I fabricated & fitted a wire to connect from the piggy-back on the front horn to the either spade terminal on the rear horn.

10.   I fabricated & fitted a wire to connect between the unused spade terminal on the front horn and the unused spade terminal on the rear horn.
This wire had a piggy-back connector on the end connected to the rear horn.

11.   I fabricated & fitted a wire to connect between the piggy-back spade terminal on the rear horn and an earthed bolt on the engine. (pic5)
[smg id=429]

12.   I fabricated & fitted a wire to connect between relay spade terminal #86 and relay spade terminal #30. This wire had a piggy-back connector on the end connected to relay spade terminal #30.
13.   I fabricated (but did not fit the battery end yet) a wire to connect between the battery and the piggy-back on relay spade terminal #30.
This wire had an in-line fuse rated at 10 Amp, at the battery end.
It was long enough to route via the existing harness path on the right hand side that goes forward then down.
Almost finished. (pic 6)
[smg id=430]

Heat shrink insulation was fitted to all terminal connections. (pic 7)
[smg id=431]


I double checked the wiring connections, routes and insulation.

14.   I connected the pos +ve fused cable to the positive terminal on the battery. (Pic 8)
[smg id=432]

15.   I held my breath and tested the horn with the ignition on and with it off.

PAAAARP, no more meep meep.
« Last Edit: December 23, 2013, 11:44:17 pm by Glenn »

Offline Glenn

  • Trophy Pro
  • ***
  • Posts: 373
    • View Profile
  • Bike: Trophy SE
  • City / Town: Wisbech, Cambs
  • Country: UK
Re: How I fitted Twin Fiamm horns
« Reply #1 on: November 29, 2013, 11:04:18 am »
I copied the topic and put it here, as requested.
Sorry guys, I couldn't work out how to move your comments to here.

Online Coconut

  • Trophy God
  • *****
  • Posts: 8945
    • View Profile
  • Bike: 2017 Trophy SE
  • City / Town: South Birmingham
  • Country: UK
Re: How I fitted Twin Fiamm horns
« Reply #2 on: November 29, 2013, 11:21:13 am »
Thanks Glenn -

 :460: and a great write up that will be very useful for anyone else contemplating a horn upgrade  :028:

« Last Edit: June 26, 2020, 07:00:03 pm by Coconut »

Offline Bajagrngo

  • Trophy Pro
  • ***
  • Posts: 216
    • View Profile
  • Bike: Trophy SE launch.
  • City / Town: Las Vegas
  • Country: USA
Re: How I fitted Twin Fiamm horns
« Reply #3 on: December 12, 2013, 03:20:28 am »
Does anyone have an opinion on whether this type of mod will affect the warranty ?
Tom Brennan

Offline Berber

  • Trophy Master
  • ****
  • Posts: 1182
    • View Profile
  • Bike: K1600GTL (Pegasus)
  • City / Town: Nottingham
  • Country: UK
Re: How I fitted Twin Fiamm horns
« Reply #4 on: December 12, 2013, 10:50:28 am »
*Originally Posted by Bajagrngo [+]
Does anyone have an opinion on whether this type of mod will affect the warranty ?

I shouldnt think so otherwise the dealership would have told me before they fitted mine.
'The farther one travels, the less one knows.......'

George Harrison

Offline Bajagrngo

  • Trophy Pro
  • ***
  • Posts: 216
    • View Profile
  • Bike: Trophy SE launch.
  • City / Town: Las Vegas
  • Country: USA
Re: How I fitted Twin Fiamm horns
« Reply #5 on: December 12, 2013, 02:18:46 pm »
Thanks Berber. I've been considering a screaming banshee horn system but was concerned that if I had a future electrical problem Triumph might not honor the warranty. Good to know dealers are fitting them
Tom Brennan

Offline DonTom

  • Trophy Master
  • ****
  • Posts: 2003
  • Don & Tom in Gulin, China
    • View Profile
  • Bike: 2013 TTSE & 9 others
  • City / Town: Auburn,CA or Reno,NV
  • Country: USA
Re: How I fitted Twin Fiamm horns
« Reply #6 on: December 12, 2013, 05:45:03 pm »
I have all the stuff here to start my horn install. But I am waiting for my $650.00 mounting bracket (Adventure Crash Bars) to come in. I might consider mounting my horns on these crash bars, just as I did with my Red 1984 Venture. That is as long as they look decent mounted there as they did on my Venture.

I have about a million things to do here, but I will be retired on the first of the year and will have plenty of time for such things. It's been very cold here lately. It's +14°F / -10°C right now. Was -12°F/-25°C when I checked a couple of nights ago. And I hear there was one night in the last week when it got down to -22°F/-30°C. Days only a bit better, but I usually work on my cycles at night.

-Don- (in ice Cold Springs Valley, Reno, NV)
1971 Black BMW R75/5/* 1984 Red Yamaha Venture* 2002 Yellow Suzuki DR200SE* 2013 Blue Triumph Trophy SE*2016 Orange/Black Kaw Versy 650 LT*2016 Orange Moto Guzzi Stelvio* 2017 Gold/Black Harley FLTRU RoadGlide Ultra*2017 Zero 6.5DS* 2017 Zero SR13 w/Pwr Tank*2020 Energica SS9

Offline Ray_B

  • Trophy Pro
  • ***
  • Posts: 211
    • View Profile
  • Bike: '15 SE (ex '13 SE)
  • City / Town: Central New Jersey
  • Country: USA
Re: How I fitted Twin Fiamm horns
« Reply #7 on: December 23, 2013, 05:57:50 pm »
Thanks for the write-up Glenn!
One question: If I read your horn-to-horn wiring steps 9, 10 & 11 correctly, you connected the horns in SERIES, not PARALLEL. If so, each horn is operating at 6v, not 12v. Did I misread or did you run 2 wires between the horns so each got the full 12v?
Ray

 



tweedy-bunch