Author [NL] [FR] [ES] [DE] [SE] [IT] Topic: HOW TO: Flip the front drag link bolt if incorrectly installed  (Read 3202 times)

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  • Offline Jubeeprince

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    Offline Jubeeprince

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    HOW TO: Flip the front drag link bolt if incorrectly installed
    on: Jun 29, 2018, 03.37 am
    Jun 29, 2018, 03.37 am
    This post will attempt to correct the problem of the one of the bolts on the drag link (wishbone) being installed improperly from the factory. If this is not remedied, you will not be able to service the bearings on the drag link as outlined in the service manual.

    The three bolts that comprise the drag link assembly are #24 (2), and #31(1). ALL three of the bolt heads should be on the silencer (right) side of the machine. The parts manual INCORRECTLY shows #31 oriented with the head of the bolt on the shaft drive (left) side of the machine.



    In order to service the drag link (wishbone), the bike needs to be on the center stand. If the center stand is deployed, it is impossible to remove this bolt from the shaft drive (left) side. Before you can service the drag link per the manual, you MUST have all three bolt heads (two of #24 and the one #31) on the left side of the machine.

    My bike is a 2016 SE. I do not know how many of these bikes are affected, but my bike has less than 4K on it and the #31 bolt is installed wrong. The photo of my bike shows the bolt orientation per the parts manual, but this is INCORRECT.



    The fix for this is relatively simple. It took me about 30 minutes total time to do and that's with a couple of modifications to my tools and procedures.

    You will need:

    1) Torque wrench
    2) 2 18mm socket wrenches (or one socket wrench and one ring or open end spanner)
    3) a piece of 12mm steel rod or threaded rod at least 12" in length (I used two smaller pieces ~6" and ~8")
    4) Hammer!

    First, make sure bike is on a level, stable surface. Concrete or asphalt is ideal. Place the bike on the side stand NOT the center stand.

    1)Loosen the nut (#21) off the bolt(#31). Leave the end of the nut flush with the end of the bolt.

    2) Using the hammer and the piece of round stock or threaded rod, tap the end of the bolt to verify that it's moving.



    3) Once you verify the bolt is moving, remove the nut. Notice the sleeve (#32, looks like a washer on the bolt) in the drag link. This stays in place, do not remove.



    4) Keeping the end of the rod in contact with the end of the bolt, continue to drive the bolt out until the rod drifts out the bolt in the drag link and the rod takes its place. Rod in place, bolt out.





    5) Continue to drive the rod toward the drive shaft (left) side (using the bolt or second piece of rod as a drift) until the end of the rod is flush with the sleeve.

    6) Now, drive the bolt in from the silencer (right) side, so that the bolt acts as a drift and replaces the rod. (this is where a second piece of rod comes in handy as you can drive the bolt head with the second rod. It's pretty tight to get the head of a hammer in there when the bolt is close to being driven home.)





    7) Put the nut back on the bolt, and torque to spec (I used some Loctite blue 242 on the nut.)

    All three bolts on the drag link are now assembled in the correct orientation and you will be able to service the drag link per the manual just using the center stand.

    Couple of caveats:

    1) If you use a smooth rod like I did, (or a cut, threaded rod) you may want to chamfer the leading edge of the rod. As I drove the bolt out, there was a very slight 'step' between the sleeve and the bearing in the drag link. Probably due to the weight of the bike. The rod would not progress past this point until I put a chamfer on the leading edge:



    2) I found a second piece of rod to be very helpful in driving the bolt back in once it's started as the space under there is tight and it will help to keep from dinging the frame or exhaust pipe with the hammer.

    I hope someone finds this helpful! My reason for doing this job is two-fold:

    a) I have a set of Lust Racing lowering links that I want to put on the bike to lower it a bit (I have a 32" inseam) so I can get more of my feet on the ground. You can't install the links without the bolts all facing the same way. Interestingly, the diagram included with the lowering links shows all the bolts in the same, correct orientation.

    b) While my drag link bearings don't need service yet, it will be much easier for me to do it when the time comes, or if I decide to let a service dept. do it, there's a better chance of it being done, because now the service manual will make sense to the technician!

    If there are any errors or steps I overlooked, please let me know and I will edit accordingly.

    I hope someone finds all this helpful!

    Cheers,

    Steve








  • Offline earthman   gb

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    Re: HOW TO: Flip the front drag link bolt if incorrectly installed
    Reply #1 on: Jun 29, 2018, 09.14 am
    Jun 29, 2018, 09.14 am
    I've already lathed up a rod funny enough, plan on doing mine today, the thought of only one half of that link taking the weight of the bike even for a brief second makes me sudder. Bloody Triumph factory,....why couldn't they have assembled this correctly in the first place!!!

  • Offline Jubeeprince

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    Offline Jubeeprince

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    Re: HOW TO: Flip the front drag link bolt if incorrectly installed
    Reply #2 on: Jun 29, 2018, 11.54 am
    Jun 29, 2018, 11.54 am
    I thought about that too, earthman. If you look at my drag link photo, you'll see that even after the rod leaves the spacer, it's still supported by the drag link itself and the frame pivot on the drive shaft side which in my estimation is at least 2/3 of the the entire length. If you put the chamfer on the rod before drifting the bolt out and keep the rod in contact with the bolt throughout it shouldn't be an issue.

    One other caveat I thought of: if you own an older bike with more miles, a liberal dose of Liquid Wrench or other penetrating oil on the nut, bolt, and the pivot points between the drag link and the frame will probably make this job much easier. In hindsight, I suspect if I hadn't driven the bolt out dry, there's a chance I could have gotten away without adding the chamfer.

    Cheers,

    Steve

  • Offline earthman   gb

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    Offline earthman

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    Re: HOW TO: Flip the front drag link bolt if incorrectly installed
    Reply #3 on: Jun 29, 2018, 05.31 pm
    Jun 29, 2018, 05.31 pm
    I had a bit of a nightmare trying to knock the bolt back in, had the wife wiggle a second tapered rod on the left hand side of the bike before it finally went in.

    If only I had made the first rod shorter, to be able to remove it  once it went on the main stand, because pushing it off the main stand obviously unseized these components which didn't help with alignment of the holes.

    So I have the bolt head on the correct side now but like the manual says, still can't remove that bolt completely so what about the washer/sleeve that's directly behind it,.....hope that you don't have to remove/replace that or we are back to square one??

  • Offline Jubeeprince

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    Offline Jubeeprince

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    Re: HOW TO: Flip the front drag link bolt if incorrectly installed
    Reply #4 on: Jun 29, 2018, 06.15 pm
    Jun 29, 2018, 06.15 pm
    *Originally Posted by earthman [+]
    So I have the bolt head on the correct side now but like the manual says, still can't remove that bolt completely...
    Not sure I understand what you're saying here?

    *Originally Posted by earthman [+]
    so what about the washer/sleeve that's directly behind it??

    AIUI, that shouldered sleeve (#32 in parts diagram) stays on the exhaust side. This is how I did mine.

    Steve

  • Offline earthman   gb

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    Offline earthman

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    Re: HOW TO: Flip the front drag link bolt if incorrectly installed
    Reply #5 on: Jun 29, 2018, 09.16 pm
    Jun 29, 2018, 09.16 pm
    *Originally Posted by Jubeeprince [+]
    Not sure I understand what you're saying here?

    AIUI, that shouldered sleeve (#32 in parts diagram) stays on the exhaust side. This is how I did mine.

    Steve

    What I'm saying is that even when you put that bolt in correctly, you cannot remove it completely from the bike when it's on the main stand, you can retract it enough to be able to remove the wishbone, which is at least much better than before.

    If part number 32 is just a shouldered sleeve, hopefully it won't need replacing otherwise I'll have to do this dodgy procedure again ,....that's the point I were making. :002:

  • Offline Jubeeprince

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    Offline Jubeeprince

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    Re: HOW TO: Flip the front drag link bolt if incorrectly installed
    Reply #6 on: Jun 29, 2018, 10.32 pm
    Jun 29, 2018, 10.32 pm
    *Originally Posted by earthman [+]
    What I'm saying is that even when you put that bolt in correctly, you cannot remove it completely from the bike when it's on the main stand, you can retract it enough to be able to remove the wishbone, which is at least much better than before.

    Understood. Apparently, there is not a facility for me to edit my original post, so replace the sentence: "If the center stand is deployed, it is impossible to remove this bolt from the shaft drive (left) side."

    With this: "If the center stand is deployed, it is impossible to extract the bolt on the shaft drive (left) side enough to be able to release the the drag link from the frame."

    Cheers,

    Steve

     



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