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Offline rwright13

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Alternator Output, Heated Gear
« on: November 27, 2014, 06:05:03 pm »
Sorry to start a new topic on this, but the old one I found didn't quite cover my concern.
https://www.triumph-trophy.com/index.php/topic,136.msg355.html#msg355

The 2014 manual now on page 172 says alternator output is 70 amps at 12 volts and 4,000 rpm.  I'm guessing this is probably low because to charge the battery the alternator would have to put out around 13.2 volts, right?  Has anyone checked the voltage output with a meter?

Anyway, it's plenty to power a full set of heated gear (pants, jacket, gloves, socks plus charging devices).  I use a home-wired set of Fieldsheer jacket and pants plus Gerbings gloves and socks with a WarmNSafe dual controller.  Total amp draw when the controller is set to maximum is probably around 12 amps just based on the measured resistance of all the articles.  Although I can't see ever using this setup on maximum (in Oklahoma) I'm curious to know if it will blow the 10 amp fuse on the rider DIN socket.  Has anyone else used a similar load of heated gear plugged into the outlet?  Anyone ever blown the 10 Amp fuse and how?  What is the wire gauge of this circuit?

Offline DonTom

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Re: Alternator Output, Heated Gear
« Reply #1 on: November 27, 2014, 06:59:20 pm »
*Originally Posted by rwright13 [+]
The 2014 manual now on page 172 says alternator output is 70 amps at 12 volts and 4,000 rpm.  I'm guessing this is probably low because to charge the battery the alternator would have to put out around 13.2 volts, right?  Has anyone checked the voltage output with a meter?
I have noticed that the term "12 volts" is used very loosely.  I could give many examples, such as my "12 volt" (as it says right in the specs)  battery maintainers.  They are really at ~13.4 VDC when the battery is connected,  but they call this "12 volts", perhaps because most people think of the battery as 12 volts and are more familiar with the term "12 volts".

BTW, it will take some time for  a new 10  amp fuse to blow even at 12 amps, unless it's a fast-blow fuse. Most fuses are  very inaccurate--it's more of a current &  time type of deal. With a normal blade fuse, as with our TTSEs,  it will probably take many hours of 12 amps to blow a ten amp fuse--unless the fuse is very old, which seems to reduce  the time it takes to blow. In fact, a very old (many years) ten amp fuse can then blow even well below the ten amp rating. Then they blow with a hairline crack.  Fuses can crap out under normal conditions just like any other electronic component, but with higher current fuses, such as ten amps, you can tell which happened.

A wider blow means it was blown from being way over the current rating, such as a dead short.

-Don-  Reno, NV
1971 Black BMW R75/5/* 1984 Red Yamaha Venture* 2002 Yellow Suzuki DR200SE* 2013 Blue Triumph Trophy SE*2016 Orange/Black Kaw Versy 650 LT*2016 Orange Moto Guzzi Stelvio* 2017 Gold/Black Harley FLTRU RoadGlide Ultra*2017 Zero 6.5DS* 2017 Zero SR13 w/Pwr Tank*2020 Energica SS9

Offline rwright13

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Re: Alternator Output, Heated Gear
« Reply #2 on: November 27, 2014, 07:12:17 pm »
Thanks Don. Great info.  BTW the measured voltage output on my TTSE is 14.5 V.  So a better estimate of maximum current draw is 13.2 amps.

Regards, Richard

Offline DonTom

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Re: Alternator Output, Heated Gear
« Reply #3 on: November 27, 2014, 08:25:36 pm »
*Originally Posted by rwright13 [+]
Thanks Don. Great info.  BTW the measured voltage output on my TTSE is 14.5 V.  So a better estimate of maximum current draw is 13.2 amps.Regards, Richard
You might notice that 14.5 volts varies a lot, which is normal.

In my GM cars, I have noticed that when the battery is discharged a bit (such as  been sitting unused for a week), the charging current is quite high just after being first started bringing  the voltage up close to 15 volts for the first ten minutes or so. After a long drive, the engine running voltage drops to 13.4 volts or so, which is just right to maintain the charge.

I never bothered to make the same experiment with my TTSE, but don't be surprised if the voltage is less (engine running) after a long ride, as the VR drops the battery charging current which drops the charging voltage to prevent overcharging.

BTW, it normally takes at least four hours of riding/driving, in any vehicle, to completely charge up a good but well discharged  battery that will barely start the engine to begin with.

-Don-  Reno, NV

1971 Black BMW R75/5/* 1984 Red Yamaha Venture* 2002 Yellow Suzuki DR200SE* 2013 Blue Triumph Trophy SE*2016 Orange/Black Kaw Versy 650 LT*2016 Orange Moto Guzzi Stelvio* 2017 Gold/Black Harley FLTRU RoadGlide Ultra*2017 Zero 6.5DS* 2017 Zero SR13 w/Pwr Tank*2020 Energica SS9

Offline Saaz

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Re: Alternator Output, Heated Gear
« Reply #4 on: November 27, 2014, 10:43:44 pm »
The voltage at idle or riding along on the TT is either 14.5 or 14.6 volts regardless of how long the bike has been running.  This has been in hotter weather since I had a CB radio that can show volts as an option. In colder weather it might be slightly different initially as the battery can take on more charge, at least that is how my ST1100 did things.