Removing Shifter Lever

[PoconoTTSE]

Changed riding boot brand (Forma's) and toebox a little thick and not ideal to get in under the shifter, on an average bike, loosen the lever, take off spline move up a click (or two) now with the Trophy where not much is average (mostly a good thing) I see this whole panel assembly that pretty much covers the shifter assembly.  I saw a post here : https://www.triumph-trophy.com/index.php/topic,4698.msg59748.html#msg59748 on the forum somewhat warning against.  Is the shifter mount not a simple 1-bolt loosen and remove, how would moving it up on the spline affect shifting?  That post also reccomended removing the rubber off of the foot peg - rather not?  Confused?!?

[Studley]

Hey Pocono, can't coach you on steps to re-config the shift lever on your Trophy cause that was one of the first things I asked my dealer to do before I picked up the bike. As far as your question regarding does moving lever one or two splines affect shifting. Not at all. I did the adjustment myself on my Explorers and it presented no issue. Both bikes shifted like butter as does my Trophy.

If I may offer one bit of coaching on the shifting of the Triumph 1200 triples, some people complain of a clunky 1st to 2nd shift at low speeds. That can be true in my experience. If however, you adjust your shift procedure from 1st to 2nd while at those crawling low speeds to a 1/2 shift to neutral followed by a snick into 2nd it eliminates the clunk in my experience. Double clutch with a throttle blip in neutral is optional. :>)

I don't expect you will have an issue with the shifting on the Trophy as it is pretty slick overall. I have not removed rubber off shift lever and personally cannot see what that would accomplish

YMMV
Hope that helps

Studley

[Coconut]

Some useful information here - Sheared Gear Lever Mounting Bolt
inlcuding details of an error in the Service Manual !

The Service Manual gives a specific measurement for the length
of the adjustable connecting rod, as shown below.

The lower pivot of the Gear Pedal is NOT splined.
( This is the part that some Members have had shear off ! )

The upper pivot for the Gear Pedal Linkage to Gearbox shaft IS splined -
there is a punched dot on the end of the shaft which should be lined up,
as shown below to achieve the correct position.

[OHRider]

I had the same problem with my new boots. I was able to adjust the connecting rod to raise the shifter. Now I can get my toe under the shifter.

[AZBob]

So, I need to do this too... I assume that 95mm length on the connecting rod and the punch mark are just there so you can get the thing back to the stock configuration if it's taken apart? I further assume shortening up the connecting rod is a perfectly viable solution to raising the shift lever?

[Coconut]

Shortening the link rod will raise the pedal position.

There was a VERY early ( March 2013 ? ) Technical Service Bulletin ( 486 ? ) concerning the Gear Pedal position,
but I've never been able to get hold of a copy, so I'm not sure what the reason for it was.

To shorten the rod - undo the lock nuts - one at each end
( remembering that the LOWER one has a Left Hand thread,
NOT the Upper one as incorrectly stated in the Service Manual ! ),
and the Upper one has a right hand thread.

Standing at the side of the Trophy looking at link rod,
the side of it nearest to you should be rotated to the right
which will screw it equally into the upper and lower mountings,
shortening it's overall length, and raising the pedal position.