Starting problems

[TheErics]

Hi, having some probs with my 1995 trophy, it's not starting.  Initially found a problem with the starter solenoid - replaced successfully, and it now turns over but won't fire.  Dumb question, which way does the fuel tap need to point? It has an arrow at 3 o'clock and it will turn from 12, thru 3 to 6 o'clock.  Any help appreciated, then need some advice on how much choke to give it!
Thanks...

[Coconut]

Hi,
This forum is pretty much dedicated to the new Triumph Trophy model, but I used to own a Trophy 3.

If I remember correctly the fuel tap was OFF at the 3 o'clock position, ON at 6 o'clock, and on RESERVE at 12 o'clock,
but you would need to confirm this as I'm not sure.

Haynes do a manual for these earlier Trophy models ( unlike the current model ),
which would be worth getting, or in the meantime see if your local Bike store has one in stock,
which you could go and have a quick browse through to see if I've got it right about the fuel tap !
( It WAS the best part of 10 years ago ).

Assuming you do have fuel reaching the engine ....

If the engine has been cranked over a fair bit ( I presume it has if you've been trying to start it with no joy )
then there's a good chance that the engine is flooded - take the spark plugs out,
and spin the engine over a few times with no throttle and no choke.

Clean, or better still replace, the spark plugs with new ones, rest them on top of the engine with the H.T. leads connected,
and turn the engine over so you can physically see they are sparking, proving the ignition system is working.

Put the plugs back in and try to start the engine - I would give it very little choke if any.

Good luck 

[CoJaW]

The fuel tap is a known weak spot on the early Trophy! The plastic collar over the metal  spindle is prone to cracking. The result is that the plastic knob turns but doesn't turn the actual fuel tap. You would be amazed at the time I took to find that the tap on my old Trophy was off! The plastic bit could be turned to point anywhere you like but the tap was always off!
If yours is a Trophy 4, another weak spot is the ignition coils. There are two on the Trophy 4, each of which fires two cylinders. If one goes wrong you are down to 2 working cylinders. Starting is very difficult under these conditions. They tend to 'switch off' when warm and come back on when cooled, but they can just stop permanently! They are dificult to check 'cos you need to watch for sparks at two plugs simultaneously.
If you find you have no spark at all, from any plugs, it's likely to be the crackshaft posion sensor. These can fail and stop all ignition. They are realtivly cheap and easy to replace, but you need to be brave.
I've also worked on a 'new style'  (1995) Trophy on which the electrical junction box inside the nose fairing was well corroded and stopped the ignition circuit but appeared to let everything else work. The junction box seems to be located where it can collect the maximum crud thrown in to the dummy air intake in the nose faring. There is supposed to a rubber boot to protect the box but it hadn't done a very good job on the one I worked on!

There is an excellent forum for theses bikes which will cover these and other items in more detail at;
http://autos.dir.groups.yahoo.com/group/TriumphTrophy/?v=1&t=directory&ch=web&pub=groups&sec=dir&slk=4

I hope you get yours sorted! There is still lot of mileage in the old Trophy!

 

[RedMerle]

This thread is proving really useful for the work I know I'm going to have to carry out to get my old 1200 Daytona back to life (15 years old / 7,500 miles / 1 owner / dry stored, but left standing too long!).

Thread now saved 

John.

[w8d4it]

You may also find this forum helpful

http://www.triumphrat.net/trophy/