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Offline Coconut

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What to look for when Buying a Pre-Owned ( Used ) Trophy SE
« on: September 29, 2018, 10:56:07 AM »
I've compiled a list of the most common issues to be aware of when buying a previously owned Trophy.

To keep this Topic as a Reference rather than Discussion Topic,
I have "locked" it - but please feel free to send me a PM with anything I've missed off the list !  :169:

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The Trophy first produced in 2012 was discontinued in 2017,
( There may have been no actual Production since 2016 ).

All Trophy models had 2 years unlimited mileage warranty from the date of first registration.

In addition to the usual checking of Service Records,
here is a list of things to keep an eye out for when buying a Previously owned Trophy :

Handbooks :
There should be 3 ( 2 for the Non SE Model ).
Owners Handbook, Service Handbook, and Audio Handbook.
These may be found in a storage recess on the underside of the Pillion Seat.

Audio Software Version :
ALL US / Canadian Export Models ( But NOT applicable to any other Markets ).
Check the Audio Software Version.  The first Software release ( Version 1.04A ) had a "bug"
that in some instances could result in the XM Radio Audio module not shutting down
when the Ignition was turned Off, resulting in the Main Battery being completely drained,
which then required replacement of the Main Battery.
A Software update was released ( Version 1.04E ) that fixed this issue,
but there are many Trophies that have not been updated. 
See this Topic ( one of many ) for details on how to check the Software Version :
Help Needed: Battery Drained, Again

"Diagnostic Trouble Codes" ( DTC's ) - Triumph's Name for "Fault Codes :
These can be checked for and displayed on the Instrument Panel.
See this Topic for how to do that, and check at the foot of Post Reply #8 to download
a list of the various DTC's that may be displayed, with a brief description of their meaning :
Servicing Data, Reference Info. & DTC ( Fault ) Codes

Ignition Wiring Fault
A number of Trophy Owners ( all Years ) have reported failure of the Ignition switch wiring,
due to it being mis-routed around the Headstock and becoming stretched when the handlebars
are turned fully right, or becoming trapped by the Front Brake Hose - this can result in wire(s)
being pulled out of the base of the Ignition switch, or physically cut by the scissoring action
of the brake hose against it, and the engine cutting out or not starting.
Check the handlebars for free movement from lock to lock with the Ignition ON.
If faulty the Ignition or some circuits may switch Off briefly when the handlebars are turned 
fully to the right.  See this Topic for more information : Ignition Switch DIY Repair.

Front Disc Brakes :
These seem to be prone to developing what appears to be Warping of the discs.
While the Discs may be warped, this could also be due to the "Bobbins"
on which the Discs Semi-Float, becoming seized, and the Discs running out of true -
though not warped, in such a condition they can exhibit the same "pulsing"
that would be experienced if they were warped, but this can be remedied
by cleaning and freeing the Bobbins with proprietary Brake Cleaner.
Topic ( amongst many others ) here : Front Brakes Pulsing

Rear Suspension lower Drag Link Bearings :
If these Bearings seize ( particularly the forward one ) it can lead to BREAKAGE of the Drag Link,
as discussed in detail here : Drag Link failure - Rear Suspension
They are scheduled to be stripped down, inspected and lubricated every 20,000 miles, or 2 years.
Many Members now carry out this procedure routinely at least every year.  :169:

Gear Change Pedal Pivot Bolt breakage :
( Also applies to the Rear Brake Pedal Pivot Bolt ). 
Several Members have had this part break - shearing off flush with the engine casing,
resulting in being unable to change gear, and the broken stud having to be drilled out.
Check for smooth and free operation of the Pivot.
The same part is used on the Rear Brake Pedal but for some reason this seems far less prone to breaking.
Topic here : History of Shifter Lever bolt breaking ?

Final Drive Casing Corrosion :
Look for peeling or bubbling black paint indicating that the underlying alloy casing is corroding.

Radiator Corrosion :
Difficult to see and access behind the Fairing Panels, but some Members have reported
corrosion of the Radiator, with the Paint covering flaking away.

Coolant Leaks
Check the expansion Tank level - visible from inside the left front wheel arch,
and for any obvious signs of leaks on the shop floor - sometimes attributable to loose hose clamps.

Oil Leaks :
Check underneath the Trophy for any signs of an Oil leak -
sometimes attributable to loose Crankcase bolts.

Heated Handlebar Grips :
Note that every Trophy is equipped with the Handlebar Switch
for Heated Handlebar Grips - but the Grips themselves are an Optional Accessory,
so they may not be fitted - Some Dealers will advertise the Bike has Heated Grips
because of the switch being there, without having checked they are actually fitted !
Note that the Heated Grips only heat up when the engine is running.

TPMS ( Tyre Pressure Monitoring System ) :
All Trophy SE Models had TPMS as standard equipment from new. 
The non SE Model had this as an Option.
With age, the internal sensor batteries drain, throwing up a 
"WARNING - BATTERY LOW FRONT ( or REAR ) TYRE" Message on the Instrument Panel.
The TPMS Sensors are not designed to have their batteries replaced,
and the complete sensor would normally need to be replaced.
( Some Members have had limited success in breaking open the Sensor casing
and soldering new batteries in ). 
Some Owners have decided to have the TPMS system disabled by a Dealer,
or by use of the After Market "DealerTool" device,
so that the nagging Warning Message is not displayed at all.
Check during a Test Ride that the TPMS system is functioning -
the Pressures only appear in the display after riding for a short distance.

Motorised Screen :
Check for smooth travel across the full range UP and DOWN -
Some Screens have been reported to be temperamental - either sticking,
or refusing to move UP or DOWN beyond a certain point.

Top Box & Lock Barrel :
The Triumph Top Box is an optional accessory.
All NEW Trophies were supplied with a spare lock barrel for use in the Top Box,
negating the need for a separate key.  It was usually found inside the Tool Roll
under the riders seat, or in the Glove Box.
Check this is present if the Trophy you are considering doesn't have a Top Box,
especially if you may get a TopBox at a later date - it will be difficult to get a new Barrel keyed alike.

Cylinder Head “Upgrade”

There was an "issue" with some of the very first Trophy production bikes
where the Cyclinder Head could develop a rattling noise.

Triumph didn't issue a "Recall" for this, but did offer a Free of charge "Upgrade"
which involved a modifcation to the Cylinder Head.

This only applied to Trophy models with VIN Number up to 602960,
after which the Modification was already incorporated.

There is a very old Topic - dating back to November 2013, ( which runs to 65 pages ! ) here :

Engine up-grade email from Triumph


ECU RECALL 2012-13.
The first few Trophies from VIN Number 561284 to 637165 were subject to an ECU Recall,
so check with a Triumph Dealer that this has been done if it falls withn that VIN Range.

Centre Stand Recall ( RM2013/033 )
From VIN 561284 to 590855 ( Build dates 01/06/12 to 28/02/13  ).
The Centre Stand Recall added a strengthening bracket.
After the above range a modification to the Frame was utilised and the bracket was not needed..

Other Recalls and Service Bulletins
Any Triumph Dealer shoud be able to confirm which other Recalls and TSB's are applicable,
and whether they have been carried out.  These incude, but may not be limited to :
TSB 473 - Side Stand Pivot Bolt - Retorque ( 20 Nm ) -
With thanks to Member Novocatrian for the information on this one, and,
TSB 486 - Gear Change Pedal - reposition.

Cheers  :821:



« Last Edit: October 15, 2019, 09:05:21 AM by Coconut »
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