Cruise control dropping out at times

[teef.au]

Hello everyone, it's been a while. (Work will do that to you)

Some searching didn't reveal much of a history about this, so I thought I'd kick off a topic.

If I get a weekend free, it's reasonably common for me to grab the Mrs and the Trophy and head off about 80klms to one of our favourite cafes for breakfast. the Trophy hasn't been ridden a lot of late, but sits on a battery tender in between times and overall seems to be going well. Apart from the headlight flicker, it has no known issues.

The journey consists of leaving my suburb, riding along mostly 80kph (50mph) speed roads, joining up with the motorway at 110kph (~70mph) for a few klms then exiting off on to 80kph then 100kph semi rural roads to complete the journey.

I use cruise control quite a bit because we have lots of covert cameras and speed enforcement with fairly small tolerances. Sometimes I get to use it a bit before I hit the motorway, depending on traffic. I will inevitably use it on the motorway then I exit off, through a few roundabouts on to an 80kph road. A couple of months ago, the last time I tried, when engaging the cruise control on this road, cruise would work for a few random seconds, then just abruptly cancel, seemingly for no reason. Later on when I got to the 100kph section I tried again, all was well and I forgot about it. On the journey home, the problem did not re-occur, even along the same stretch of road.

Today I wheeled it out and undertook the same journey, by now having completely forgotten about the previous one. I used cruise on the motorway no problem at all. I exited on that 80kph road, went through the roundabouts, got settled on to the road and engaged the cruise control, yawned and was just about to take a nap, when boom, the cruise cut out in pretty much the exact same place as last time. The same as last time also, I could not get it to re-engage along that stretch of road. After a while I gave up. Later on once again on the 100kph stretch, I engaged cruise once again and had no further issue. Also on the way home, I used cruise back through that same stretch of road, once again without incident.

The piece of road in question has some moderate hills. This morning I was in 6th gear pulling about 2600rpm. I thought perhaps I was too low in the rev range. I changed down to 5th and tried again but it still cut out after a couple of seconds. Once it even did it going down hill when barely any throttle application was required, so I don't think it's load related.

So far I have made no effort to do anything to the bike, I thought I would asked my learned friends first. As I say I have no other issue with the bike.

The worst part is it ruined my nap, it's Sunday here for goodness sake.

[HACKLE]

teef.au I have experienced a "similar" problem that you have. It didn't take me long to work out that if you have a reasonably firm grip on the throttle grip and hit any road irregularity, small bump, different bitumen height, etc. Then this "bump" can cause you hand to move forward on the grip. A bit like shutting off the throttle. The cruise control detects this as exactly that, and shuts off the cruise. I find that with my cruise set I make sure I have a "softer", less tight, grip on the throttle. I have used cruise for hundreds of kilometres whilst completing FarRides as well as IBA rides. this might not be the case with your cruise, I'm just saying it might be. Worth checking. Cheers. 

[teef.au]

Originally Posted by HACKLE

teef.au I have experienced a "similar" problem that you have. It didn't take me long to work out that if you have a reasonably firm grip on the throttle grip and hit any road irregularity, small bump, different bitumen height, etc. Then this "bump" can cause you hand to move forward on the grip.

Thanks Hackle, good thinking. Sorry I should have included that I thought about that. At one point I accelerated close to my desired speed. I let go of the throttle and just used my index finger to resume cruise. I then kept my hand completely away from the throttle altogether. (Mrs thinks I'm a clown riding along with one hand in the air) It accelerated, captured the set speed, held it for a few seconds, then abruptly cancelled again. So I don't "think" it's interaction with the throttle.

Sorry I should have included that piece of information.

Later on in a flat 100kph section, I also deliberately cancelled cruise by rolling the throttle forward. Whilst it doesn't take much, it does require a reasonably deliberate action. (Feels like the same force I had to use on my Tiger Ex). So I don't think it's hyper sensitive and vibration is causing it. Some other roads where it doesn't happen, are bumpier and have more hills.   

[HACKLE]

Cheers. As I said, worth checking.

[teef.au]

Originally Posted by HACKLE

Cheers. As I said, worth checking.

Spot on mate, awesome thoughts! 

[Coconut]

I'm sure you already know this, but for the sake of anyone else reading :

Cruise Control can only be activated in 4th, 5th or 6th Gear
and when travelling at a speed between 30 and 100 MPH ( 48 to 150 Km/h ).

In addition to the Throttle "Roll Off" switch, other likely causes
of the Cruise control disengaging are :

Rear Brake Pedal / Rear Brake Light switch : Check that you aren't inadvertently resting your foot
over the pedal ( "Riding" the pedal ), and check the position of the pedal for activating the
Brake Light - when the Brake Light comes on the Cruise control will de-activate.
( Not too difficult to adjust once you can get at it which may need removal of
the right Control Plate / Footrest Hanger ).

Front Brake / Front Brake Light switch : This will deactivate the Cruise Control when switched on,
and although it appears less likely to be due to "riding" the Brake, as you describe
riding without a hand on the grip, and the Switch activation position is not adjustable,
the switch might be faulty and activate momentarily, e.g. with bumps in the road.
At least one other Member has recently reported a faulty Front Brake switch.
Unfortunately it appears that this switch is not available to purchase separately, ( at least not
from Triumph ), and if faulty a complete new expensive Switch Cube may be needed,
if it can't be dismantled and repaired / cleaned etc .

Clutch Switch : Easy to overlook this one, ( Includng "riding" the Lever ),
but there is also a similar switch in the Clutch Lever housing,
which disengages the Cruise Control when switched, and could also be faulty as described above.

Testing of the Brake switches is easy enough in a garage as you can see the Brake Light
coming On and Off, but the Clutch Switch is not so easy to test unless you can access the wires
to it and have a multi-meter. 

Alternatively the after market DealerTool device has a function to test the operation
of these ( and other ) Switches, giving simple "On" and "Off" indications,
or in the case of the Clutch Switch - "Gripped" or "Released" !







Hope this helps you to find out what's going wrong !

Cheers   

[teef.au]

Originally Posted by Coconut

Hope this helps you to find out what's going wrong !

Thank you Sir!

A very thorough and thought provoking response. It doesn't "directly" explain why it's only happened twice and in the exact same location, but perhaps only Alien intervention or similar theories can explain that part!

Certainly it is behaving precisely like one of the switches is being activated. No hesitation, no other clues, it just instantaneously disengages.

I will indeed test these switches and report back. I do have easy access to a voltmeter and am comfortable doing these tests. I do not have DealerTool, so a couple of quick stupid questions if I may?

1) Is it OBD II?
2) Is that it handing around near the battery?
3) Is the OBD - USB cable I used to use on my 1050 Tiger the same one I will need here?

Standby!

[Coconut]

No worries !

Yes it's an OBD II "type" Cable, and the Trophy connection
is via a Cable normally sitting on top of the Main Battery.

I don't know whether the Cable you have for another Bike would work,
but if it's a "standard" OBD II, I doubt it very much, as I believe the Trophy
uses a specific "non standard" communication Protocol.

You'd also need the correct to communicate with the Trophy.

The Software provided with "DealerTool" is installed and used on a Windows based Computer.

If the problem is due to Alien, or similar intervention, 
then I don't think I, or even DealerTool, will be able to help !