Guide for gear lever strip down?

[simbad]

Hi folks

Is there a step guide to servicing the gear lever mechanism? Have a long trip coming up and wanted to take a little precaution here.

Read through lots of the gear lever bolts but could use a step guide if there is one. Lots of advice on lock-tite and torque settings but wondered how to go about it -

Have seen that some talk about removing panels  / foot pegs etc. But thought I'd ask first.

Thanks 

[Coconut]

Hi simbad,

Consider that if you are going to remove the Pivot Bolt for either the Gear Change Pedal,
or Rear Brake Pedal, there is a real risk of the bolt shearing off as you undo it -
because it is fixed in TIGHT with thread locking compound, and if it has already
suffered any excess stress then trying to undo it might break it off !

For your long trip it may be better to buy a spare one ( or two ! ) just in case - and carry it with you.

At least then if it does break during the trip you "only" need to find a mechanic with the right tools,
and won't be stuck waiting days or more for the Spare Part to arrive from Triumph !

Part Number : T3331400 - RRP is £5.45 inc. VAT from a Triumph Dealer 

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To access the Gear Pedal pivot and adjustment, the left Side Control Plate has to be removed.

NOTE : Before commencing work - the Service Manual calls for all three Torx headed bolts,
and the 14mm Nut described below, to be replaced with new ones !
( Some Members have re-used them without any problems ! )

The Service Manual says to remove the left side Fairing, in order to remove the small panel
( Gear Linkage Cover ) - that has the Power socket fixed to it, but this is not necessary.

The Side Control Plate is secured by Five fixings :

One is underneath the "Heel Guard" - behind the footrest, secured by two ( 5mm ) Allen Head screws.

Removing the Heel Guard will reveal a 14mm Bolt Head fixing with a nut on the "other" side.
( This is the lower rear subframe nut and bolt, and is the first one to remove ).

In front of the Footrest is an 8mm Allen Head Bolt for the Side Stand,
and is the second fixing to be removed.

There are then Three Torx head bolts ( T40 ) which are TIGHT.
They have blue "Loctite" type material applied to their threads.
These should be removed last.

Once the Side Control Plate has been removed you will be able to see the Gear Change Linkage,
and the plastic panel to the left can be carefully pulled away without removing it completely
to give better access ( i.e. without removing the complete Fairing as above ! ).
If I remember correctly one of the screws holding that panel can be removed with the Fairing still in place.

Undo the Gear Change Pivot bolt using a good quality tool and firm inwards pressure
to ensure it does not slip - the bolt is TIGHT and may shear off - you wil then need the means
to remove the remaining stud, which will probably have to be drilled out then helicoiled.

On re-assembly note that the Torx head bolts have shoulders that sit inside inside the holes
of the Side Control Plate helping to ensure it is in the correct position, so make sure they are all
correctly engaged before tightening them !

The rear subframe mounting can be awkward to line up again, and might need a little gentle "persuasion" !

The Heel Guard also has similar, but smaller, shoulders on the two 5mm Allen bolts.

Tightening Torques :

3 x Control Plate Torx Head Fixings : 25Nm
Rear Subframe Nut & Bolt Fixing : 60Nm
Side Stand Allen Head Fixing : 45Nm

If adjusting the Gear Pedal Position take a measurement from fixed points first,
e.g. from the garage floor to the bottom of the pedal rubber etc,
so you have a reference as to how much the pedal has been moved,
or so that it can be re-assembled in the same position if you've taken it all apart !

If you adjust the position by moving the fixing on the splined Gearbox input shaft,
ensure that when the pedal is fully deflected upwards, as when changing UP a gear,
the pedal does not come into contact with the engine side cover casing,
restricting it's movement, which is likely to result in "missed" gear changes  !

More minor adjustments can be made by loosening the lock nuts on the upper and lower ends
of the adjusting rod, and then turning the rod which has a left hand thread on one end
and a right hand thread on the other end, so that turning the rod one way increases it's length,
and the other way shortens it, thus changing the pedal position.

Cheers 

[simbad]

Thanks Coconut - as ever - this is just what I was looking for.  Am assuming the brake lever is similar process?

Might be worth a keeping as a guide / sticky for reference - I don't think I read anything collated together like your post. 

Donation made to some amazing grandchildren! 

[Coconut]

Cheers Simbad 

I've got a 2 week trip next month to South Spain, on my 2017 Trophy
and I'll be taking a couple of these Pivot Bolts with me.

Hopefully I will have ZERO problems and the Bolts will enjoy their free holiday in the Sun ! 

[simbad]

Have a good trip -

Me and missus off to Northern Spain next month for 2 weeks.

May see you on the ferry - '16 Trophy in Black.

Just checked price of those Torx bolts you're meant to replace £7.67 + VAT each 

[Coconut]

If I'm on the Ferry there will have been a serious leak in the Eurotunnel ! 

[john348]

I regularly lube the pivot on the gear change side and have never replaced the bolts?  I suppose if you wanted to you could put some loctite under the heads (on purpose I do not use loctite on the treads but just under the head) but I do not do that either on these bolts.  The bolts have never been loose when I come to strip it down.  I have drilled my pivot bolt and used a higher spec bolt through the middle but this is mentioned somewhere else. 

Enjoy the trip.

[trophied]

I also have a couple of spare pivot bolts that will travel with me as I found both of mine bent but still removeable, and a couple of spare spring keepers (best way to not lose them is reinstall them on the joints while you clean them up for fresh lubricant), and a couple of the felt seals for the Heim joints since the ends of the keepers tend to damage them.  I didn't use any Loctite or replace any of the panel bolts on mine when I reinstalled everything.  After doing it once I think it will seem much simpler next time.