Author [NL] [FR] [ES] [DE] [SE] [IT] I did it: lowered links on the TT  (Read 22180 times)

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  • Offline gwcrim   us

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      #40

    Offline gwcrim

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    Re: I did it: lowered links on the TT
    Reply #40 on: Apr 05, 2015, 11.43 pm
    Apr 05, 2015, 11.43 pm
    I'm sure if my name was Valentino Rossi, I could tell the difference but I'm not that good.  I just got back from another trip down my favorite twisty section and the bike feels amazing.   It falls into corners quickly and leans as far as I care to go.  Not many people would be able to notice the change in handling.

    The big difference is how much more I can control it when I'm stopped and/or loading a passenger.  It's MUCH better now.   Some may say I chose the wrong bike.  I fart in their general direction.
    ~Crim~

  • Offline swede 2   us

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    Offline swede 2

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    Re: I did it: lowered links on the TT
    Reply #41 on: Apr 06, 2015, 05.59 pm
    Apr 06, 2015, 05.59 pm
    i am using the comfort seat.that's why i  went with 10 mm as a staring point,so as far as reaching ground i am back to stock or slightly lower and i did not lower the front

  • Offline ZShyster   us

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    Re: I did it: lowered links on the TT
    Reply #42 on: Apr 22, 2015, 11.08 pm
    Apr 22, 2015, 11.08 pm
    Lowered my TTSE today.  I used the Lust links.  Putting on the links was quite easy using the two pieces of wood recommended by Trumpet member.  Lowering the front was quite a different story.  I tried Frosty's suggestion and loosened one side then the other but that did not work.  I marked the fork tops, found a consistent place to measure from using a reloading (bullets) micrometer and loosened both sides.  After a lot of bouncing and measuring I got them up the 14 mm or as we say in the states .55 inches.  Frosty said that this was what Lust had in their instructions, mine did not, so I took his word.

    A few comments on the links.  I took the muffler off, very easy.  Had the bike on the center stand loosened and removed the nuts.  Made the fulcrum and lever recommended  and had my wife put a foot on it and it took enough pressure off to pull the links off and remove the bolts.  I installed the links on the top bolt an started the nut.  I again had my wife step on the lever and was able to easily align the link with the hole.  I put a drop of loctite blue on the threads because I was to cheap to buy new lock nuts.  Torqued them to 80nm.

    The front was a PITA.  Getting to the upper yoke clamp screw was easy.  Getting to the lower ones required removing a metal shield between the forks, a plastic shield in front of it, and the two inner side covers.  This gave you access to all four screws which could be loosened with an allen wrench.  Unfortunately it does not provide enough room to get in there with a torque wrench.  25nm is the recommended torque which I guessed at using a long allan wrench.  I guess I could have taken the entire front fairing off and a few other items, but my interest was limited.

    I test drove the bike after putting the links in before lowering the front.  My impression was the bike would dive into a slow turn and you would have to keep pressure on the inside grip to prevent over steer.  Once I lowered the front, this was somewhat mitigated, however it was still noticeable.  Please take this with a grain of salt as I have only ridden the bike 5 hours this year as the weather has finally broken.  I took it up to 70 mph and it seemed stable but did not have that "think it and the bike will turn" lightness.

    I have a 29 in inseam and was on my toes before.  A recent knee replacement demands that I use the highest seat setting for comfort and a slightly lower bike to be safe in stop and go traffic in the Chicago area.

    I want to thank all of those on the forum who have posted suggestions and pictures, I am sorry I am to lazy and technically challenged to take and post video or pictures.  i will report back after a month or two of riding on my impressions. I understand that triumph did a great job on the suspension of this bike, I just needed to compromise it as some others :821: have.  i make no apologies but at 61, I understand compromise is a fact of life.

    Ride safe my forum friends.  And if I run into any of you, don't be surprised if I offer to buy you a beer.  (12 oz here in the States) :821:

    ZShyster

    Last Edit: Apr 23, 2015, 07.33 pm by ZShyster

  • Offline KIRK!   us

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    Offline KIRK!

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    Re: I did it: lowered links on the TT
    Reply #43 on: Aug 06, 2022, 08.28 pm
    Aug 06, 2022, 08.28 pm
    Lowered mine with Lust links and swapped slip-ons today. All I wanted to add to this thread was an even easier way to align the bolts for removal and replacement than the wood method. I know not everyone has a paddock stand, but mine sure made this job easy for one person. I had the bike on the center stand, then slipped the paddock stand in. I added a section of PVC pipe over the stand's handle for more leverage and, while laying on the ground, used my foot to push down on the handle. It took very little effort, really just the weight of my leg, to take the tension off of the bolts and to realign them for installation. The entire job took about 45 minutes, including the exhaust.



    Last Edit: Aug 06, 2022, 09.18 pm by KIRK!

  • Offline KIRK!   us

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    Offline KIRK!

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    Re: I did it: lowered links on the TT
    Reply #44 on: Aug 06, 2022, 09.18 pm
    Aug 06, 2022, 09.18 pm
    Yessir! Thanks again.



    *Originally Posted by cadillacbsc [+]
    Hey those links look familiar!!  :745: :745:

  • Offline trophied   us

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    Re: I did it: lowered links on the TT
    Reply #45 on: Aug 07, 2022, 11.40 pm
    Aug 07, 2022, 11.40 pm
    I used Lust links and lowered the front (raised the tubes in the clamps) by 8, 10, and 12 mm.  I had test ridden with the front at the standard height and did find the handling was a little heavier, so I started tinkering, and 12 mm returned it to as close to stock as I could remember and I can tell you that at over the ton with "soft hands" it is very stable, and still handles low speed switchbacks as well as could be expected for its weight.  I'm enough vertically challenged it only made sense to me.
    One of the Founding Members of the Twisted Trophies

  • Offline STJIM   us

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    Offline STJIM

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    Re: I did it: lowered links on the TT
    Reply #46 on: Aug 14, 2022, 10.11 pm
    Aug 14, 2022, 10.11 pm
    In the future I may try a set of 50 series tires on the rear and 60 series on the front to lower the bike a bit more.  The only thing I'm concerned with is if that will cause a problem with the ABS brakes.
    IBA #35372  Mile Eater Gold 8-2022
    BBG  5-2014  SS3K 9-2020
    Great Lakes 100 :  2011/2019/2022
    2015 TTSE , 2008 Concours C-14
    1998 ST1100

  • Offline STJIM   us

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    Offline STJIM

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    Re: I did it: lowered links on the TT
    Reply #47 on: Sep 08, 2022, 02.08 am
    Sep 08, 2022, 02.08 am
    I lowered my TTSE today by using Lust Racing  1Ē  lowering links.   I also slipped the front forks up Ĺ inch.

    I needed to lower the bike so I could sit flat footed when stopped instead of mostly on my toes.

    I think the reason I needed to do this is because of :  1.) my 30 inch inseam  2.)  the RDL seat that I have installed.  3.)  the relative high seat height  of the TTSE Ė why else would it come with a low-rider seat ?

    I looked up the seat height spec compared to other bikes and itís comparable to other bikes but with the RDL seat installed the seat height is a problem.   I have an RDL seat installed on both my ST1100 and Concours C-14 and I donít have a problem sitting flat footed on these other bikes.

    When I did the Great Lakes Challenge with other Riders,  I noticed the other Riders could sit flat footed when stopped and their knees were bent, too.   The other bikes were a K1600GA,  K1600GT, R1250RT and a Triumph Tiger 800.

    I thought maybe I had the seat height set incorrectly and I double checked that.  It was set to the low position.  I did notice there are 2 rubber bumpers about 5/16 inch thick that snap into the bottom of the seat and the rear of the seat rests on these when the seat is installed.  I removed them and then installed the seat and it seemed like that helped a bit, BTW.

    So now with the lowering links installed Iím more comfortable and stable when stopped.   I really couldnít tell much difference in how the bike handles or turns-in.  No problem dragging the foot pegs. Since the center  of gravity is lower I would think the handling should be better ( ?? ).

    There is no way I can get the bike on the center stand without running the rear wheel over a 2x10.  Itís easy to do when the rear tire is over the 2x10.  On a multiple day LD ride Iíll bring a length of 2x10 in the top box.

    The side stand still seems to works fine now that the bike is lowered.  Lust says to grind off some material from the ďstopĒ surface which sounds like a good fast fix if more lean when on the side stand is desired.
    Last Edit: Sep 08, 2022, 02.10 am by STJIM
    IBA #35372  Mile Eater Gold 8-2022
    BBG  5-2014  SS3K 9-2020
    Great Lakes 100 :  2011/2019/2022
    2015 TTSE , 2008 Concours C-14
    1998 ST1100

     



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