Servicing the rear suspension (Lower Drop Link and Drag Link)

[Ernest T]

Even though I don't have the seals and new lock nuts yet, I decided to go ahead and start working on the suspension.  Since this is the first time I've done this I had to reverse the bolt in the front of the drag link, so I decided to mostly follow the complete procedure in the service manual.  i guess I don't ride in inclement weather and I know I don't ride on salty roads --my bearings were in pretty good shape even though there wasn't any sign that they had ever been lubed.

Unless you have a bike lift, a creeper will come in handy, so will a small floor jack.



First, I removed the luggage, then the center stand and exhaust system to get access to the drag link. 

The center stand is held on by two bolts, but you also need to remove a bracket to back the front bolt all the way out of the drag link. This is the exhaust side bolt.



You can see where the center stand bolt was on the gear shift side (I forgot to take a pic) just to the right of the shock sprin.



This is the bracket that also needs removed.  One bolt is the center stand pivot and the other is just in front of the side stand.



The exhaust is connected at only two points, the muffler and the pipe.

Loosen this clamp.



Then remove this bolt and lift the exhaust off the bike.



Before I started taking the suspension apart, I had to address the issue of supporting the bike without a center stand when the suspension is disassembled.  I had some MDF laying around the shop so I made this contraption to hold the bike up while I took suspension apart to lube it. Its two pieces with a wedge driven between them to tighten them up. 



Once I was sure the bike wasn't going to fall on me, I started on the front drag link mount.

The before picture.  You can see the aluminum spacer on the right in the picture.  The stainless steel sleeve is to the left of the spacer.



I removed the nut from the front bolt and used a drift I made out of a 12MM bolt to drive the mounting bolt out of the drag link.  The seals and bearing looked pretty good so I just used my finger to apply grease to the bearing.  I will have to replace the bearing at some point and I think it would be easy to drive out with a socket of appropriate size. I used a small floor jack to push up on the bottom of the shock to align the holes in the drag link with the mounting points.

Pic of the two tools I used to drift out the nuts and sleeves.  Be careful you don't tear up a seal or bearing when trying to push out the sleeves.  You don't have a lot of edge to get a purchase.  I lubed the sleeves before putting them back in so they will come out easy the next time I do this.



Using the floor jack to align the front drag link holes.  I ended up mangling a seal and had to disassemble the whole thing, but I'll need the jack to put it back together again.



The cleaned and lubed front of the drag link.  It's not connected to the rear shock so it's hanging down in this picture. You can clearly see the aluminum spacer to the right of the drag link.



I was a little confused by the illustrated parts break down and how the parts went together, especially the front of the drag link.  Thanks to JeffB and 1675 for their help with this.



This picture is drawn looking down at the drag link. The drop links are not shown.



A few pictures of the process of disassembling the bottom of the shock from the drag link and cleaning and reassembling.  It's essentially the same as the front without the spacer.

The drag link disconnected from the lower shock.



This is what the sleeve looked like, it's pristine where the bearings roll on it, the corrosion is between the two sides of the drag link and the shock mount.  It won't have any effect on the operation of the suspension and if I replaced it, the replacement would look like in short order.



The drop links are connected to the swing arm the same way the rest of the suspension is tied together.  A bolt and sleeve with two roller bearings.  The top ones looked good too.



The long spacer goes through the bearings to connect with the drop link on the other side.



I'm essentially done, I need one seal and the three lock nuts to put the suspension back together, then I will reinstall the exhaust and the center stand.

[Ernest T]

Coconut brought it to my attention that not all bikes have the center stand bracket.  It was installed under a recall and affects VIN Range 561284 - 590855

[1675]

Instead of the wood packing between the tyre and bike, you could have left the sidestand on the bike, removed the centre stand, then removed the M12 nut from the right side of the front wishbone. Then using your drift (made from the cut down bolt) drifted out the M12 bolt. Leaving the drift in, put the centre stand back on and put the bike up on it. Then the drift can be removed to allow the wishbone to be taken out to service the bearings. Upon completion, put the bolt in from the right hand side to aid the next service. (Hope I gott hat lot right, I'm going off memory

[Saddle Tramp]

Excellent write-up Ernest T. 
Detailed “How To’s” like this make it much easier to tackle new projects for the first time. Given the fact that my closest Dealer is more than three hours ride away, coupled with the fact that they don’t offer loaners when your bike need overnight service, I find myself doing more and more of the required Services myself.

[LarryJa]

I lubed & serviced the rear suspension yesterday. It was a good rainy Spring day task.
It went much easier & the bearings were in better shape than I had anticipated. However, with neglect, I can see how the suspension could deteriorate quickly, once lubrication fails.
It'll definitely be on my annual preseason maintenance list from now on.

[digital]

Good job Ernest T and thanks for sharing.

[Philpat]

If I need to purchase new bearings and seals are they standard sizes that fit straight in and can be bought from any good bearing stockists?

[Coconut]

Here's a List of the parts that may be needed :

      
SWINGARM ASSEMBLY to Drop Links ( Upper ends of the Drop Links) :
1 x T2057399   Ground Sleeve, 90mm               
2 x T3800199   Bearing Needle, FC 20 x 26 x 16 ( "FC" = "Full Complement" )
2 x T3600178   Seal, 20 x 26 x 4
1 x T3350234   Locknut, Flanged M12 x 1.25

REAR SUSPENSION UNIT TO DRAG LINK ( and lower ends of the DropLinks ) :
1 x T2057399   Ground Sleeve, 90mm
2 x T3800199   Bearing Needle Roller, FC 20 x 26 x 16 ( Drag Link )
4 x T3600178   Seal, 20 x 26 x 4
1 x T3350234   Locknut, Flanged, M12 x 1.25
1x T2057502   Needle Bearing Kit ( RSU )

FRAME TO DRAG LINK ( Front of Drag Link ) :
1 x T2057354   Sleeve, Linkage, Dia 20.0 x 30.5
1 x T3800060   Bearing, Needle Roller, 20 x 26 x 20
2 x T3600178   Seal, 20 x 26 x 4
1 x T3350234   Locknut, Flanged, M12 x 1.25

Parts Totals :                              
1 x T2057502 ( Needle Bearing Kit, RSU )
4 x T3800199 ( Bearing, Needle Roller, FC 20 x 26 x 16 ) - "FC" = "Full Comlement"
1 x T3800060 ( Bearing, Needle Roller, 20 x 26 x 20 )
1 x T2057354 ( Sleeve, Linkage, Dia 20.0 x 30.5 )
2 x T2057399 ( Ground Sleeve, 90mm )
8 x T3600178 ( Seal, 20 x 26 x 4 )
3 x T3350234 ( Locknut, Flanged, M12 x 1.25 )

The Seals and Bearings are available from "Simply Bearings"
who remain open for business taking Web Orders 

I have used them before to buy front wheel seals, but not the RSU parts.
Their Customer Service department are excellent, so if you can't find
what you need on their Web Site, send them an email enquiry
explaining exactly what you need, and they will advise accordingly.

( e.g. they have several different types of Oil Seal lin the 20 x 26 x 4 size
and will be able to advise which are the most suitable for this application).

If, upon inspection, you find that any of the Ground Sleeves are in need of replacement,
try sending a Private Message to Member "1675" who may be able to help.

Cheers