Center stand removal, susp link lubrication

[Gonzodog]

I like to do periodic lubrication of the rear suspension linkage on my bikes, having had a few issues with bikes that had been neglected.

My '13 with 20,000 miles is ready to have the linkage freshed up. I intend to disassemble the linkage and remove the swing arm and re-grease all the bearings.

It looks like the linkage wont come completely apart unless the center stand is removed and the pivot bolt reversed.

Can anyone offer any tips on how to raise the rear end of the bike securely so the center stand can be removed to access the front pivot bolt of the rear linkage?

I don't have ready access to a hoist.

Maybe one of you creative types has thought of a method???

Thanks for any advice.

[N3zat]

 I didn't think there was anything there to grease ? I would be carefull if not , since once you start greasing dry joints it will attract dirt and could eventually start squeaks .

[OhioWinger]

It is listed as a 20k mile service item (rear suspension linkage, check/lubricate), the service manual calls them drop link and drag link.


Would an ATV jack be an option?
I need to get this done also, let us know what you find out.

[1675]

I have done mine a couple of times and its not too bad a job. You are right about the bolt, which I suspect would have come out before the centre stand upgrade was done. If the factory had given a thought to dealers/owners doing maintainence on the linkage, they would have reversed the bolt while they were at it. The greasing is part of the 20k service and as it is a needle roller/hard pin combination, it is designed to have grease in it. I removed the centre stand and upgraded bracket, then reversed the bolt so it can be removed from the right side of the bike in future. If I recall, I put the bike on the sidestand and removed the exhaust, centre stand and its bracket. I then undid the bolt and tapped it out with a 10mm dia drift, about 150mm long. Then put the bolt back in from the right side and use it to tap the drift out. Finally, put the centre stand back on, after greasing the pivot bolts. As the bike is"front heavy", put the bike on the centre stand, then you can remove the rear wheel then the suspension "alloy yoke" to service the bearings. It took me a couple of hours and I did it alone. Mine had a minimum amount of grease in each bearing and the front one, above the exhaust was boiled dry as it gets very hot. Try feeling it after the bike has stood for 10 minutes after a run. I would bet the bearing and its sleeve will need to be changed. Interestingly my first 20k service was done by the dealer and it was evident they had only dismantled and lubricated the bearings which were easy to get to. I also found some rusting around the hardened pins where they are exposed to the elements between the adjacent moving parts and seals. I put this down to using jizer to get the crud from these ares and it gets between and washes the grease out. All this for the sake of a couple of grease nipples which cost pennies!

[earthman]

Originally Posted by 1675

I have done mine a couple of times and its not too bad a job. You are right about the bolt, which I suspect would have come out before the centre stand upgrade was done. If the factory had given a thought to dealers/owners doing maintainence on the linkage, they would have reversed the bolt while they were at it. The greasing is part of the 20k service and as it is a needle roller/hard pin combination, it is designed to have grease in it. I removed the centre stand and upgraded bracket, then reversed the bolt so it can be removed from the right side of the bike in future. If I recall, I put the bike on the sidestand and removed the exhaust, centre stand and its bracket. I then undid the bolt and tapped it out with a 10mm dia drift, about 150mm long. Then put the bolt back in from the right side and use it to tap the drift out. Finally, put the centre stand back on, after greasing the pivot bolts. As the bike is"front heavy", put the bike on the centre stand, then you can remove the rear wheel then the suspension "alloy yoke" to service the bearings. It took me a couple of hours and I did it alone. Mine had a minimum amount of grease in each bearing and the front one, above the exhaust was boiled dry as it gets very hot. Try feeling it after the bike has stood for 10 minutes after a run. I would bet the bearing and its sleeve will need to be changed. Interestingly my first 20k service was done by the dealer and it was evident they had only dismantled and lubricated the bearings which were easy to get to. I also found some rusting around the hardened pins where they are exposed to the elements between the adjacent moving parts and seals. I put this down to using jizer to get the crud from these ares and it gets between and washes the grease out. All this for the sake of a couple of grease nipples which cost pennies!

Some good tips there, thanks,.....a job that I'll be doing in the future no doubt.

[silverstripes]

1675

Is it possible to drill tap and fit grease nipples while this is apart. Should be an easy job to re grease following this mod.

Just about to do mine so your guide is great, just thinking about nipples a I have some to do the gear brake pedal mod. 

[Gonzodog]

Thanks 1675.

I didn't consider using the side stand.  Kind of a d'oh moment!

The linkage is tight/no slop so I am hopeful the bearings are still ok.  I would not be surprised if there is minimal grease.  It seems that is how the factories like to put these linkages together.

As for grease fittings, I considered this but have reservations.  Years ago I had a Yamaha WR200 dirt bike that came from the factory with grease fittings on the linkage.  That was a convenience but it was easy to push the seals out of position if too much grease was injected.

With the bike on the center stand it will not be a lengthy process to remove and service the linkage.

Lastly, using a high pressure washer to wash the bike is convenient but you never want to direct the spray on the wheel bearings, linkage, and the switch gear & electronics.

Thanks again.

[trophied]

You can gain some slack for the lower pivot bolt with a couple of boards used as a lever to move the rear wheel slightly while it's on the center stand.  I did that when installing Lust links and you can take the bolt out by hand once you relieve the weight of the rear wheel on the suspension.  I also reversed the bolt the first time it was removed for easier access.  That seems kind of like a no brainer to me.