Shifter linkage lubrication

[1150newguy]

There has been some discussion here about shifter mounting bolts breaking and ways to avoid the issue and also questions about checking and lubricating the linkage. I have disassembled and lubed mine twice now, once at 20,000 miles and yesterday at 43,000 miles. Did the linkage and mounting bolt need cleaned and lubed each time? Yes, it did. Another member, 1675, has performed this task also and he suggested that one of us write up a bit of a “how to” on the subject. I said I would give it a shot so here it is.
Tools you will need; 14mm wrench, 14mm socket, #40 torx bit, Allen or Hex bits in 4, 5, and 8 mm sizes, and a sturdy ratchet. A three inch extension may come in handy also.
Use the 5mm hex bit to remove the two screws holding the plastic guard in place (yellow circles) with this guard off you can see the 14mm bolt that will need removed. This bolt has a nut on the backside and you will need the 14mm wrench to hold that nut. These are tight and will require some good old fashioned “oomph” to break them loose. This bolt holds the rear sub frame and there has been some speculation as to whether there will need to be a support of some kind needed here. Mine didn’t move at all so no support was needed. Next use the #40 torx bit to remove the three mounting screws in the plate (red circles) these also will be tight. I have heard some have replaced these with new ones on reassembly. I just cleaned mine well and reused them with BLUE loctite. This is the second time mine have been removed and I will replace them the next time. Once these are out the plate is ready to remove. The plastic piece on the front of the plate uses the tab and grommet system to hold it in place so be careful and don’t break the plastic tabs. The foot peg will stay on the plate. Now you will have a clear view of the shifter and the linkage. We will be removing all of it.

Remove the shifter mounting bolt #12 carefully, it may be tight, mine wasn’t too bad. Now, up above that you will see where the splined shaft comes out of the transmission. Remove bolt #13 and slip this lever off of the shaft. #13 has to be completely removed not just loosened. Don’t worry about getting this lever back in the proper location, the shaft is marked or you can take a marker of some type and mark it yourself. DO NOT loosen the small nuts on the threaded portion of the linkage unless you are planning to adjust the shifter height. This entire assembly can now be dropped out and taken to the workbench or in my case to the kitchen where I put down a shop rag and had a sandwich and cold brew while I worked. Oh yeah, my wife was at work. There are only four items that you need to remove to do this task, numbers 12 and 13 as mentioned above and #6 the two small clips that hold the Heim joints together. You will see the clips #6 on the shaft #7. You just rotate them off of the shaft and then pull them free of the joint, now the joints can be separated. It will take a bit of force, but they will pop apart. This is usually where the clips get away and go under the refrigerator or down the heating vent so take care and place them out of harm’s way. #5’s are rubber seals and can be reused if not torn, I had one torn and had to locate a piece of soft rubber and make a new one, no big deal. Clean all of these parts thoroughly and inspect the mounting bolt closely. I used good old rubbing alcohol to clean my parts since they weren’t heavily greased or dirty, plus it evaporates and leaves no residue. Some folks are lubing the mounting bolt #12 and ignoring the Heim joints. This is a mistake in my opinion because the joints will be dry and a bit stiff. Stiffness here will add to the pressure placed on the mounting bolt when shifting. Put a bit of your preferred grease into the “cup” of the Heim joint. I used some of the Honda Moly Paste I had in my garage for Goldwing rear wheel splines, good stuff. When you force the ball into the cup most of the grease will be squeezed out, but enough remains for good lubrication. Don’t forget to put #5 back in place. Install the clip #6 after you get it out from under the refrigerator. Do the same for the other Heim joint. I cleaned and inspected the mounting bolt and also the hole on the shifter pedal quite thoroughly. Both looked good and were lubed well with the Honda Moly as well. I reassembled everything using a dab of BLUE Loctite on the bolts as I went along. I don’t have the torque numbers in front of me at this moment and am too lazy to search for them again, but they aren’t too hard to find for these fasteners so have at it.
I have had no shifting or bolt breaking issues in my 43,000 miles. I decided to check and lube this linkage because of issues others were having. Personally I believe this should be part of the 20,000 mile maintenance routine. Mine was dry and it did work better after this little lube. The whole job took less than an hour.

[silverstripes]

Good write up thanks  I will do mine soon 

[AZBob]

Honestly, these parts aren't subject to very much pressure at all, and it's not at all constant. A spritz of WD40 or other penetrating oil without taking everything apart would be way more than enough lubrication IMO.

[1150newguy]

That's what I thought too, but a spritz of WD40 won't get past the rubber seal on the Heim joints. Been there, done that. I did notice smoother operation after the joints were lubed. You spritz yours, I'll lube mine at each valve adjustment. 

[john348]

Mine broke and I modified it to use a bolt down the middle and lubed it.  It then went loose so I took it to bits again and sure enough it was dry again so lubed it again and this time used some loctite under the bolt head.  I am sure if I put a lot of thought to it should be possible to make an outrigger to make the bolt a lot stronger.  I have read the modification posted by others which looks a good start. But I would think we could use the footrest hanger?

[OhioWinger]

NavyDad,

Thanks for the write up!I will be adding this to my Winter maintenance check list.

[earthman]

Originally Posted by john348

I am sure if I put a lot of thought to it should be possible to make an outrigger to make the bolt a lot stronger.  I have read the modification posted by others which looks a good start. But I would think we could use the footrest hanger?

Would this outrigger end up acting like a crash bar, is that what you are thinking??

I would have liked to have come up with some lower crash/engine bars for this bike but it looks neigh on impossible to me, the gear lever etc is just too low to the ground. I'd like to see what you come up with though.

[plgoddard]

Thorough write-up, thanks NavyDad.