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Offline Coconut

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HOW TO : Check the most common faults & issues Page 3 ( P-Z )
« on: January 30, 2014, 07:45:33 AM »
Subjects are listed alphabetically. THIS IS PAGE 3 ( P - Z ).

PAGE 1 ( A - D ) CAN BE FOUND HERE :
HOW TO : Check the most common faults & issues Page 1

PAGE 2 ( E - O ) CAN BE FOUND HERE : HOW TO : Check the most common faults & issues Page 2

The intention of this Topic is to provide a Quick reference to apparently common faults or issues that you
may experience with your new Trophy, and to provide a few tips, and things to check that may help to resolve them.

TO KEEP THINGS “TIDY” THIS TOPIC HAS BEEN "LOCKED".
PLEASE SEND ME A PRIVATE MESSAGE WITH THE DETAILS OF NEW ITEMS TO BE ADD.
I WILL ACKNOWLEDGE ALL CONTRIBUTORS  :002:


The information given below is provided “as is”, with no guarantee that anything stated is factually correct.
Information has been drawn from a variety of sources, with the sole intention of providing POSSIBLE solutions to a variety of issues.

NOTE : Most faults and issues "should" be resolved by your Dealer under Warranty in the first 2 years.
It is your responsibility to ensure that any work you carry out does not invalidate such warranty.


P

PANNIERS

It is possible to fit the panniers incorrectly on the bike, especially if you are unfamiliar with them. 
See here for Photo’s showing how they should be fitted : Panniers fitted incorrectly

PANNIER ( and Top Box ) LOCK REMOVAL
Locks from the Trophy Panniers or Top Box CAN be removed without causing damage,
but require the use of a home made tool - see here for further information : Replacing Top Box Lock Barrel

PANNIER ( and Top Box ) RETAINING STRAPS

There is a risk of the Pannier or Top Box retaining straps detaching due to the relatively small size of the
pop rivet heads used to secure them, and with wear the rivets can pull through the hole in the strap.
This can result in the pannier lid striking the ground and damaging the paintwork  :138:

Triumph are aware of this and now have a modified fitting using a large headed washer which can be seen
in this post : Top Box Straps ( Post #35 )
With thanks to members davidcumbria and GJ-Trophy for this information


Q

R

REAR MUDGUARD ( Fender )

2012 and 2013 models are susceptible to spray / dirt thrown up by the rear wheel,
being deposited on the inner sides of the Side Panniers, Rear Light, Top Box, Pillion passengers legs etc.

A Triumph "Spray Guard" ( Mudguard / Fender extension piece ) is available which considerably reduces
the amount of spray and dirt thrown up,  keeping the bike ( and pillion ! ) cleaner.  Triumph Part Number : T2304609

Models from 2014 onwards ( "should" ) have this part included  :047:
With thanks to Member Saaz for confirming this.

Discussed here : Rear Fender Extension


S

SAT NAV

GARMIN ZUMO 660 - AUDIO NOT WORKING WHEN "NAV" IS SELECTED.

This is a common issue where the GPS mounting bracket and Garmin Cradle have been fitted by someone
( often the Triumph Dealer ) that is unaware there are dedicated audio and Power connectors
tucked away below the left hand mirror pod, often only accessible after removing the fairing. 
Invariably the audio connection has not been made.
More information on location of connections with Photo’s here :
Sat Nav Audio and Power connections

SCREEN - Retaining E-clips ( circlips )
Regularly check all four of the retaining E-Clips that hold the screen arms
onto the Windscreen Rail pivoting pins.
Some Members have reported that these can go missing ( possibly from incorrect fitting ).
If an E-Clip is missing, the pivot pin could work it's way and the screen become detached !


SCREEN - Not Parking / Freezing / Intermittent Operation
Several Members have reported problems with their Screen either not Parking,
Freezing mid-travel, or operating Intermittently. Some Members have had the Screen motor replaced,
and at least one Member's fault was traced to faulty wiring, requiring replacement of the loom.

Update 11/02/17 : With thanks to Member Mustangpilot :
A fault was identified where part of the wiring loom,
"... became dislodged from the clips and was damaged by the rear shock..."
See here for details : Inconsistent windscreen motor.
Repairs to the wiring loom have rectified the problem and the Screen works correctly again !

Using Triumph Diagnostic equipment, or after market equipment such as DealerTool,
a Calibration procedure can be performed which resets the Upper and Lower limit points.


SPEEDOMETER ( ANALOGUE ) - Speedo needle drops to Zero, then resumes.

A number of owners have reported this issue, accompanied by disengaging of Cruise Control,
if engaged at the time.  With thanks to Member "william", who had this problem - his Dealer
found a faulty Ignition Switch and replacing it cured the problem.

Topic ( and others ) discussed here :
Analogue Speedometer Needle and here :  Power shutdown while riding


STAND

Centre Stand Recall

December 2013 : There has been a recall of some Trophy's to have a modified strengthening bracket fitted.
Details here : RECALL - Centre Stand Modification
NOTE : The bracket prevents removal of a nut for dismantling of part of the rear suspension link,
which needs to be removed for Servicing / Periodic Lubrication.  The bracket can be removed,
then the Suspension link nut and bolt removed and turned around so that the nut is accessible
when the Bracket is refitted.  More details here : Rear suspension linkage maintenance
With thanks to Member 1675 for this information.


Centre Stand - Getting the bike on and off it !

Discussed at length here : Centre Stand - Is it me ?


SUSPENSION ( FRONT ) STRANGE "CLICKING" NOISE WHEN COMPRRESSING FORKS

See : Page 2, FORKS - "CLICKING" NOISE WHEN COMPRESSED



T

TEST RIDE

Many Trophy owners have reported that they were compelled to purchase a Trophy
after returning from a Test Ride on one  :001: YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED !


TES ( TRIUMPH ELECTRONIC SUSPENSION ) - CALIBRATION & ADJUSTMENT

Anyone unfamiliar with the TES system can be forgiven for thinking they may have a fault when they don’t !

Once you understand how the system is adjusted, and how it Calibrates itself,
those flashing warning lights make a lot more sense !

After changing Load / Mode settings - and when the engine is running, the TES will "Adjust"  ….
"Please Wait - TES System - Adjustment in progress" will be in the Display,
and the TES warning light will flash once per second. 

"Adjustment complete" will be displayed when ..... it is !

If the engine is NOT running when the alteration is made to the Load / Mode settings,
then the settings are saved until the engine is started, then the adjustment is made as above.

If, however, the engine is NOT started AND the Ignition is switched off, then the settings are NOT saved !

In addition to "Adjustment", the TES System will also "Calibrate" :

The Damper adjustment motor is Calibrated each time the Ignition is switched on, and should take 2 - 3 seconds.

The Pre-load motor Calibration is performed after each 50 Ignition On cycles,
and should take 20 - 30 seconds - the Calibration commences after the engine has been started.
NOTE : Version 1 of the Owners Handbook states this is performed every 20 cycles -
This has been corrected to 50 cycles in the updated and current Version 2 of the Owners Handbook ).

The TES warning light will flash at the rate of twice per second while the system is Calibrating.

It is IMPORTANT to follow the correct engine start up procedure :

Switch on the Ignition and allow the Damper calibration to complete -
i.e. after the Warning light has stopped flashing ( 2 - 3 seconds ), and then start the engine....

IF the TES warning light starts flashing again, after the engine has started,
this will be due to the Pre-load calibration taking place, so do NOT commence riding,
and WAIT for up to 30 seconds  for the flashing to stop, indicating that Calibration is complete.   

Failing to allow the Calibration to complete will result in the Calibration failing.
The TES Warning Light will then stay on permanently until the system next successfully calibrates.  


THROTTLE - CLOSES WHILE RIDING

Page 67 of the on line Owners Handbook "BRAKE USE" advises that if the Throttle is open more than 20 degrees,
and the brakes are applied for more than 2 seconds, the Throttle will close and engine power will be reduced.
"Riding" the brake pedal or an incorrectly adjusted Brake Light switch - causing the brake light
to be permanently "ON" could result in such Throttle closure which will appear to be a fault.
With thanks to Member "recap0006" for highlighting this potential issue.

THROTTLE - SURGES or CLOSES or UNUSUAL OPERATION

Some Members have found, particularly after Maintenance / Servicing work,
that the engine is prone to Surging, or losing power, or other unexpected operation,
and is sometimes diagnosed as a Faulty Throttle Position Sensor ( TPS ),
when the actual cause has been the throttle bodies not being connected and seated correctly,
resulting in air leaks and / or the butterfly valves being obstructed from moving freely.
More information here : P2111, P2119 may be caused by throttle bodies not seated.
With thanks to Member unsubtle for this information.

TOP BOX - LOCK REMOVAL
See above - "PANNIER ( and Top Box ) LOCK REMOVAL"

TOP BOX RETAINING STRAPS
See above - "PANNIER ( and Top Box ) STRAPS"


TPMS ( TYRE PRESSURE MONITORING SYSTEM )

No pressure indication when Stationary ?

That is NORMAL - the pressures are only indicated when the bike is moving.
Tyre pressures should be set when cold, and the TPMS system should not be used
as a means of setting the normal tyre pressures.

Note that when riding, the tyres will heat up causing the air inside the tyres to expand,
and will increase the pressure by several PSI.

More information, including discussion about changing tyres without damaging the TPMS sensors,
( which are part of the valve assembly inside each tyre ),can be found here :
Changing tyres without damaging the TPMS sensor
and discussion about the TPMS battery and replacement here :
Tyre pressure sensor battery replacement


No TPMS displayed on Instrument Panel Centre Line ( Blank Display )

This has happened to at least 2 Members so is worthy of mentioning here.
The reason has not been fully determined,  but it seems that this can happen if either :

There is a fault with one of the TPMS Sensors fitted, or

One of the Tyre pressures is particularly low ( below 40 psi has been mentioned ),
in which case increasing the Pressure to specified cold temperature pressures has restored the display.

Discussed in more detail ( with Photo's ) here : Wheels & Tyres >> "Why This ?"
With thanks to members "biboy" and "sungunr" for the information.



TPS ( THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR )

See "ENGINE CONTROL MODULE (ECM) RECALL" ( On PAGE 1 )
It is likely that a number of suspected faulty Throttle Position Sensors are not faulty,
but are reacting to electrical interference within the ECM.
Check first that your ECM has been replaced if your VIN is within the range 561284 to 637165.
( With thanks to Member "DonTom" )

See also "ENGINE CUTS OUT" ( On [https://www.triumph-trophy.com/index.php/topic,1648.0.html]PAGE 2[/url] )
and "ENGINE WON'T START" ( On [https://www.triumph-trophy.com/index.php/topic,1648.0.html]PAGE 2[/url] )
and "THROTTLE - CLOSES WHILE RIDING" ( above ).


U

USB AUDIO

See    “AUDIO” : ( On PAGE 1 )
“USB audio not working from iPod / iPhone” ( On PAGE 1 )
“USB Memory Stick / Media Player will not play” ( On PAGE 1 )


V

VALVE TRAIN ( Noise / Rattle )
See : "ENGINE - RATTLE" ( On PAGE 1 )

VIN NUMBER

The VIN ( Vehicle Identification Number ) can be found on your Registration Papers. 
It is also stamped into the Steering Head area of the frame, and is also on a metal plate
which is rivetted to the left side of the steering head. ( The area below the left handlebar ).


W

WHEELS

Front Wheel Wobble

Owners of some new Trophy's have reported a light front wheel “wobble”,
particularly when slowing down gently from around 50MPH,
and when the handlebars are not being gripped firmly.

In most cases this has been as a result of the front wheel being out of balance,
or wear ( particularly "cupping" ) of the front tyre.

There has also been at least one similar problem as a result of the front tyre being "out of round"
( spotted when spinning the wheel and viewing side on ) - possibly as a result of being left
strapped down in a crate for prolonged periods prior to sale.
Have your Dealer / tyre fitter check for "Out of Round", wear and balance.
With thanks to Member Timo for this information.

Update 13/10/16 : A further cause has been identified due to the Wheel not being balanced correctly,
where "Static Balancing" has been used and the required weights only placed
on one side of the rim, instead of being split equally on both sides. 
More information here : Front tire balancing and new PR4 GT
With thanks to Member RPDATA for this information.


Removing Wheels
See here : HOW TO : Remove wheels ( with thanks to Member "crazyman" )[/url

WINDSCREEN -  See "SCREEN".
   

X

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« Last Edit: September 29, 2018, 07:43:00 PM by Coconut »
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