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Offline MikeDH

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Check Engine Light
« on: April 21, 2015, 09:43:25 pm »
Thanks to some very helpful contributors on this forum, I was able to get my new Zumo 660 paired to my bike in a way that allows both incoming and outgoing calls through my headset. Details are in the Audio, SatNav section. The problem is, I spent some time playing with the pairings with the ignition on and the motor off. I managed to run down the battery such that I got nothing when I tried to start the bike and TC (traction control) warning light came on. After plugging in my battery tender for about 20 minutes, I got some clicking, but the engine would not turn over. After an hour or so on the tender, I can now start the bike and it seems to run fine, but the  check engine light is lit up.  I also had to pull the audio system fuse since I was getting the "no audio found" warning on start-up. The audio system is working again, and the TC warning light is off, but not sure what to do about the check engine light. I'm waiting for a call back from the dealer on whether I need to bring it in.  Any suggestions would be appreciated.
The only reason for time is so that everything doesn't happen at once. Albert Einstein

Offline paulbaker1954

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Re: Check Engine Light
« Reply #1 on: April 21, 2015, 10:09:08 pm »
I would guess you need to clear fault codes from the ecu

Your stealer can of course do this but you could also invest in the android version of tuneecu or dealer tool if you are planning on doing more self maintenace
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Offline cropbiker

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Re: Check Engine Light
« Reply #2 on: April 21, 2015, 10:52:57 pm »
Yes... It is probably to do with fault codes. If the fault is no longer present and by charging the bike it shouldn't be, then after a few riding cycles it should clear from current memory and no longer illuminate the light. If it is still there after you have been out half a dozen times then I would say the dealer needs to get involved.
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Offline MikeDH

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Re: Check Engine Light
« Reply #3 on: April 21, 2015, 11:32:28 pm »
Sure enough, I just started it up again and once it warmed up the check engine light went off. Thanks for the replies.
The only reason for time is so that everything doesn't happen at once. Albert Einstein

Offline w8d4it

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Re: Check Engine Light
« Reply #4 on: April 22, 2015, 04:45:51 am »
You may want to consider investing in Dealer Tool. I think you will find it comes in handy at times like these
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Offline Gordon3xBBB

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Re: Check Engine Light
« Reply #5 on: April 22, 2015, 06:55:14 am »
Playing with electrics is my preferred method of flattening a Battery......  :034: Then you put it back on charge and all should be well...

It might be the Battery will now require a Full Charge, rather than an hour on a Battery Tender - I do hope that's not a "Trickle Charger - before venturing out on a Ride. I usually find 50 miles minimum is good to get the battery charge back up to spec' but these TT(SE) have a heavy electrical demand and the more "Toys" you have switched ON during your normal ride the less Charge will get to the Battery.

The TTSE has a humungeous Alternator to cope with these demands under normal circumstances, but starting out from a "Low Charge" point may bring in the EMC "I ain't got enough charge so I'm shutting down mode" so you come to a halt with the Engine Warning Light back on again.

Being a 2013 Bike the Battery could be fast approaching the end of it's useful life, unless you've kept the Battery Fully Charged by regular riding or regular periods on a Battery Charger.

My own 2012 TTSE had a Battery on the "Low Side" when I bought her in January this year with only 12.3 volts at the Terminals. I didn't want to risk getting stranded so replaced the Battery at the first opportunity - but I went the Lithium Ferro Phosphate (LiFEPo4) route which has a higher Terminal Voltage etc, does not "lose charge" at anything like the rate of a Lead-Acid Battery and should last between 7 and 10 years..

Keep an eye on the Battery - just a thought...
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Offline Coconut

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Re: Check Engine Light
« Reply #6 on: April 22, 2015, 08:38:27 am »
Hi MikeDH - Glad to hear you got the Audio sorted  :028:

If you have a look at this Message you will find instructiions on how to have any "Diagnostic Trouble Codes"
( DTC's ) displayed on the Instrument panel : Servicing Data and Reference Information
together with a Word document attached at the bottom of Reply #8 that allows you look up what the Codes mean.

I would expect, as Cropbiker says, that after a few "good" cycles, the "Check Engine Light" -
which Triumph refer to as the "Malfunction Indicator Light" or "MIL", will extinguish.

Most of the DTC's have settings that determine how many No Fault cycles there need to be before the MIL extinguishes,
often this is THREE, and also how many No Fault cycles before the DTC is erased from memory - often FORTY.

So check to see what Codes you have - Low Battery problems can cause all sorts of spurious DTC's to appear !

If the MIL goes out after a few Normal starts, check again in a few days time and those DTC's
will probably have cleared from the Memory.

If the MIL  DOES stay on, then you'll need to visit the Dealer, but at least you'll be able to tell them
what DTC's are coming up before going there, so they have an idea of what to expect !  :028:

Keep us posted  :169:



« Last Edit: April 22, 2015, 06:55:22 pm by Coconut »

Offline MikeDH

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Re: Check Engine Light
« Reply #7 on: April 22, 2015, 10:40:20 pm »
Thanks to all for the helpful comments. The fault apparently has cleared as I no longer have any warning lights lit up. I don't know how the battery was treated in its early life, as I picked it up pre-owned. Based on another thread, I'm pretty much convinced the stock battery is not as robust as it could be and that an investment in the Shorai 27 Ah lithium battery could avoid a lot of these types of issues. Amazon sells it for about $220 delivered, which may be money well spent. Thanks again.
The only reason for time is so that everything doesn't happen at once. Albert Einstein

 



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