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Messages - RV8tor513

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*Originally Posted by Coconut [+]
Thanks for the Update !

It's great to hear that you are back on the road and everything is sorted.  :152:

Triumph should be applauded for putting this right after you were let down by the Dealer,
who will hopefully have learned some valuable lessons along the way !

Cheers  :821:



Yes, I think I also learn an important lesson as well, hopefully the Dealer's service department is up to the task in the future. But Yes, Triumph America earned big points in my book over the way this was taken care of. :152: two thumbs up!!!

Thanks for your knowledge on this model also Coconut! This forum is the best because of people like you!  :062:

Cheers,
jb

2
*Originally Posted by RV8tor513 [+]
Andy, Yes that was my thought as well but after inspecting the wire integrity from the switch to the connector I found more breaks in the insulation. This one is so close to the connector that I feel it best to replace the whole switch with new wiring and connector. I feel it is the best option at this point, even if I get no help from Triumph America with a replacement switch.

I just got off the phone with Chris at Triumph America so they are now aware of my problem. Now I wait and see what the Big Boys do.



Chris at Atlanta called and told me that he was passing the ball to Jesse, (thanks for that call Chris, I appreciate being kept in the loop.) So the Big boys at Triumph America stood Tall and got the job going. Thank you Chris and Jesse! :047:

So it has been a few weeks and I am happy :046: to report I have my Trophy back with new Keys, Ignition Switch, Tank Lock, Seat Lock installed. They sent me home with three new lock barrels for the bags and trunk.

I found Coconut's post with the dimensions to the pick and reference to the Tiger 800 thread on removing the lock barrels and made a tool out of 0.0935 inch or 2.36 mm music wire from my model airplane days. Once I got the pick to work in the new barrels I tried my hand and pick on the trunk and had the barrel in my hand quit easily. The next saddle bag lock offered no resistant's to my new found skill as a locksmith and my determination.
:023: However the 2 bag was a challenge, and put up some resistants' to being removed as the protector of the contents of that box. I had to Re-Do the end of the tool and make it a little longer so that it would have enough force to pull the 7th pin down and release the barrel. After I got it out, on closer examination I found dirt in the barrel that was helping to bind that pin and keep it from releasing all the way.

So even though I would have been happy with separate key for the bags and trunk I am back with a single key for the bike!!! :001:

Love my Trophy SE, just hope she doesn't find out I put money down to hold a new 2022 Triumph Speed Twin! I sold my Speedmaster over the weekend and the money was burning a hole in my pocket! :745:


3
*Originally Posted by digital [+]
I still do not know of any case that the part of the ignition key has been broken. So I am happy to see that it is a well made material.

I want to add that if you look at the five contact points where these five cables are welded, they are of quality and with good tin it welds very well and looks great.

So, my advice is not to replace the ignition ignition key and with five good quality cables and somewhat longer than those provided by an ignition switch, re-solder the cables to its five contacts.

If you are not good professionals in soldering cables, you always have the option of taking it to a television repair shop or electronics work.

They should also know how to do this work at a dealership or take it themselves to an electronics workshop.

More than anything, because if the ignition switch is changed you will have to replace the key cylinders of the fuel tank, TopCase, saddlebags and seat locks.
digital,
Yes, I understand the work involved with changing the ignition switch and keys etc. I think I can live with having a two key bike, one for the ignition and fuel cap and another for the luggage and seat, IMHO I think it is actually more convenient that way.

Today I soldered new wires onto the switch and put the bike back together and running again. Problem is the ignition switch has worn contacts inside of it and the key has to be wiggled to make contact and energize the electronics, that is still a big Safety issue in my book.

My phone call to Triumph America had the desired effect, the service manager at the dealership has emailed me twice today with updates to let me know what he is going to do and what I can expect in the coming weeks. I was told he will contact me again on Tuesday next week to let me know when I can get the bike back into the shop. I miss riding the Trophy.

Cheers. :001:

4
*Originally Posted by Spanish Andy [+]
It's shocking that your dealer actually invoiced Triumph for the kit !! I hope that Triumph (not the dealer) come through for you though. If you are going to fix it yourself you could just solder some new (longer) wires rather than replace the whole ignition ?

Andy, Yes that was my thought as well but after inspecting the wire integrity from the switch to the connector I found more breaks in the insulation. This one is so close to the connector that I feel it best to replace the whole switch with new wiring and connector. I feel it is the best option at this point, even if I get no help from Triumph America with a replacement switch.

I just got off the phone with Chris at Triumph America so they are now aware of my problem. Now I wait and see what the Big Boys do.


5
*Originally Posted by RV8tor513 [+]
It appears that this recall is still active, https://www.triumphmotorcycles.com/owners/recalls I found my Trophy on the recall list. My taillight, license plate light and brake light had stopped working. Traced the fault to the bottom of the ignition switch where the front brake line has damaged to connector at the bottom of the ignition switch when turning the handle bars to the right.
I took my Trophy to my nearest dealer (277 miles away) for this safety recall the first part of this month. I had noticed that my park light, horn, tail light and brake light were no longer working. I had narrowed this down to the ignition wiring and when researching how to access the ignition switch found the safety recall on this very problem. Long story short the dealer showed on the invoice: one rework wire kit, ignition lock. warranty;
and under the description had: Sb574 reroute lg.Switch Wiring. Also a test ride by the Technician. So I 'assumed' that all was corrected, like a fool  :172:
I did not double check this work before I loaded the bike on my trailer and headed back home. Five hours later I unloaded the bike and took a short ride. No horn!!! What the hick!!! Checked the tail light and park light and no joy there either. I called the dealer and talked to the service manager and he was not sure what was done and needed to talk to the tech and the service writer about this problem. He called me back and had egg on his face that the Safety Recall work was not done but charge to Triumph Motorcycles America. Here are the pictures of what I found after waiting all weekend and the last four days for a call back from the service manager.  :233:
He was suppose to be in contact with Triumph America to see what they could do for me. I'll call Triumph America tomorrow on my own and see what they have to say.

Does anyone have any experiance replacing the ignition switch. How does one remove the tamper proof fasteners that hold the switch to the upper yoke?

Thanks for the help,



6
It appears that this recall is still active, https://www.triumphmotorcycles.com/owners/recalls I found my Trophy on the recall list. My taillight, license plate light and brake light had stopped working. Traced the fault to the bottom of the ignition switch where the front brake line has damaged to connector at the bottom of the ignition switch when turning the handle bars to the right.

7
New Members / Re: Hello out there!
« on: April 23, 2016, 02:26:46 am »
*Originally Posted by SofaKing [+]
Hi RV8tor513,
 :400: to the forum.  I am located up in Spokane and have had my 2015 TTSE for about 6 weeks.  The more you ride yours, the more you will like it.  If you ever get up to Spokane, let me know.   :821:

Hi SofaKing,

Thanks for the Welcome. :002:

Yeah, it is defiantly a different ride than my 2000 TT 4cycl. :152:

I am liking the TTSE more each time I ride it for sure, went to check my P O Box this evening and when I headed home and got on the highway I gave it full throttle and just touched the rev limiter before shifting into 2nd & 3rd, then short shifted to 6th, :156:  whoa, that was fun!

I read a few reviews before I decided to purchase this one and reread one last night and had to agree with the reviewer, nothing bad to report. He was nitpicking the throttle feel, (feels a little lite) the linked brakes (a little different but you get use to it) and the quality of the switches, but that is about it. A lot less money than my brother's K1600 beemer and darn near as nice in all areas, beats his mpg by some too.  :169:  (maybe not the way I was flogging it tonight but ...)

I'm planning a trip up to Othello, some time soon, depends on my son's schedule. Also I have a brother that lives in Spokane, (not that far away from Othello), so I may be up your way sometime the next few months, that is the tentative plan anyway, when I have a date I'll let you know and maybe we could meet-up.  :821:

jb

8
New Members / Re: Hello out there!
« on: April 22, 2016, 11:35:33 pm »
Hi,

I have been getting a few miles on the Trophy this past week and I am really liking the cruise control!  :028:

I followed my brother yesterday morning taking video of his trailer being towed behind his K1600. When we got back to his place he said my left headlight wasn't working all the time. When we looked at it, the right side was bright but the left side looked like a parking light. I had no idea what this might be and did some searching on the forum but did not find anything like this in my search.

I charge the battery this morning while I was attending to other matters so I might have a fully charge battery to help find the problem. This afternoon with a fully charged battery I started to investigate the matter. With the engine started I checked the headlights and same thing, right side bright, left side dim and went out. It hadn't been healed over night or during this mornings battery charging. :008:

I decided to remove the bulb to see if it was faulty, after reading Coconut's directions about going in under the headlights I decided to try that. After removing the 2 lower fairing plates, I reached up I and felt the headlight socket and found it loose!  :187:

I pulled the connector away from the bulb which required very little effort and felt that back of the bulb, all felt right there so I pushed the connector back onto the bulb and made sure it had seated properly and Presto changeo, I now have both headlights working again!  :047:

Has anyone else encountered anything similar happen?

I'm thinking I'll keep the old girl, for awhile any way, raining this afternoon so more inside work for me.
 :821:


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