LiFePO4 replacement battery

[dsinned]

I just swapped batteries in my bike.     

I had a "spare" (still new) Li-ion intended for another bike, but never used.  It's actually a "LiFePO4 (Lithium Iron Phosphate) type that I bought online from a manufacturer named SHORAI for around $170, model no. LFX18L1-BS12. I now see another company selling the same model for only $85 on Amazon.com.  This isn't the recommended model to replace the OEM battery, but it matches the specs exactly and has +/- terminals in the correct locations to be a simple drop-in replacement.  The "recommended" (27AH) battery would cost considerably more.

Triumph's OEM battery is rated for 18 AH and 270 CCA.  The lithium battery I'm using is also rated at 18 AH and 270 CCA, and weighs significantly less; about 2.5 lbs compared to the OEM battery's 13.6 lbs.  That amounts to fairly significant weight saving!  Plus, now my TTSE's battery compartment has extra space to mount an alarm system module inside next to the battery to help everything from sliding around.  You still need to put some bubble wrap around the sides and top of the battery to snug up under the rubber hold down strap. 

The BMS interface cable connects to a small connector on the center top side of the battery and easily routes out from under the box cover (RH side of the tank) without pinching it.  The end of the cable hangs free underneath, and can be nicely "hidden" in the void along the lower portion of the steering column on the RH side.  The end comes with a tethered rubber sealing cap to prevent any water intrusion.  The completed installation takes no more than 15-30  minutes.

With this new battery installed, my TTSE still works fine - no DTCs or other issues - at least so far.   

I did this mod mainly because my bike will generally NOT be used five days a week for commuting service.  Also, when the riding season is over, it will probably sit in my garage for weeks (perhaps even months?) on end.  Compared to much larger and heavier Pb acid batteries, the main advantage of lithium's is they can hold a charge for a long time; as much as a year!

It's not nearly as cheap as using a Battery Tender to keep a tradition battery from discharging, but a significant weight savings over its Pb acid counterpart is the other major advantage.

Anybody else do this simple - not necessarily cheap - mod to their TTSE?

[Coconut]

Anybody else do this simple - but not necessarily cheap - mod to their TTSE?

Yep -

: "Lifepo4" = 19 results, notably :

Alternative Battery - the LiFePo4 option and

Shorai Lithium Battery part number where it seems the recommended Lithium replacement
for the stock Yuasa 18Ah Lead acid battery, is a 27Ah Lithum, Part Number  LFX27L3-BS12.

A "like for like" 18aH Lithium may be OK,
but possibly not in colder weather / climates especially below Freezing point.

[w8d4it]

You have a riding season in San Jose??????????

[Volfy]

Look at Shorai's list for the Explorer, which has the same OEM Yuasa batt and similar electrical requirement.  They recommend either LFX36L3-BS 12 or LFX27L3-BS12.  Same case, but the 36 has higher capacity.  I'm planning on getting the 36.  I have 2 Shorai's in my other bikes and they have worked flawlessly.  Around here, lead acid batts, even good ones like Yuasa and well maintained, don't seem to last much more that 3-4yr.  My oldest Shorai is about that old and is still going strong.

Note that Shorai's Ah ratings are not exactly the same as with lead acid batts.  Read their FAQ for details.  Personally, I would get the largest that'll fit the batt compartment, especially on a touring bike.

[dsinned]

Thanks for the feedback.  I'm going to give the spare LiFePO4 battery I already have a try and see if it is up to the task.  So far, the lithium in my Daytona has been fine starting up the bike after many months in storage and surely that is the highest possible initial load on the battery.  I checked the OEM Yuasa battery that came from the factory in my TTSE and it is rated for 18AH and 270CCA, exactly the same as the spare Shorai I just installed.  I think that is the main consideration in terms of battery capacity and interchangeability.  Going higher up the food chain likely will result in spending a more money while adding a slightly higher weight penalty.  I'll report back if I experience any unexpected problems.
   
Btw, there is a more favorable "riding season" in San Jose as well as almost anywhere else.  It's the time of year when it is least likely to rain!   

[Gordon3xBBB]

Yes, I did this change to LiFePo4 back in January 2015, two days after I bought my Used, 8.5K Miles '12TTSE....and blethered on about it on this Forum.
There were a few people interested at the time but some dismissed my claims as to weight saving and performance, especially in cold weather.
I'm not too bothered about the Cold Weather performance because when the OAT gets down to 3 degrees C or less I won't be riding. U.K. roads are bad enough without the added hazard of black ice and "untreated roads.
As my Bikes live in a garage where the temperature rarely gets below 2 degrees C, the "Cold Starting" is not a problem and certainly wasn't during my 1,500 mile "Getting to know you" programme back in January.

I have been using a single LiFePo4 Battery to power my brace of First Generation Trophies for two years now...no problems whatsoever. The couple of times I thought the battery could do with a Charge after "Electrical Work" on my bikes has meant nothing more than 12 to 15 minutes on the dedicated charger before it's all OK again.

I also have a LiFePo4 battery in my Golf Trolley. Charging time is rarely more than 2 hours after 4 hours usage - that's a great saving over the "Keep it constantly connected to the Battery Tender when not in use" instruction that came with the Lead Acid Battery.

Much longer life, better starting even after the Bike has been left standing for up to fours weeks (not connected to anything) and losing 10 lbs in weight so high up the bike.... What's not to like about these batteries ?

If you can afford a Trophy, you can afford a LiFePo4..

[dsinned]

I left my bike sitting overnight till late this afternoon with the new battery installed, before subsequently connecting Shorai's BMS module.  Just for added peace of mind, after ~30 hours with the battery sitting at rest under "housekeeping load", I checked the terminal voltage.  Using a precision multi meter it read ~13.4V.  Then, I started the engine for a few minutes to check again.  (Btw, it started right up on the first crank.)  With the engine still idling and therefore slow charging the battery, it read ~14.4V.  Even with the revs up a bit to force a higher charging rate, the voltage remained at that same level.  PERFECT!   

I recommend if there are any other fellow members here contemplating this same mod to their bikes to read the FAQs at the following Shorai website link:  http://shoraipower.com/faq

[TTSE14]

Reviving an older thread, but relevant due to cold weather operating conditions:  I copied a FAQ from the Shorai's website.  I was surprised that in cold temperatures a LIFePo4 battery should be "warmed up" prior to cranking an engine, by turning on a load or headlight anywhere from 30 seconds to 4 or 5 minutes.  Although I understand the principle, it seems odd to discharge the battery prior to attempting to apply a higher crank load.

Q. Cold Weather Performance Expectations?

Dr Shock Says "BRR Warm me up!!!"
 
A. Down to about 20 degrees Fahrenheit (-7C) most users find that they can start normally on first crank. If your headlight comes on at key-ON, it is good for the batteries to flow some current before cranking in cold weather. The suggested headlight-on time before cranking depends on the temperature. If starting at 40F/5C, 30 seconds will help wake the battery and increase cranking performance. If at 0F/-17C, leave the lights on for 4~5 minutes before cranking. The result will be a better first crank, and longer battery life.  If the engine fails to start on first crank, that first crank has warmed the battery, and the second attempt will be much stronger. Other accessories that can be turned on before cranking can also be used for this purpose, such as heated gear, radio, etc...  Insuring that the battery is fully charged after storage also improves first-start performance in cold weather.

Also something I can't get used to is the higher at rest, static voltage of these batteries: 14.340 volts equals 100 percent charge, vs 12.6 volts equals 100 percent charge for a lead acid battery.  My current battery maintainers usually maintain 13.2 volts; rendering them not suitable for the new technology batteries.