Exhaust clamp problem

[H2nra]

Hi just wondering if anybody has experienced an issue with the exhaust. Where the silencer pipe slides into the main exhaust. On my bike (now with 61k on the clock) several pieces of the expanding edge of the main exhaust over which the clamp fits and under which the silencer pipe slides in have broken away meaning the silencer is clamped onto only the remaining top half of the exhaust. I hope that makes sense...

Anyway at the moment I've bodged the connection with use of part of a baked bean tin under the clamp but wondered if anybody had experience of a more robust repair. I've considered a sleeve over the connection however the exhaust shape is such that the sleeve has very little area to grip.

thanks

[skiprat]

Got my bike up on the lift doing maintenance and I can see the problem developing on my exhaust a 2012 original part, the clamp became so thin that it has broken and I can see corrosion /scale that needs cleaning from that area inside pipe and outside so it will then be that bit thinner. I have always smeared grease on the join whenever the rear pipe has been off.
The condition of the exhaust system apart from the join area appears to be good and if or when I get the same problem as you I will be looking at trying to weld some new metal on there.

[Autopilot]

I know I am resurrecting an old thread here, but I have just come across the same issue, and I cant seem to find if anyone has found a simple resolution.

In short, my exhaust is blowing!

The pic below show the clamp removed, and as you can see, the lowermost 'lug' has gone! and the next one is cracked.  I noticed this when i replaced the collar/gasket only a few weeks ago.  I have no idea where the missing lug went.

I have spoken to my tame mechanic and he says its gonna need taking off and welding, and its the 'taking-off' that is likely to be the issue as he often has to drill out the bolts.  Or I need to find someone with a tig welder that might do the job in situ.

Anyone got any ideas?

[H2nra]

Hi that’s precisely the same issue I had caused I believe by ham fisted tyre fitters bending the silencer on the clamp to allow rear wheel removal. I ended up having to remove the down pipes and getting a new flange welded on. I now remove my wheels myself by the way!

[Autopilot]

mmm that's what I thought too.

how easy is it to remove the downpipes and what's involved in removing the pipes? 
I am fine with pulling things apart, but I just haven't got the time to do it at the moment, so need to plan in when and how I am going to do it, and hopefully make do with the baked bean tins till then.

[H2nra]

I must confess that i got mine done at service at the dealer (not a triumph dealer though) . They sent it off to a specialist to be repaired including hair line cracks found in the down pipes where the cross bar is welded. I think I paid around £400 but that was a lot less than replacement down pipes. The biggest issue they had was removing the studs at the manifold mainly due to the winter riding my bike endures. The flange now fitted is much stronger. I've tried to upload an image of it now but my technical skills have failed me sorry
 
I did go down the baked bean can route for several months before the full repair but never quite managed to keep it sealed beyond a few weeks use.. 

[1675]

I would be very wary of doing any welding with the pipe in situ. It was always considered a sure fire way of damaging sensitive electronics and this bike has lots of them. You may be okay, but.....
Does the manual give any advice on welding?

[earthman]

I totally agree about the welding aspect, you got to be so careful when it comes to all the sensitive modules that modern vehicles have, sometimes just disconnecting the battery and alternator isn't enough. I know that the body shop in a college I went to did exactly that but still manage to electrically fry a module that were hidden between the back seats and floor pan.