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Offline thumper

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LED Turn Signals...Easy!
« on: April 18, 2016, 03:36:57 pm »
Hello all,

I've recently upgraded the turn signals on both my Trophy and Explorer to LED bulbs.    I'm OCD about lighting, and don't care for incandescent signals.   I have a post over on the Explorer forum detailing the job there.

Luckily, adding LED turn signals to the Trophy is much easier than the Explorer job (which wasn't too bad.)

Here are the resistors and LED bulbs that I bought from Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/CUTEQUEEN-TRADING-Resistors-License-Cancellor/dp/B00DCULNXS?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00

http://www.amazon.com/Alla-Lighting-Yellow-Extremely-Blinker/dp/B01AEW9WNO?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00

You'll only be using two of the resistors, and you'll need two packages (4 bulbs total) of the LED bulbs.

Remove the rear lighting assembly per the instructions in the owner's manual.   The resistors have a foot on either side, which needs to be snipped off with pliers (just grab them in the pliers teeth, bend back & forth, and they'll snap off.)     The incandescent light bulbs on our bikes have the mounting lugs at 150 degrees.     These LED bulbs have the normal 180 degree mounting lugs, so one of them on each bulb will have to be snipped off (the bulbs still hold tightly in the socket with only one lug.)

Replace all four turn signal bulbs with the LED bulbs.   

Use the supplied quick connectors to attach one resistor to each side of the rear turn signal bulb wires (orientation of the resistor wires to the turn signal wires doesn't matter, as long as one resistor wire goes to + and the other resistor wire goes to the -.)     

After the resistors have been attached, and you've replaced the LED bulbs, tuck the resistors into the open ends of the bike's frame tubes at the back of the bike.    The resistors will fit snugly in here, and won't touch anything delicate--should they become heated during use.     

Turn on the bike and check all bulbs (check turn signal, and hazard light function.)    If a bulb doesn't work, remove it from the socket, and re-insert it 180 degrees opposite of how you had it.     If the signals still won't work, one side of signals doesn't work, or you get "hyper flash," you may have failed to properly splice the resistor into the bike's wiring.   

After everything is checked okay, simply re-attach the taillight assembly to the bike, ensuring all wiring is tucked away.

You will find these LED bulbs are much brighter than the OEM incandescents, and throw a very bright light to the front, rear, and side of the bike.

Enjoy!!
« Last Edit: April 18, 2016, 04:40:19 pm by thumper »
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Offline thumper

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Re: LED Turn Signals...Easy!
« Reply #1 on: April 18, 2016, 03:46:39 pm »
These are un-doctored photos, with all of my garage lights on.    These LED signals are much brighter than the OEM incandescents.

Note:   The LED bulbs used will dictate which resistors you'll need.    The resistors and LED bulbs I've shown work together in the Trophy, with no issues.     I used different LED bulbs in the Explorer (the stalk-mounted turn signal housings won't allow these same LED bulbs to be used, as these bulbs are too long to fit.)     In the Explorer, I had to use 25w 10ohm resistors, instead of the 50w 6ohm resistors used here.

If anyone has questions, or needs more photos, ask away!
« Last Edit: April 18, 2016, 04:42:30 pm by thumper »
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Offline AZBob

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Re: LED Turn Signals...Easy!
« Reply #2 on: April 18, 2016, 05:29:19 pm »
The resistance required is dictated by the incandescent bulb, not the LED -- the LED's use so little power, they are for all intents and purposes, zero load. You need something that will use up about 25watts of power to simulate the incandescent bulb being there (the stock amber bulbs use 25 watts), so a 6ohm resistor, as you have specified, will work and will use about 24watts. The 50watt rating is the max wattage the resistor can take (for example, if one were using a 24v system; since the resistor is rated at 2amps, the most power it would use on our bike is 24 watts).

If you changed the rears as well, you'll need four resistors -- I'm not sure how you got away with only using two -- you have to simulate the load of all four incandescent bulbs that you are replacing and each resistor only simulates the load of one bulb. With one resistor on each side, the flash interval may look "OK", but it's not the same frequency as stock (it's twice as fast, but only half as fast as the "bulb out" flash, so, as I said, it may look "OK" -- it's too fast for me and I wanted it to be stock, so I went with 4).

The reason you had to snip off the mounting dots for the bulb is because you have an incompatible bulb type -- there are many different configurations of bulbs. The correct ones for our bike (PY21W) can be purchased here: https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/tail-brake-turn/7507-py21w-led-bulb-18-smd-led-tower-bau15s-retrofit-car/527/ if anyone is interested. I have four of those on my bike and they are very bright and fit without modification.

I would recommend against the use of those connectors on a motorcycle -- they have a tendency to come apart -- they're usually fine on automobiles where vibration isn't really a thing. I would recommend to either use a crimped connection or Posi-Taps for longevity.
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Offline thumper

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Re: LED Turn Signals...Easy!
« Reply #3 on: April 18, 2016, 08:18:19 pm »
Well, there's a warm welcome to the site....sigh.   Nothing like having everything in your first thread ripped apart by the first response.

No, the flash rate is the same as stock, and I tried your LED's in the Explorer and didn't care for them---they were merely adequate.   Those bulbs are now sitting in a bottom drawer of my tool chest.     







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Offline thumper

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Re: LED Turn Signals...Easy!
« Reply #4 on: April 18, 2016, 11:54:51 pm »
*Originally Posted by AZBob [+]
The resistance required is dictated by the incandescent bulb, not the LED -- the LED's use so little power, they are for all intents and purposes, zero load. You need something that will use up about 25watts of power to simulate the incandescent bulb being there (the stock amber bulbs use 25 watts), so a 6ohm resistor, as you have specified, will work and will use about 24watts. The 50watt rating is the max wattage the resistor can take (for example, if one were using a 24v system; since the resistor is rated at 2amps, the most power it would use on our bike is 24 watts).

If you changed the rears as well, you'll need four resistors -- I'm not sure how you got away with only using two -- you have to simulate the load of all four incandescent bulbs that you are replacing and each resistor only simulates the load of one bulb. With one resistor on each side, the flash interval may look "OK", but it's not the same frequency as stock (it's twice as fast, but only half as fast as the "bulb out" flash, so, as I said, it may look "OK" -- it's too fast for me and I wanted it to be stock, so I went with 4).

The reason you had to snip off the mounting dots for the bulb is because you have an incompatible bulb type -- there are many different configurations of bulbs. The correct ones for our bike (PY21W) can be purchased here: https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/tail-brake-turn/7507-py21w-led-bulb-18-smd-led-tower-bau15s-retrofit-car/527/ if anyone is interested. I have four of those on my bike and they are very bright and fit without modification.

I would recommend against the use of those connectors on a motorcycle -- they have a tendency to come apart -- they're usually fine on automobiles where vibration isn't really a thing. I would recommend to either use a crimped connection or Posi-Taps for longevity.

While you were busy theorizing that the flash rate of my signals was somehow faster than normal (I didn't post a video, so I have no idea where you came up with that idea), you failed to remember that the stock turn signal bulbs are 21 watts each, not 25 watts.    Hence, the one resistor per side of the bike is perfect for the job.     

I'm no stranger to motorcycling, and I've used crimp connectors for many, many years.    None have ever "come apart."   

I'm glad your project worked for you.   No need to completely trash my project on this forum.   Thanks for your input, nonetheless.     :233:

Geez, maybe I'll just go back to the Explorer forum.    :110:
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Re: LED Turn Signals...Easy!
« Reply #5 on: April 19, 2016, 08:15:46 am »
Gents, lets keep this friendly ...
one of the many aspects that set this Forum apart from others !

I don't perceive that everything in the original post has been completely ripped apart,
and it contains some very useful information for such a modification,
as does the reply pointing out the correct bulb type used on the Trophy,
for which there may be many different manufacturers.

I think the description of how many Resistors are to be used may have been misunderstood,
where "You'll only be using two of the resistors..." means "per bulb", and not "in total".

All contributions ( that comply with Forum Rules ) are welcome.

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Offline OHRider

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Re: LED Turn Signals...Easy!
« Reply #6 on: April 19, 2016, 12:52:57 pm »
Has anybody tried LEDs without a resistor? What kind of flasher does the TTSE have? Electronic or the old current type. Or does the CANBUS need the resistor?  I converted my 73 BMW to an electronic flasher and LEDs and did not need the resistors.
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Offline Coconut

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Re: LED Turn Signals...Easy!
« Reply #7 on: April 19, 2016, 01:02:50 pm »
There isn't a separate Flasher Unit, it's integrated into the Instrument Panel,
but as for what type, and specification etc -  :027:


 



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