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Offline janfmiller

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How To: Adjust TTSE Valves
« on: December 20, 2015, 12:13:00 am »
Please PM me if you find any errors..

Triumph Trophy 1200 Valve Adjustment Procedure:

Disclaimer:  I am not a trained Triumph Mechanic.  While I did use the Triumph Trophy 1200 Service Manual as a guide, I do not claim this proceedure will be approved by Triumph or correct for you.  It worked for me.  Use entirely at your own discretion and risk.

Laying a large white towel under the bike is a huge help to find small bits if you drop something.

Remove the fairing, fuel tank, and airbox per the Service Manual.

Protect the throttle bodies by stuffing them with clean shop towels.  Don't forget to clean them per the manual.

You'll want to have on hand:
Torque wrench
New gaskets for everything.  ( it's too hard to disassemble this bike to scrimp on reusing gaskets!)
Micrometer
Silicone sealer
Spark Plugs if you are changing them..  ( you are probably in here for 20K maint so required)
Spark plug wrench
Anti-seize compound
Air compressor and air gun.


Clean the area thoroughly with an air gun.  Stuff clean clothes around the valve cover to prevent anything from falling into the crevasses of the bike.



Remove the lower bolt on the air defector and loosen the top and move the deflector out of the way..



Remove the 3 coils from the spark plugs after disconnectiong the electrical connects.  I like to label them first.  They are very tight, so wiggle them back and forth gently while pulling up, you can use a pair of pliers to help grip, but be very careful.



Next remove the breather hoses from the valve cover noting their orientation.



Remove the air deflector 'wings' and their ratched-button connectors from each side of the air guide on the front of the valve cover on top of the reed valve covers.  I could not find these pieces on the parts diagram.



Remove the cables from the clip at the right end of the air deflector.  Note how the front fits into the bike.



Take the front two bolts out of the reed valve covers and remove the air deflector, then replace the bolts in the reed valve covers.



Thoroughly blow any debris out of the spark plug holes BUT DON'T REMOVE THE PLUGS YET.

Remove the two bolts to allow the wiring plate on the left side to move out of the way of the valve cover.





Pop the clutch line out of the clip on the right side of the frame.



It's helpful to use zip ties and get the cables on the right side as out of the way as possible.



Loosen the six valve cover bolts in a criss-cross pattern according to the service manual and remove them.  Note that the two right hand bolts are shorter than the other four.



Remove the four bolts holding the reed valve covers on and remove them.



The valve cover can now be removed.   There is a large assembly on the rear left that fouls the cover.  I was able to get it free by pulling back on the assembly 'firmly'.



Note the position of the dowels in the cam 'ladder'

Remove the spark plug hole gasket.

Remove the spark plugs to allow the engine to turn over more easily.   I had one plug VERY tight, and had to flood it's cavity with penetrating oil and work it back and forth many times to get it out.  Using anti-seize when reassembling is highly recommended.

I put the bike in 5th gear, and used the rear wheel to 'bump' the engine over to position the cam lobes away from their respective valves.   The manual says to remove the crankshaft cover on the right side, but I deferred that until I actually had to change shims.

Turn the engine until the cam lobes point away from their valves.
Cylinders are numbered from left to right 1-2-3.




You can check the valves in three steps:

#1 intake & #2 exhaust
#2 intake & #3 exhaust
#3 intake &  #1 exhaust

Valve Clearances are:   
   EXHAUST:   .011 - .013 ( .275MM - .325MM )       
   INTAKE:  .004 - .006   ( .10MM - .15MM )

Don't forget each cylinder has 2 intake valves and 2 exhaust valves.

I normally use the “If a .004 will go and a .007 won't go we're good” method, that shows you are within the specified range.

If not, measure carefully the exact clearance the valve has.

Record the clearances you find on a sheet for later reference.

If all the clearances are within range, button the bike back up in reverse order of disassemble.

You might want to:

   Check throttle body balance
   Replace or clean your spark plugs
   Tighten all fasteners everywhere, especially cooling system hose clamps, even replacing what you can get at with higher quality clamps
   Check your coolant level, or change the antifreeze if it's due ( 3 year intervals )

If you need to change valve clearances, read on.

You'll need a shim kit.  Required shims are 9.48mm dia.



And a micrometer.  I use an inexpensive Harbor Freight model.  Just be sure you know how to use it properly.


Remove the crankshaft cover from the right side of the engine.





Make sure the pins remain in place in the engine to anchor the cam chain guides.


Remove the Cam Cover seals from the cam ladder.

Rotate the engine until the marks on the cam sprockets point at each other and align with the head gasket sealing surface.




Insert a 6mm dia pin ( a long screw works fine ) through the right engine case into the hole in the crankshaft ( ABSOLUTELY ENSURE THIS IS DONE PROPERLY )  I had a 6mm drill so used that )



Remove this coolant hose clamp and expose the cam chain tensioner.





Back off the tensioner screws evenly and remove the tensioner:



Ziptie the cam chains to both sprockets.  This is NOT in the manual, but is an old trick to keep the cams in time with each other.
Plug the cam chain run with a clean shop towel.


Remove the cam ladder screws evenly in the pattern in the service manual.



Remove the top cam chain run, noting the bolts are much longer.



Remove the cam chain ladder very carefully.  Note the dowel positions and watch out for the o-rings on the bottom that seal the spark plug cavities. ( you can see in my case two o-rings remained on the head, and one on the ladder )



Use clean shop towels and plug every area around the area, like a surgeon prepping for an operation.
Carefully move ONE CAM toward the center of the head to expose the valve buckets.



Using a magnet-on-a-stick, extract the bucket of the first valve that needs adjustment.  Do them ONE AT A TIME.





Watch for the shim.  It may remain on top of the valve, or it may be stick inside the bucket.  Cup your hand under the bucket as soon as you can..



Clean everything constantly as you work.

Now, note the number on the shim.   The stock Triumph ones will be in mm with no decimal point.   Replacements normally will be with a decimal point.

In any case, MEASURE THE SHIM YOU JUST REMOVED WITH THE MICROMETER.

Record the shim number and what you measured.  I find it easier to work in inches, so hopefully you have a mic which can show decimal inches too.



Determine the difference you need.  Triumph shims are available in .001 increments, most others in .002.

Choose your NEW shim.  MIC IT.     ENSURE THE DIFFENCE BETWEEN THE SHIMS IS THE DIFFERENCE IN CLEARANCE YOU NEED.

I like to measure the ORIGINAL shim with the mic, and set the mic to zero, then carefully replace the original with the new shim and make sure the mic shows the proper change in clearance.   Here I was going to increase the valve's clearance by .005 inches.



DO IT AGAIN, MAYBE TWO OR THREE TIMES.  YOU WANT TO BE SURE ABSOLUTELY...


Put your new shim in the pocket on top of the valve stem.
Clean the bucket inside and out.



Coat the bucket with a 50/50 mix of moly grease and clean engine oil.

Carefully replace the bucket.

Repeat for each valve you need to adjust on that cam. 

When you are done with the cam, carefully oil the cam bearings with fresh engine oil and replace the cam in it's bearings.

Move the other cam as you did the first, and adjust whatever valves you need to.

When you are done, replace the cams in position being sure the alignment marks are correct.
Replace the cam ladder, and torque it down in the manual's criss-cross manner.



Replace the cam chain tensioner.  You can 'reset it' as noted in the manual if you like.  The engine will rattle alarmingly for 5 seconds or so when you start it.   I replaced it without resetting as nothing changed so why wouldn't it be fine as it was.   Worked for me, use your own judgment.

Cut the zip ties off the cam sprockets.

Remove the 6mm pin from the crankshaft.

Now, very very slowly and carefully, rotate the engine through several revolutions making sure it is free ( it it stops, do NOT force it.. your cam timing is wrong!!!  back up, reinsert the 6mm pin and correct!!) and that the cam marks align properly when the 6mm pin is reinserted.

Now recheck all your valve clearances, ALL of them.   Do NOT FAIL to do so..  You want to catch any mistakes now...


If all is well, you can reassemble.

Install the plugs, being sure to measure the gap, and use anti-seize.





Re-new the spark plug cavity gasket.



Be sure and ensure the valve cover gasket is seated properly.  It's a good design.  Make sure you put some silicone seal where recommended around the semi-circle-shaped parts. When you put the over back on, be very careful not to dislodge the gasket.  When you have it down, look from every angle you can to make sure it's ok.



Replace the valve cover bolt gaskets, oiling them first, and tighten the bolts in the correct pattern to the proper torque.



MAKE SURE THE 6mm PIN IS OUT OF THE ENGINE!!


Using a new gasket, replace the crankshaft cover plate. Carefully make sure the dowels and cam guide pins align correctly.

Reassemble the rest in reverse order, being careful to connect everything securely and check all fasteners as you work your way back out..

Pay close attention when you first fire it up.
1977 Suzuki TS-185
1974 Kawasaki Z-1 903
2013 Triumph Trophy SE
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Offline azgman

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Re: How To: Adjust TTSE Valves
« Reply #1 on: December 20, 2015, 03:24:58 am »
Outstanding job documenting this Jan! Thank you!   :028:
Serial BMW rider

Offline ZShyster

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Re: How To: Adjust TTSE Valves
« Reply #2 on: December 20, 2015, 04:48:07 am »
Wow! :156: Way beyond my ability and patience.  Thanks for the post, it will keep me from biting off more than I can chew.  :821:

Offline cropbiker

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Re: How To: Adjust TTSE Valves
« Reply #3 on: December 20, 2015, 10:15:15 am »
Fantastic write up... Has certainly put me off doing it for myself!

I think I will swallow the cost of letting my service guy do that one.

The important thing about limits, is knowing what yours are!
Triumph Trophy! Not for every Tomaz, Dieter or Herman!🇬🇧

Offline Stelyn

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Re: How To: Adjust TTSE Valves
« Reply #4 on: December 20, 2015, 10:47:48 am »
*Originally Posted by cropbiker [+]
Fantastic write up... Has certainly put me off doing it for myself!
I think I will swallow the cost of letting my service guy do that one.
The important thing about limits, is knowing what yours are!

  :460:  and  +1 on that,  to involved for me,  I'd  better start getting some cash put away ...... :017:
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Offline silverstripes

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Re: How To: Adjust TTSE Valves
« Reply #5 on: December 20, 2015, 11:00:41 am »
Great job recording the job  :152:

May think long and hard about doing this myself  :005:
It wasn't me !!

Offline twowheeladdict

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Re: How To: Adjust TTSE Valves
« Reply #6 on: December 20, 2015, 02:12:32 pm »
 thanks for posting.  After seeing this, I am more inclined to do this myself than trust this to someone who might care less about doing a perfect job. Or, I may just part with it at 20,000 miles.

I'm glad you all have technicians you can trust.

Offline lemuriano

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Re: How To: Adjust TTSE Valves
« Reply #7 on: December 20, 2015, 05:08:52 pm »
Extremely informative, Thanks.  :047: I had change the air filter and spark plugs, but next time I will get my hands a little dirty and have fun with the valves.
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