Author [NL] [FR] [ES] [DE] [SE] [IT] Topic: Brake lever adjustment.  (Read 5392 times)

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  • Offline Queensland Ken

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    Offline Queensland Ken

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    Brake lever adjustment.
    on: Jan 04, 2014, 09.29 am
    Jan 04, 2014, 09.29 am
    Hi,
    Iíve done a site specific Google search, to no avail, on how to adjust the position of the rear brake lever.

    I just need to bring the lever up a tad, for me at the moment,  I have to roll the front of my foot further down than expected to engage the brake.

    The service manual is on its way, in the mean time any suggestions ?
    2013 Trophy SE
    2013 Stelvio NTX
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  • Offline strathroy   ca

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    Offline strathroy

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    Re: Brake lever adjustment.
    Reply #1 on: Jan 04, 2014, 02.19 pm
    Jan 04, 2014, 02.19 pm
    Easy to do, just take off the fairing and loosen the locknuts and adjust. I found mine too low as well. You will have to adjust the switch for the back brake light switch also but that is easy to do too just a bit fiddely to get your fingers in.

  • Offline Coconut   gb

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    Offline Coconut

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    Re: Brake lever adjustment.
    Reply #2 on: Jan 05, 2014, 09.10 am
    Jan 05, 2014, 09.10 am
    Hi Ken,

    Removing the right hand Control Plate gives access to the Rear master Cylinder and Brake Light switch,
    but as you haven't got your Service Manual yet, be advised that the 3 bolts ( M8 x 1.25 x 30 - "Torx" heads )
    securing the Control Plate, ( see Photo ) should all be discarded and replaced with new ones when refitting .

    I haven't taken the Control Plate off my bike ( yet ) or made any adjustments here,
    so I'm unsure as to the correct method of adjusting the Brake pedal position.

    An adjustment can be made to the length of the Master Cyclinder pushrod - the recommended setting
    is a distance of 73.5mm from the centre of the lower Master cyclinder mounting hole,
    to the centre of the Clevis pin hole on the end of the push rod.

    The Brake light switch also looks like it can be adjusted by turning a retaining nut on the switch body.
    The recommended setting is to have a gap of 4mm from the top of the nut to the switch body.
    ( There's a retaining lug on the nut that has to be aligned with a cut out in the threaded part of the switch ).

    Last Edit: Jan 09, 2020, 06.59 pm by Coconut

  • Offline Queensland Ken

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    Offline Queensland Ken

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    Re: Brake lever adjustment.
    Reply #3 on: Jan 05, 2014, 11.32 am
    Jan 05, 2014, 11.32 am
    Tar for that Coconut,

    Had a looky at it this afternoon when it cooled down a bit.
    I gathered I had to remove the Control Plate, took one good look and filed it away until I get the manual, lol lol.
    Tried to gather some info from the spare parts microfiche.

    2013 Trophy SE
    2013 Stelvio NTX
    2007 FJR 1300

  • Offline towersk

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    Offline towersk

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    Re: Brake lever adjustment.
    Reply #4 on: Jan 05, 2014, 03.03 pm
    Jan 05, 2014, 03.03 pm
    There is a threaded rod inside of the barrel going to the master cylinder.  Just loosen the lock nut and rotate the barrel.  I removed the small trim cover (2-screws) on mine for access.  Took all of ten minutes.

    Cheers - Ken
    Cheers,
    Ken

  • Offline janfmiller   us

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    Offline janfmiller

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    Re: Brake lever adjustment. - Bolt discard???
    Reply #5 on: Jan 05, 2014, 07.46 pm
    Jan 05, 2014, 07.46 pm
    RE:   the 3 bolts ( M8 x 1.25 x 30 - "Torx" heads )  securing the Control Plate, ( see Photo ) should all be discarded and replaced with new ones when refitting .

    I've wondered about this.  Many bolts on the TTSE have a thread-locker applied to them.  They are to be discarded.

    Why not just use locktite on them and re-use them?   That's what I plan to do.  Seems wasteful to me to throw then away after one use.

    Anyway, I doubt if dealers are tossing these.  I had the front top fairing bit replaced on my Trophy (it had a molding flaw), and my dealership just reused the 'to be discarded' bolts, and as far as I know did not re-locktite either.   they are top center, so I've been keeping an eye on them... 
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  • Online Ernest T   us

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    Online Ernest T

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    Re: Brake lever adjustment. - Bolt discard???
    Reply #6 on: Jan 06, 2014, 01.07 am
    Jan 06, 2014, 01.07 am
    *Originally Posted by janfmiller [+]
    RE:   the 3 bolts ( M8 x 1.25 x 30 - "Torx" heads )  securing the Control Plate, ( see Photo ) should all be discarded and replaced with new ones when refitting .

    I've wondered about this.  Many bolts on the TTSE have a thread-locker applied to them.  They are to be discarded.

    Why not just use locktite on them and re-use them?   That's what I plan to do.  Seems wasteful to me to throw then away after one use.

    Anyway, I doubt if dealers are tossing these.  I had the front top fairing bit replaced on my Trophy (it had a molding flaw), and my dealership just reused the 'to be discarded' bolts, and as far as I know did not re-locktite either.   they are top center, so I've been keeping an eye on them...

    Most caliper bolts are the same--they are stretched when torqued.  Most people reuse them.

  • Offline Canes1   us

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    Offline Canes1

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    Re: Brake lever adjustment.
    Reply #7 on: May 31, 2020, 09.09 pm
    May 31, 2020, 09.09 pm
    Old thread I know but, just installed the Knights Design lowering foot pegs and, of course, had to lower shift and brake levers.
    The new pegs seem to sit almost 2" lower but, I don't believe I have that much adjustment for the brake lever.

    The end of the push rod seems to bottom out into the arm before I can get any more adjustment.
    Haven't test ridden yet but sat on bike and it's better but , would like to go a little lower!
    Any suggestions from an experienced brake lever adjuster would be great! :028:

    By the way, changing pivot bolts while there and they actually came out fairly easy (had blow torch on hand just in case). Greased them with some lithium grease and new bolts seemed to already have loctite applied.

    First pic of pushrod is before adjustment.


    Last Edit: May 31, 2020, 09.12 pm by Canes1

     



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