Clutch adjustment or levers?

[Rick505]

Folks,

I prefer to have my clutch start engaging the friction zone with the lever much closer to the handlebar than I can achieve on my 2015 TTSE.  I did adjust the factory levers to bring it closer but it still seems like the lever is almost fully released before I get much clutch action.  I really notice it when I return to my Suzuki DL-650 and compare the difference.  I know the DL-650 has a cable vs. hydraulic but wonder if anyone has any suggestions??  I understand there really isn't any clutch adjustments to be made and would consider replacing the levers (or lever as my brake lever is fine) but have no idea where to start.  I'd also rather simply keep buying replacements until I find one as they don't seem to be inexpensive...yes I'm cheap.

Thanks in advance,

Rick

[GaryWWhite]

  Hi There Rick,
I thought the dealer could adjust the hydraulic pressure so the clutch lever would engage sooner?  Should be a simple affair?!
Regards,
Gary

[bobv07662]

No the dealer can't "adjust the hydraulic pressure".

[trophied]

There are some after market levers for the Trophy with more adjustment range than the factory levers.  There is a post on here somewhere about them and I even looked at them, but I can't remember the website.  I'll try to find it and post an update.

[trophied]

Try these guys - 6 position adjustables

madhornets.com
different colors and styles

[GaryWWhite]

Here's a possible fix I found Googling the subject:

"Check your clutch fluid. Top it off, then pull the lever about half way back. Tie it in that position overnight & check it in the morning. Any air you have in the system should make it's way to the master cylinder.

I couldn't bleed mine to the required deflection no matter how hard I tried. Tied the lever back far enough to open the return port, & the next morning I had more deflection than I needed. As the O.P. mentioned, the first few shifts were close to the grip. As I used it things settled in, & it's been just about ideal for the last year or so."

Hope this helps!

[Coconut]

That "fix" doesn't really apply to fixing the problem the OP has,
which is that the clutch engagement ( or "Bite" ) point is with the lever
too far from the handlebar, and he would prefer it to be closer than the
maximum adjustment point of the stock lever.

Probably the simplest solution will be with after market products,
and there are several available by simply Googling "Trophy SE Clutch Lever" etc.

With regards to air in the clutch hydraulic line, there should of course be NONE.

Tie-ing the lever back part way simply opens the Master cylinder port,
and any air trapped in the line MAY rise up ( or "float" ) through the pipework
and escape into the Master Cylinder reservoir, but where pipes do not run vertically
any air is likely to remain trapped in the system, and the usual process for Bleeding
the system should be followed - using the Bleed Nipple at the Clutch Slave Cylinder,
and operating the Clutch lever while keeping the Master cylinder topped up with Fluid.

If there IS any air trapped in the system, air being more easily compressed
than hydraulic fluid, then this would result in a "spongy" feeling, and the clutch Bite point
being closer to the handlebars, as the air is compressed
before there is enough pressure to operate and disengage the clutch.

[Rick505]

Thanks all.  I don't believe I have any air in the system so I won't be bleeding or attempting to allow bubbles to rise up and out of the system.  I just wasn't aware if there were any adjustments available to the system, other than replacing the levers, if the factory levers didn't allow enough.  I guess I'm off to looking for reviews of replacement levers or simply learn to ride the bike as is.