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Offline Coconut

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Welcome to my first write - up in the new "How To" section  :400:

EDITED 22/07/17 All Images updated to new Forum Gallery Images.

EDITED 02/06/16 to add a Warning about ensuring Glove Box solenoid is re-connnected,
( if it has been disconnected ), otherwise the Glove Box lid will not open !

EDITED 03/03/14 to include details of a longer lower engine mounting required when a modified
Centre Stand bracket has been fitted, together with change of recommended tightening torque
of this bolt from 105 Nm to 80 Nm !

Today I fitted a set of R&G "Adventure" bars ( Crash Bars ),
took a few photographs along the way, and borrowed a few from R & G :

If you're thinking of doing this yourself have a read first -
I have tried to include a few hints and tips along the way .....

Do the usual unpacking carefully, inspecting for damage, and checking that all listed parts are present.

Tools needed : 
5mm & 6mm Allen keys from the Triumph Tool Kit, 16mm, 17mm and 19mm sockets and / ring spanners,
Socket wrench and a socket extension bar, Torque Wrench, optional mallet !

NOTE : It is recommended that whenever engine mounting bolts are removed,
they may be re-used, but new lock nuts should be fitted.

NOTE : The Allen keys supplied in the Triumph toolkit will do the job, but be VERY careful when using them -
it is quite easy to slip, and the other end of the key can easily scratch the adjacent paintwork  :005:
Where possible use a straight hex tool like this :


( See also the attached "Word" document at the end of this "HOW TO", with reference drawings showing the locations of the various screws that need to be removed for fairing removal ( and replaced afterwards ! )

Remove pillion & rider seats - disconnecting the wiring plugs if you have heated seats :

Remove the four bolts securing the fuel tank cover.
Two are exposed when you remove the rider seat :

... and there are two at the front.
NOTE : The two front bolts are 20mm long, whereas the majority of
the other Fairing fixing bolts, with the exception of two of the side panel bolts,
and the two front indicator retaining bolts, are all 16mm long :

After removing the 4 bolts lift the panel up off the tank and put it to one side :

Next remove the right Side panel which is held by two bolts :

Once the bolts are removed, ease the top edge of the panel away from the bike to clear the helmet hook,
then pull the panel upwards to free it from the lower rubber retainers, and place it to one side.
Where a heated riders seat is fitted, the switch is located in the left side panel :

Remove the left Side panel carefully, and lay it on top of the bike frame :

There is no need to separate the electrical connector which is quite small and could easily be damaged.

Underneath the belly pan locate the two “Push rivets” holding the two halves of the fairing together. 
There is a knack to removing these without damaging them !
Use a small Phillips screwdriver to carefully unscrew each “rivet”, but do not use any downwards pressure -
just unscrew it gently and allow it to withdraw.
The threads of the “rivet” are very fine and are designed to be pushed home when fitting / refitting. 
Any downwards pressure will not allow the threads to unscrew.
Once the rivet part is out the body can be withdrawn - Take them both out and put them aside :

Remove the triangular infill panel from in front of and below the radiator, by releasing the two bolts - one on each top corner,
noting how the edges of this piece fit into the edges of the fairing, and how the bottom locates on a lug near the “Push rivet” holes :

Remove the two bolts from the panel underneath the headlamp,
noting that these bolts have washers under their heads :

Slide the panel forwards carefully to release it from its’ retaining lugs and note
the exposed connector for the “Ambient Air Temperature" sensor.
Carefully disconnect the wiring plug from the sensor by releasing the plastic retaining latch,
and place the panel to one side.

Remove the two side infill panels, ( either side of the front wheel ),
by removing two bolts from each panel - one at the forward edge and one at the bottom :

The top edges engage with rubber retainers and can be eased out :

From each side of the bike, remove the two small panels. 
These are only held by rubber retainers - carefully ease them out. ( Right side shown) :

Remove the fairing retaining bolts now exposed - one on each side :

Remove the single bolt securing the cover above the battery and remove the cover
by lifting up and back - the front edge is held by two rubber retainers.

The mirrors fold out of their pods - Carefully pull the outer edge of the right hand mirror away from the pod,
and fold it in towards the centre of the bike.
Undo the now exposed wiring plug for the indicator by depressing
( not pulling ! ) the spring wire retainer, and easing the plug off the socket :

Undo the single bolt retaining the indicator, noting it has a larger head than the other bolts,
and remove the indicator,  by sliding it out from the recess, noting the lug on the end
of the indicator body that engages in a corresponding slot :

Now the indicator is removed another bolt is revealed.  This secures the upper side cowl.
Remove the bolt and carefully ease the panel out by pulling it staright forwards away from the bike.
Note how the lugs engage around the headlamp.
( This bolt was actually missing from my bike on both sides ! The panel being removed here,
is also retained though (when the indicator is fitted ), by the indicator retaining bolt ) :

Next we need to remove the lower mirror surround by removing the three retaining bolts,
and gently separating it by pulling it away from the rubber end piece ( circled and dotted ! )
" X" shows the Glove box - lift up to reveal the screw !
NOTE : These Photo's are of the left side mirror housing !:

We can now prepare to remove the main side fairing panel.  Undo the remaining four bolts :
One on top - note how the fairing engages on a black plastic lug next to the bolt :

One at the front next to the headlamp - again note how the fairing is located on a protruding black plastic peg :

One low down at the rear :

and a fourth where the two halves of the fairing join together at the rear of the fuel tank :

Carefully lift the fairing up and off its locating pegs and remove it from the bike. 
Place it down somewhere carefully where it will not get scratched !

Processes 10 to 16 above, can now be repeated on the left side of the bike.

Undo the external retaining bolt for the glove box, and also the one from inside it.
There is no need to fully remove the glove box, to avoid disturbing the electrical connections,
and to simply lift it slightly out of the housing as shown :
( If you do remove the electrical connectors ensure that on re-assembly the Lock Solenoid
is reconnected.  Failure to do so will result in being unable to open the lid,
and if the Glove box has been screwed back in place, the internal screw will be inaccessible ! !

Continue until the left fairing panel has been removed.


Edited 25/02/16 to add the following note :

NOTE : See later posts in this thread for reports that some Members have found
the Upper Left Mounting Bracket to be approx. 12mm too long,
causing the Bars to protrude further on the left side of the bike than the right. 
This appears to be either a production or design error. ( R&G have been informed ).
With thanks to several Members including Maxwell, BobMcT, and Xsv
for highligting the issue and resolution.

Slacken the lower engine mounting bolt located near the side stand pivot. The nut has a 17mm head. 
The other end of the bolt has a 16mm head - use a 16mm socket or spanner to stop the bolt from turning
and unscrew the nut no more than 10mm. 
NOTE: If you have the additional Centre Stand modified bracket fitted, this is attached at the same point.
The R & G Kit should include a slightly longer replacement threaded shaft. 
Use this to push the old bolt out from the left hand side, after slackening the brake cylinder bolts
on the right side of the bike, and moving it out of the way to allow the head of the bolt to clear it.
Full instructions are included with the R & G Kit.

Use a soft mallet or similar to tap the bolt through so that it protrudes 10mm on the other side of the bike,
then fully remove the nut.  It is recommended to use a new lock nut when refitting later :

Completely remove the front right upper engine mounting bolt :

This is quite awkward, there is a hose in the way that can be unclipped.
The head of the bolt is 16mm, while the nut has a 17mm head.
It is quite awkward to get at as it is on the inside of the bracket.
The best way of accessing it is to use a long socket extension bar from the other side of the bike.
NOTE : It is recommended to use new locking nuts on all engine mounting bolts whenever they are removed.

Select the right hand welded assembly from the R & G kit ( Part No.6 )
and using the longer bolt ( which has a 19mm head ) and washer also provided in the R&G kit, ( Parts 3 & 7 )
with a new lock nut, fit the assembly to the engine mount, but do not fully tighten yet :

Offer the main side fairing panel up and hang it in place on its locating pegs,
to ensure that the mounting bars protrude correctly through the gaps in the fairing mesh side grill. 
If not, a small amount of adjustment can be made by slackening the engine mounting bolt and re-positioning the part :

Once satisfied with the position, remove the fairing panel and tighten the mounting bolt,
but do not fully tighten at this stage.

Now move to left side of the bike and remove the front left upper engine mounting bolt.
This is just as awkward as the right side, and there’s also a wiring harness in the way to contend with !
Remove the bolt in the same manner as the right hand side.  This time the original bolt will be re-used.

Follow the same procedure as with the right hand side by fitting the welded assembly ( R & G Part No. 2 )
using the original mounting bolt, washer, and a new lock nut, but do not fully tighten yet. 
Hang the left side fairing on its mounting lugs and again check that the mounting bars protrude through the fairing side mesh grill :

Adjust the position if necessary, then remove the fairing panel and tighten the engine mounting bolt,
but not fully at this stage.

The two side brackets are now connected together using a Spanning Bar - Part No.8
from the R & G Kit,  with 2 x Part No. 9, and 2 x Part No. 10.
Fit the Spanning bar between the two brackets, and secure using washers and bolts as shown.
Tighten the bolts, enough to hold them in position, but do not fully tighten them yet :

Rehang the two side fairing panels temporarily.
On the right hand side offer up the Adventure bar, ensuring that the lower forked end
engages fully with the lower engine mounting bolt, and with the washer
on the outside of the bar - directly under the head of the bolt
( or nut if the longer replacement bolt has been used ) :

Temporarily fit the two Allen bolts and washers ( 2 x Parts 3 & 4 from the R & G Kit ),
to attach the upper end of the Adventure bar to the mounting bracket.
NOTE : In my opinion, the 2mm thick Stainless steel washers provided in the kit, should have a smaller hole.
The bolt size is 10mm diameter, but the washers have an internal diameter of 13mm.
You may wish to source some replacement washers so that they don't wander off centre when tightened:

If the forked end of the right hand Adventure Bar does not line up and engage fully with the lower engine mounting bolt,
make any adjustments that are necessary at the upper engine mount,
where the bar attaches to the welded assembly bracket - using the two Allen headed bolts,
and at the Spanning Bar.

Once you are satisifed that everything lines up correctly on both sides,
remove the Fairings again, and tighten the Upper engine mounting bolts on both sides ( 40nM recommended maximum ).
Tighten the Spanning Bar bolts ( No torque specified ), and rehang the Fairings on both sides.

With the fairing panels rehung, the Adventure bars can now be fitted  :169:
Offer each bar into position and bolt the upper bracket to the mounting bars
using 2 x Parts 3 & 4 from the R & G Kit, ensuring that the right hand bar
correctly engages with the lower engine mounting bolt as described,
and that the left bar engages fully over the end of the engine mounting bolt :

Refit the lower engine mounting bolt / bar with new locknut(s), which should be tightened to 80Nm :

The main fairing panels and all other panels can now be refitted -
in the reverse sequence to which they were taken off !
You’ll no doubt have a scan back through the instructions to see what order that was  :150:

Before riding, and after the next ride, make sure to check all bolts for tightness, and regularly thereafter  :028:

The finished job  :152:

« Last Edit: February 23, 2020, 12:13:25 pm by Coconut »

Offline Leak

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Nice job Coconut, thanks for the in-depth guide  :062:        One question though  :187:

WHEN ARE YOU FREE TO FIT MINE  :745: :745: :745: :745:
ʎɐqǝ uo pɹɐoqʎǝʞ ɐ ʎnq ı ǝɯıʇ ʇsɐן ǝɥʇ sı sıɥʇ

Offline cropbiker

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Hey coconut, that is a GREAT how to!

Have you ever considered a career writing technical manuals?

I will be printing this off and keeping it very safe

Thanks for taking the time to do it, I am sure many of us will benefit!

 :460: :821: :460:
Triumph Trophy! Not for every Tomaz, Dieter or Herman!🇬🇧

Offline Coconut

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Re: HOW TO : How to fit R&G Adventure ( Crash ) Bars inc. removing the
« Reply #3 on: July 12, 2013, 10:48:39 pm »
Cheers Cropbiker,

One tries you know, one tries  :008:

I'm too old to start a new career though  :164:

« Last Edit: March 30, 2020, 05:25:08 pm by Coconut »

Offline Bajagrngo

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I'm impressed!  Also lazy and lacking patience and talent. So it's the dealer install for me.
Tom Brennan

Offline Chaos

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Brilliant post my friend  :028: :028: :028:

Ride long & prosper.
Live to ride. Ride int rain.

Offline crazyman

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Nicely done.  I could have used this when I had my faring off.  Better than the $100 service manual.

Offline Desertaire

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Great start to a How To Section. :152: