The 15 A fuse blows out and bike dies.. Please help!!!

[atuti]

Hi all.

Yesterday I was riding the bike and after 60 miles sudenly the engine stopped, the secreen retracted to its lower position the clocks were to black and the needles remained in the position they were.

I was not using heated grips nor heated seats. Only the radio was on.

I was lucky because I was passing a truck but at least finally I had the opportunity to move relativeliy safely to the shoulder.

I checked everything and dicovered that the 15 A fuse on the rear fuse box (position number 5) was blown out. The one that deals with the ignition system and the instruments.

I changed it with the spare one and when turning the key it tried to do the initial check but the fuse blow again.

I tried for a third time and the same result.

Now the bike is in the dealer and they are having problems to discover where is the problem (the shortcut??) that is forcing the fuse to blow and as the bike can not be switched on they can not use the computer to run the service tool.

Help!!! Please,,,, Help!!!

[kniterider]

Try simple things first ( cheaper too),, check the harness leading to the ignition lock for binding near the frame and yoke,, Then trace the harness down from the handle bar switches to see if any insulation has been rubbed off by the movement of turning the bars back and forth,, Just a starter thought anyway

[earthman]

Originally Posted by kniterider

Try simple things first ( cheaper too),, check the harness leading to the ignition lock for binding near the frame and yoke,, Then trace the harness down from the handle bar switches to see if any insulation has been rubbed off by the movement of turning the bars back and forth,, Just a starter thought anyway

Good ideas there. Apart from tracing every wire/item that's connected to that 15 A fuse, I can't suggest anything else.

[Coconut]

Hi atuti,

What Year is your Trophy ?

The Blue & White wire from Fuse 5 ( 15A ) of the Rear Fuse box ( Fuse Box No.1 )
goes directly to the Ignition Switch.

From previous reports from other Forum Members it is quite likely that due to the wiring harness
being routed incorrectly around the headstock, the wiring becomes overly tight when the handlebars
are turned fully to the right, putting strain on the connectors at the Ignition switch,
and also at the right hand handlebar switch cube.

Wires pulled out could easily be touching "Ground" and cause the fuse to blow,
and I would strongly suspect this to be the cause of your particular problem.

See the Links below - there's plenty of "evidence" of Triumph knowing of this being an issue,
of them making a modification, and of repairing Members Trophys free of charge - even after
expiration of initial warranty period, and including replacing complete lock sets so the Owner
doesn't end up with an additional and different key ( for the new Ignition Switch lock ).

So I would ask your Dealer to investigate and confirm this is the problem,
and if it is - you can then insist that it is put right at no expense to you,
whether your Warranty has expired or not !

Ignition Switch Wiring Failures
and ...
No Power When Ignition and Kill Switch Are On

Let us know how you get on 

Cheers 

[atuti]

Thank you all for your quick answers and help.

For COCONUT my TT is a 2012 model. And, as a matter of fact I had to change the whole ignition switch 5 months ago. The problem showed up when the headlights switch of every time that I moved the handle bar to the right. One wire was cut because they are very tight when moving to the right.

They did not assume as a "factory problem" and I had to pay 320 €.

For this reason, being the swicth and its wires so new, is why I think that the problem is not There.

And now the problem is different, it blows the fuse. Not only the bike stops... It "dies".

And I am quite worried so far. In the workshop they have been working yesterday afternoon and today and they do not have a single clue of the problem. When it stopped I was not moving the handle bar, driving at 60 mph, straight on a highway, no heated grips on, no heated seats on, just the radio and the cruise control were on.... And suddenly the fuse blow out and everything went black.

We have inserted new fuses and after 1 second blows again.

I hope that this has to be a very "stupid thing" because it is no related to the ECU.. It is clearly a shortcut... But where is it?

Thanks again for you answers

[Coconut]

I would seriously consider writing / emailing Triumph UK to enquire WHY you were charged
for that work, when other Members of the Forum with the identical problem, out of warranty,
have had the work done at no cost to them.

Of course there's no proof ( yet ) that this latest problem has anything at all to do with
the previous one, and the replacement of the Ignition switch, but it IS likely, and if confirmed,
then you should also argue that you shouldn't be charged for this latest work - Good Luck with that !

A decent auto-electrician with a wiring diagram and Test Meter should be able to locate the
short circuit relatively easily, but if the Dealer are just using a general "mechanic" following
scripted Diagnostic Tests, without being able to hook up and run the Diagnostics equipment,
then I can see how they might struggle.

If they've checked and confirmed there is no short circuit on the Blue / White wire
from the Fuse output to the Ignition switch Input, then it's matter of moving on and
methodically checking each of the outputs from the Ignition switch that the
Blue / White wire connects to when switched on, to locate the fault.

Your description of the Fuse blowing "slowly" after 1 second,
tends to suggest an electronic component fault,
rather than a wire being in direct contact to Ground,
which would cause an instantaneous blow.

With that in mind, I'd conduct tests of the Cruise Control switch -
as that was "on" when the fuse blew, taking into account, as mentioned above,
the tight wiring problem to the right hand switch cube where the Cruise control switches are,
and also with the Audio module disconnected ( previously known to fail for other Members ),
as that was also switched ON when the fuse first blew.

Hopefully it's something relatively simple, and not the main ECU -
which would be quite expensive to replace ! 

Hope you get it sorted ! 

[AZBob]

Originally Posted by atuti

Now the bike is in the dealer and they are having problems to discover where is the problem (the shortcut??) that is forcing the fuse to blow and as the bike can not be switched on they can not use the computer to run the service tool.

Find a new dealer. The computer, regardless of whether they can get it connected or not, isn't going to tell them where a ground fault might be in the wiring harness given it's a fused wiring harness, not an electronically-controlled one. They're going to have to go old-school with a multi-meter and trace all the wires on that circuit. Fun stuff.

[RocketSteve]

I've had cut-out problems with the Cruise control but all this does not bode well for the Triumph brand!

I have friends with the Thunderbird that have major engine rebuild problems relating to part failures engineered in Spain that have resulted in major problems with Piston & Sleeve replacement arguments.

This is now starting to worry me BIG time as I have unresolved Loom & Ignition switch issues which are being treated with wholesale customer contempt 

Other than Matt Albright [BBC Watchdog] I don't feel the problems will be taken seriously and even then, an element of contempt still remains. I don't have a Vauxhall but their car fires are a damn good example of how loyal customers are viewed in the UK etc.