Electrical mods - Fuzeblock, Denali horn, dashcams, USB

[fred_jb]

I decided to do a few electrical mods while I had the bike in bits to fit the R & G Adventure Bars, and took a few pictures in case they are of interest to anyone else. Details and pictures below.

Fred

Denali Sound Bomb horn:

I found a convenient location for this just above the stock horn where I could use an existing bolt to hold the mounting bracket. I always leave the stock horn in place if at all possible when adding an after market horn, as that gives me protection against the new horn failing, and a louder two tone noise when they work together.  I piggybacked connections from the stock horn to drive a relay, and used the Fuzeblock I also installed to provide a 12V power source for the new horn via the relay.




USB power points:

I got fed up with a USB adapter vibrating out of the 12V socket in the left hand storage compartment, so decided to replace it with a dedicated USB power unit.  The one I got has 2 x 2.1A USB ports, and also has a nice voltmeter display between the USB ports.   I also took the opportunity to take an ignition switched 12V supply to this unit from my Fuzeblock, because the power supply to the original 12V socket is only live when the engine is running, which is not always convenient.  The original 12V socket was a bit difficult to remove, but once out the replacement fitted snugly into the same hole.




Fuzeblock:

I wanted one of these to provide a convenient central location for powering accessories, and after looking at various locations, decided to put it under the right hand side panel.  I ran heavy duty earth and 12 V cables inside a protective spiral cover  from the battery to this location which was quite easy while the fairing was off.  This also needs a switched 12V supply just to activate it when the ignition is on.  I took this from the alarm connector which sits on a bracket in front of the rear brake reservoir by extracting one of the pins and soldering the extra wire to it before re-inserting it.  You can also see the horn relay in this picture - it is mounted to the right of the blue relays.  The horn relay happened to have a built-in 20A fuse, but is also fused with a more appropriate 10A fuse in the Fuzeblock.




Dashcams:

On a previous bike I used an Innovv K1 dual camera dashcam, but was looking for a cheaper and easier to fit solution, but still wanted to have both front and rear camera.   I saw some Innovv C3 cameras being sold very cheaply direct from China so bought a couple of these.  I am aware that some people have had problems with these, so I am not necessarily expecting them to last forever, but they will do for now.  Being separate smaller units than the K1 made it easier to find space for them and easier to wire them up.  I have put the recording unit for the front camera in the left hand lockable compartment, and the one for the rear camera under the rear seat.

Front:





Rear:

[Tiny Tim]

Nice ideas and nice work. Love the idea of the fuzeblock.

Have you considered shortening the loom of wiring in the glove box?

[fred_jb]

Originally Posted by Tiny Tim

Nice ideas and nice work. Love the idea of the fuzeblock.

Have you considered shortening the loom of wiring in the glove box?

Thanks Tim, and yes I am in the process of sourcing some standard USB connectors with snap on covers so that I can make up a short power lead by modding the existing one.  Because the camera end is a relatively rare 8 pin mini connector I haven't been able to source a suitable complete short lead.  I thought I would also get some female ones to put on the cut end of the excess lead so that if I ever want to move the cameras, for example into the car, I would have a nice long extension lead.

Fred

[Nudger]

Fred,

Those are great upgrades and a very neat job.  Thank you for taking the time to post the information and photos.  Always interesting to see what people are up to regarding customizing their Trophy's.   

Brian.

[fred_jb]

Thanks Brian. 

Just an update, I have now decided to relocate the front camera recorder unit, as it seemed to be getting quite hot in the closed front compartment, and I've read that these units are prone to failure through overheating. I've found that the camera cable is just long enough to be able to locate it far enough back to be accessed from under the rear seat. I wanted both units to be reasonably accessible so that I can easily extract the memory cards if I want to copy any footage off onto my laptop.  I also decided to remove both end covers off the units so that so air can flow over the circuit board inside - as a bonus I've found this actually makes it easier to get the memory cards in and out!

Next job - fit the basic NCS alarm which arrived yesterday.

Fred

[Tiny Tim]

Fred,

I've decided to copy your lead and fit a FuzeBlock under the right hand cover, as you did. I found the Alarm Plug. Although I have a standard Trophy, my plug is where indicated in the SE position in the diagram


Probably yet another typo!

However, what I need to know from you is which terminal in the plug is the12v +ve Ignition? It's full GOO in there and I don't want to get my hands too dirty or break a nail! 

[fred_jb]

Hi Tim,

My bike is an SE, but contrary to your manual it has the alarm connector bolted onto the rear brake reservoir.   The other possible position for this connector near to the relays on my bike has some sort of audio module labelled NTouch mounted there.

I took a connection from pin 2 of the connector for an ignition switched +12V supply - the brown wire in the picture below.  The pin was difficult to remove, and even more difficult to re-insert with two wires attached, so it would probably be easier to tap into the wire in some way instead.

I found the connector pin numbering to correspond to the information in the following link, and the information on pin functions also seemed correct for the limited number of pins I used to connect my basic alarm - I didn't check the others.  For the alarm I used pin 6 for the permanent 12V supply, pins 7 and 8 for the indicator connections, and pin 9 for 0v/earth.     http://www.triumphrat.net/speed-triple-forum/188416-alarm-electrical-wiring-question.html

The connector I used was bought here:  http://www.simtekuk.co.uk/product.php/070_multilock_12_way_female_connector/?k=:::1593898

I didn't want to use the immobiliser function of the alarm, so I replicated the ignition and starter loopback connections as they were on the original plug, then added the four connections for my alarm. I will carry the original plug on the bike so should the alarm fail I can simply unplug it and put the original loopback connector in place.

I bought the most basic NCS alarm on ebay for £17.99 which is a bit smaller and easier to find space for than the NCS V2 I have used in the past.  The only thing it seems to be missing is the LED armed indicator which I wasn't too bothered about, otherwise it seems to work just the same.

Some pictures below.

Fred





In the picture below, the red wire is the permanent 12V, the indicator wires are yellow but I put some heatshrink on one of them after accidentally nicking the insulation, and the black wire on the left in the picture is the earth connection.

[fred_jb]

Just a thought about positioning the Fuzeblock.

One of my criticisms of the product is that it is too tall for what it does and could easily be made slimmer.  It also has exposed soldering on the back, so it is a good idea to bolt the supplied plastic panel onto the back (I also covered the exposed soldering with insulating tape) but the panel makes the unit even taller.  I used self adhesive plastic locking stuff to mount it (can't remember the name but a super velcro type thing) which makes it even taller.

The bottom line from all this that positioning becomes quite critical.  It needs to be as low down and far back as possible otherwise the inward slope of the side panel will foul it.

Fred