28 Mar 23, 02:47 am

Recent Posts

1 ... 8 9 10
91
Lighting, Electrical, and Wiring / Re: Screen adjustment behaving weirdly
« Last post by trophied on Mar 22, 2023, 02.39 am »
 :046:
93
Lighting, Electrical, and Wiring / Re: Screen adjustment behaving weirdly
« Last post by KenJ888 on Mar 21, 2023, 10.20 pm »
Ok guys. Thanks for all the help with my screen problems. Good news is that it's fixed. It was a bad connection in the loom under the tank despite the live pins on the relays showing 13.54 volts. When I opened the tape the crimp connector was heavily coated in green corrosion as well as the wires. On my bike the connector was very close to the main loom and the fusebox. I snipped the wires close to the connector on both sides. On the fusebox side thereís 2 wires into the connector 1 small light wire and 1 thicker (probably from the fusebox - but i forgot to check for continuity before it was soldered) I trimmed the coating about 10mm, spliced them together and soldered them together. Then I took a 5 inch piece of new wire soldered the end and then joined it to the two wires from the fusebox and covered it with shrink wrap. The relay side is easier as thereís more space and there's 4 blue wires, 2 heavier wires and 2 lighter wires. The heavier wires were shiny copper colour when stripped back which was probably why the relays showed voltage. Both the lighter wires had green corrosion on them but 1 was particularly bad. (Iíll try and upload pics later when i work out how to) I made up a white vinegar and salt solution and dipped the 4 wires in it for 2 mins. Then into a solution of water and baking soda to kill the reaction. This brightened up the trimmed copper ends and then they soldered together. I dropped a piece of heat shrink over the end before connecting the new wire and sealing it. I reconnected the battery and switched on the ignition and the screen immediately carried out a full up and down movement. Then using the switch i moved it up to 3/4ís and switched off the ignition. After the normal 2-3 seconds it moved down to park. I then wrapped the loom and reconnected the connections. Job done. Hallelujah ✊

https://photos.triumph-trophy.com/image/22PdY

https://photos.triumph-trophy.com/image/22nVZ

https://photos.triumph-trophy.com/image/22Mod

https://photos.triumph-trophy.com/image/22Vv1

https://photos.triumph-trophy.com/image/22kHV

https://photos.triumph-trophy.com/image/22JzO



95
Iím not going to be able to go on our trip.
A dental issue that is going to be looked into after the infection is resolved on the 4th. 
Iím not in the best mood right about now.
I just came from the dentist.
I had a crown come off apparently due to a crack in the crown and under it wasnít good. 🤬

I want everyone going to make sure that you have a great time and post pictures as you go along!
 
96
*Originally Posted by mike5878 [+]
Pauli they withdrew the MOT fail rule re conversions from Halogen to LED very quickly after it was introduced, now it's the same as before. As long as they meet the settings they pass. I just ordered the bulbs you mentioned in your post after seeing your before and after pics, lovely job cheers. If I see you on the roads of Norn Irn I will give you a wave.

 :762:

Hi Mike.  Good job, glad I have helped.  I found them easy to fit without having to remove anything from the fairing.  Some people report difficulty replacing bulbs, and there are some who go in from underneath the fairing, and some from above.  I went in from above.  When you take out the original bulb, try and picture in your head whet you are doing.  The LED bulb will seat perfectly, the fiddliest bit is getting the tension spring back on.  Shine a torch down there with the bulb out and check what you have to do to get the spring back in place, it makes it easier when you are doing it "blind".  Also, remember to change out the middle running light to LED as well to complete the transformation!

Unfortunately I don't see a link for the switchback indicator kit on eBay any longer, someone else may be able to point you in the direction od a set of these.  Again, a doddle to fit, and make a big difference.
97
Covered in a previous Topic ....

On 22 March 2021, so 2 years ago tomorrow ! - MOT Special Notice 01-21 "Headlamp conversions"
was enacted, allowinged an LED Headlamp bulb conversion into a "Halogen" Light fitting,
providing, as stated below, thaty the Beam Pattern did not cause any undue dazzle etc,
but this only referred to motorcycles and as far as I know does not yet apply to other vehicles ( in the UK ).

Cheers  :821:

98
Pauli they withdrew the MOT fail rule re conversions from Halogen to LED very quickly after it was introduced, now it's the same as before. As long as they meet the settings they pass. I just ordered the bulbs you mentioned in your post after seeing your before and after pics, lovely job cheers. If I see you on the roads of Norn Irn I will give you a wave.

 :762:   
99
Hi Don

Thanks for the reply.

I think you may be right. I started the bike this morning and then after about a minute of idling blipped it up to about 7500rpm twice (with everything crossed as this is not something I would normally subject a cold engine to). The revs dropped back to idle perfectly and there was no abnormal sound from the engine.

Once the temperature gauge was showing four bars I turned the bike off and restarted it. This time the noise was back and when blipped to about 7500rpm the bike stalled again and you can hear the noise in the background.

Whatever is causing the noise and stalling only appears to do so once the engine has warmed up and I would assume something has expanded with temperature??

The noise definitely appears to be coming from the region of the left hand crankcase cover/starter motor so I am now beginning to wonder if it could be something to do with the sprag clutch.

I'm hoping to get her back together for the weekend and will try your suggestion then.

Cheers.
100
*Originally Posted by Bettysboy [+]
I'm halfway through carrying out the 20,000 mile service so firstly a massive thankyou to janfmiller for the guide that gave me the confidence to carry this out.

I had to re-shim five of the exhaust valves as they had tightened up and they are now set to the middle of the specified clearance. I've checked the camshaft timing - spot on and reassembled the top of the engine, fitted new fuel and air filters and reconnected the airbox and fuel tank.

I fired the bike up and she runs a treat, however, once the cooling fans had kicked in I revved the engine up to about 4000 - 5000 rpm. The engine returned to idle but sounded like it wanted to cut out so I then blipped it up to about 7000 rpm. This time the bike stalled. I restarted the engine - it fired up straight away but as the starter was turning the engine over I could hear a noise that sounded like a dry rubbing noise apparently coming from the left hand side of the engine. When the bike is revved up you can also hear the sound.

Today I started the bike from cold - no problems, however once warm the same thing happened again.

Has anybody else come across this please and if so did you manage to solve the problem.

thanks
Sometimes just doing the adaptions after working on the bike makes a big difference:

Start with the engine cold in the morning before being ridden that day and:
Start the engine and allow it to warm up until the fan for the radiator comes on.
Leave the engine idling for 15 minutes after the fan turns on.

Do NOT touch the throttle during any of the above.

Turn bike off. 

Then go for a test ride at any time after.

Takes a good 20 minutes or so, but very simple to do and it can make a big difference after working on the bike.

-Don-  Reno, NV
1 ... 8 9 10
tweedy-bunch