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Offline Trumpet

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Fairing Trickeries
« on: June 30, 2013, 08:10:07 am »
Its official: The TT fairing is the undisputed pain-in-the-arses to remove of all fairing. Well, the GL may come in a close second along with the Concour. I guess fairing are not fun.

I would like to encourage all of us to make a little album of sequence of steps next time we remove the fairing or do any kind of work on the bike. We can have a dedicated thread for "how-to-do". It would be helpful to make videos also of stuff we do on the bike. It would benefit a lot of folks and help do maintenance.

The next time I remove it I will try to take a good sequence of pics for those who come after us pioneers of the 2013. But as best as I can remember:

Left side removal
* Remove the seat
* Remove the black strip on top of the gas tank surrounding the gas cap
* Remove the small rear lower panel immediately in front of the saddle bags
* Remove the two bolts on top of the glove compartment. Note the bolt most aft on the glove compartment is being held by a female bolt clip. This thing flew off when I took the glove compartment off. It is very specific in the way the clip goes into the hole on the fairing in order to grasp the glove compartment.
* Remove the most frontward bolt on the glove compartment. Depending on what you are gonna work on, you may not need to disconnect any of the electronics attached to the glove compartment. I did'nt and place it on top of the handlebars and continue with the fairing removal.

* The mirror must be folded toward the gas tank from the outer end. It folds toward the bike. In there, there are two bolts that must be removed. One had a wide shoulder (on your left) the other one is a regular bolt (you will see that most bolts are the same size).

* I removed the signal light shell, removed the signal bulb

* There are a couple of bolts on the front of the mirror.

* There are a couple of black pieces that are fillers, one is right above the left peg. It just pulls out, no bolts. The other one is on the bottom of the mirror, it is attached to a bolt.

* The rest of the bolts are intuitively obvious. They surround the perimeter of the side panel--including the inner area in the front wheel well.

* The most stupid thing I found was a couple of plastic make-believe-phillips pressure rivets that hold the left and right bottom fairing at the very bottom of the bike, below the headers. For the life of me, why did'nt they use regular bolts, I will never know. these damn things don't really screw out well, they are easy to break or bend, and they suck for holding sh#t together.

An album of sequence of the removal would be most helpful to put things back together. It is always easier to take-apart than to re-install.

 WHY YOU ASKED:
I changed my oil. I removed the left fairing because I thought I would make less of a mess removing the oil filter. My plan was to stuff a flexible funnel under the filter and catch all the dripping instead of going all over the bike--that was a dumb assumption.
In fact, the dripping falls nicely along a path without messing anything else. It is easy to wipe down after you put the new filter in.

For the curious: I used 20-50 Castrol RS per Owner Manual. At 3200 miles the oil was pretty clean. It definitely did not need to be changed. I am glad I did cause the mech who did the 600 check up did not put a crush washer on the oil drain plug. I really don't trust most maintenance procedures done in shops because bike mechs are working on time-frames per jobs. At any rate, I know it has a new filter now.

I also changed the final gear oil. It was clean as a whistle and it did not need to be changed either. I am glad I did because there was a lot of metal shavings on the drain bolt magnet. I clean that off really good. This gig takes 5 minutes and very little oil so it was worth it.

Next time, I will pop out the right side and I will definitely make an extra effort to take comprehensive pics records of the ordeal. On the right side, not having to deal with that worthless glove compartment will probably be a lot easier than the left side.

If I had money I wouldn't be on this board now
I wanna be Hefner's roommate
I trade ignorance and youth for old age anytime

Offline Coconut

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Re: Fairing Trickeries
« Reply #1 on: June 30, 2013, 10:24:21 am »
Great Write-Up -  :460:

I second the motion for a dedicated "How - To" forum  :047:

« Last Edit: January 07, 2020, 06:11:13 pm by Coconut »

Offline miss

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Re: Fairing Trickeries
« Reply #2 on: June 30, 2013, 01:34:27 pm »
to remove the oil filter, no need to remove the fairing, just remove the screw next to the filter that holds the fairing and the filter and goes wel

Offline w8d4it

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Re: Fairing Trickeries
« Reply #3 on: June 30, 2013, 05:47:35 pm »
Great idea to have a how to forum.  One that is easily searchable.   Hard to believe the tech didn't use a crush washer.  Amazing that it didn't leak.
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Offline Berber

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Re: Fairing Trickeries
« Reply #4 on: June 30, 2013, 07:51:14 pm »
Great write up thanks.
'The farther one travels, the less one knows.......'

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Offline cropbiker

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Re: Fairing Trickeries
« Reply #5 on: June 30, 2013, 07:54:21 pm »
A how to is a great idea!

I will be fitting some R&G radiator and downpipe guards in a week or 2, when I get them for my birthday! LOL

I will make sure to take pics of the process and write it up!

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Offline Saaz

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Re: Fairing Trickeries
« Reply #6 on: July 01, 2013, 11:44:24 am »
Sounds like I will be fitting all the non-factory extras myself given the time it takes, as I haven't paid a bike workshop to do work on my bikes since 1976.

Offline Trumpet

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Re: Fairing Trickeries
« Reply #7 on: July 02, 2013, 07:45:22 am »
Is there a moderator on this board?

How can a "HOW TO DO" dedicated thread can be created?
If I had money I wouldn't be on this board now
I wanna be Hefner's roommate
I trade ignorance and youth for old age anytime