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Offline Ernest T

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Clutch Slave Cylinder Replacement
« on: September 16, 2015, 11:57:33 pm »
It doesn't take long to do and it's not that expensive a repair either. 

You need the salve cylinder, the slave cylinder gasket, two sealing washers for the clutch line and oil, filter and crush washer to change the oil when you're done.  The manual says to discard the bolts securing the slave cylinder cover, but that does't make any sense.  The cover is plastic and is only tightened to 4 nm so it's not critical.  I put some blue loctite on the threads and reused the bolts.

It's nice to have a large area to work in.



The clutch slave cylinder is behind this plastic cover secured by the five 8mm bolts.



Here's the slave cylinder after the cover is removed.  Remove the three bolts and the banjo bolt to loosen the slave cylinder from  the clutch.



It's surrounded by this foam padding.  It's only glued at one small spot at the bottom.  I didn't want to take a chance that it would get soaked with brake fluid so I just pulled it out.



It doesn't say to, but I took the top off the clutch reservoir to let the fluid flow out the bottom of the hose better.  Disconnect the banjo bolt at the slave cylinder and put the end of the hose in a container.  It's only got a little play so you need a tall narrow container.  I used a Gatorade bottle.




Once the fluid is out of the slave cylinder, remove the three bolts and take it out, replace it with the new one and reconnect the three bolts and banjo bolt.

Then you bleed the system.  I used a vacuum pump.



Don't let the reservoir run dry while bleeding or you'll have to start over again. I used a plastic bag to make sure I didn't get brake fluid on the bodywork.  You also need some below the engine because when you remove the banjo bolt, fluid drips out of the slave cylinder too.



Here's a pic of the old and new cylinder.  I couldn't get the piston out by hand and had to blow it out with compressed air.



old one



new one



I wonder if the seal didn't get stuck between the piston and cylinder wall when it was assembled at the factory and just wear off that loose piece.
« Last Edit: September 16, 2015, 11:59:11 pm by Ernest T »

Offline trophied

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Re: Clutch Slave Cylinder Replacement
« Reply #1 on: September 17, 2015, 12:10:20 am »
Great info and photos in case any of the rest of us need to do this.  Possibly a faulty method of assembly at the plant initially?
Thanks,
Glenn
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Offline atrophy

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Re: Clutch Slave Cylinder Replacement
« Reply #2 on: September 17, 2015, 12:40:20 am »
Well done, thank you!
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Offline Coconut

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Re: Clutch Slave Cylinder Replacement
« Reply #3 on: September 17, 2015, 09:22:35 am »
Nice job  :028:

That piece of seal looks like it's been torn off, so could well have happened at first assembly,
and looks very much like what also happened to member John348 !

« Last Edit: June 08, 2020, 02:33:04 pm by Coconut »

Offline Stelyn

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Re: Clutch Slave Cylinder Replacement
« Reply #4 on: September 17, 2015, 09:42:22 am »
 :460:  well done..... :028:
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Offline cropbiker

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Re: Clutch Slave Cylinder Replacement
« Reply #5 on: September 17, 2015, 12:32:17 pm »
Another very useful and well documented How To article. Some benefit for us all. Thanks for taking the time to write it up so well
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Offline Gordon3xBBB

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Re: Clutch Slave Cylinder Replacement
« Reply #6 on: September 17, 2015, 06:02:45 pm »
Agree, Big Thanks to Ernest T  :047:
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Offline john348

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Re: Clutch Slave Cylinder Replacement
« Reply #7 on: September 26, 2015, 05:53:02 pm »
The piece out of the seal looks remarkably similar what happened to mine.  Which is a bit of a coincidence???

Good write up.  I just changed the seal and spring that came in the kit.  I also did not change the bolts.  Just cleaned up the threads and used loctite under the heads (I know this has been discussed other places).