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Topics - Coconut

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1
Checking for play is easy enough - Put the Bike on the Centre stand,
get someone to sit on the Pillion seat to raise the front wheel off the ground,
then grab the bottom of the two fork tubes and rock them forwards and backwards
to see if you can feel any play - there should not be any.

Adjustment is described in the Service Manual - it will probably be worth getting one,
either from your Dealer, or checking the Forum Items For Sale section, or from eBay etc,
but note that the only Official version is the printed paper one, and the Forum Owners
don't allow the discussion of any non-official versions or copies on CD etc. due to Copyright.

Service Tool T3880620 is needed for the adjustment - available from Triumph Dealers and elsewhere.

To adjust the Headstock Bearings :

  • Slacken the Upper Yoke clamp bolts
    ( Ensure the Lower Yoke Clamps are tight to prevent the Forks from dropping )
  • SE Model : remove the two covers and disconnect the Fork Damping Motor
    wiring connectors from the top of the forks
  • Protect the large Headstock Upper Nut and surrounding parts against scratching
    by Taping them up etc, then remove the Nut
  • Lift the Handlebars and Top Yoke up off the Forks and Steering Stem -
    Have an assistant hold them or otherwise support them and ensure the Brake & Clutch Fluid
    Master Cylinders remain upright
  • Ensure the Steering Stem threads are free from grease
  • Remove the Lock Nut ( Using Service Tool T3880620 ) and Tab washer
  • Slacken the Adjuster Nut then tighten to 40Nm ( Using Service Tool T3880620 )
  • Slacken the Adjuster Nut then tighten to 15Nm ( Using Service Tool T3880620 )
    DO NOT Over tighten the Adjuster Nut
  • Fit the Tab washer and Locknut
  • Hold the Adjuster Nut in position to ensure it does not move,
    and tighten the Lock Nut to 40Nm ( Using Service Tool T3880620 )
  • Refit the Handlebars and Top Yoke assembly to the Forks
  • Refit and tighten the Headstock Upper Nut to 90Nm
  • Tighten the Upper Yoke Clamp Bolts to 25Nm
  • SE Model : Reconnect the Fork Damping Motor connectors and refit their covers
  • Re check for any play at the lower end of the forks as previously described

Cheers  :821:


2
Working on my Trophy recently I noticed the wires that go into the connector
of the Locking Solenoid for the Storage Box connector were frayed.
After a little "wobble" they detached completely :



Every time the Fairing is removed, the Storage Box needs to come out, and although
I usually unplug the wiring socket, the repetitiveness of doing so puts strain on the wires,
especially as the little catch that has to be depressed to release it is awkward to get at.



One solution is to remove the Solenoid completely and live with an "insecure" Storage Box.

There are just 2 Torx screws to remove from underneath the Storage Box,
and the Solenoid assembly slides out as shown in the above Photo's.

if anyone in the same situation wants to fix a similar problem,
you will need a replacement Plug connector, and two new contact pins.

I've identified these as the following parts :

Plug Housing ( Identical apart from being white not black ! ) :
TE Connectivity Part Number 174463-1
RS Components ( UK ) Part Number 362-8998 ( 2 way Multilock 070 1-row plug housing ). 1.22 inc vat

Contact Pins :
TE Connectivity Part Number 175027-6
RS Components ( UK ) 712-2188 ( Multilock 070 Contact 16AWG ) - Pack of 20. 3.26 +vat



New wires can then be crimped onto the new Contact Pins
which are inserted into the new Housing Plug, then the new wires
connected to the original Trophy harness wires. ( Soldering is best. )

I bought a few sets of these, so if anyone needs to do this repair just drop me
a Private message and I can send you a set for the price they cost plus postage.



3
Seemingly as a result of previously well documented instances of tight wiring to the Ignition Switch
( Subsequently subject of a Safety Recall ) some Members have had failures of the wiring to the
Immobiliser Transponder, which is encapsulated into the Ignition Switch Housing, requiring a
complete replacement of the Ignition Switch Assembly, which can be costly and result in
having different keys for the Ignition and the other locks on the Bike.

It IS possible, with care, to remove the Transponder Antenna housing and wiring,
and replace it, if a replacement can be located.
( Suggest asking Dealers for any left over Ignition Switches from the Safety Recall ).

Here's how :

The Ignition switch assembly must be removed from the Bike -
( Dealt with elsewhere in the Forum ).

This is where the Transponder Antenna is located :



The wiring loom from the Ignition Switch, which includes a sub loom for the Antenna,
connects to a socket underneath the left Loudspeaker.

This is the Plug from the Ignition Switch showing the two Pins of the two Antenna Wires,
which are of a  lighter gauge than the other Ignition Wires, and are coloured Brown, and White :



On my Trophy, using a ( non-calibrated ) Multi-Meter the Resistance between those two pins is 9.7 Ohms.
If there is either NO Continuity, or NO Resistance ( Short Circuit ) then this indicates
either a break in one or both wires, or a short circuit somewhere between them.

Remove the two small cross head screws from the bottom cover and remove the cover,
which may also be cable tied in position, to reveal the wiring.

This image shows the places where it is most likely for the Antenna wiring to have been damaged,
i.e. where any cable ties act upon them, and where they enter and exit the housing as shown:



Turn the Switch over and study the Keyhole area to locate
the two slots in the plastic shroud as shown :



Insert a fine flat bladed screwdriver or similar into these slots to release
the retaining tabs and gently persuade the shroud up and off the lock :
 




If required, the upper plastic part containing the Ignition Switch Position symbols
can be removed from the Shroud, by carefully depressing the internal tabs and withdrawing it :







Now we need to remove the two wiring Pins from the Multi-Plug.

Carefully cut away the existing cable sheathing
( It can be replaced and taped back over when refitting ).

A suitable tool is needed for depressing the locking tabs of the Pin Cover
and the Pins, to release them from the body of the Plug :



First remove the Orange Pin Cover - Use the tool to depress the Tabs
and a pair of tweezers or similar to pull on the pegs to remove it while they are depressed.
( An extra pair of hands would be useful here ! )



With the Pin Cover removed the Pins are revealed and their Locking Tabs can be accessed :



Insert the Tool between the edge of the Pin and the Plastic body.
It can help to pull on the Pin with a Pair of tweezers while inserting the tool
to create a little clearance for the tool to enter.

Once the Tool is inserted try pushing the Pin into the Plug body and out of the other side.
If it still feels solid, try the tool on the other side of the Pin, and be patient -
they can be stubborn to release !



Once released, fully withdraw them from the back of the Plug.



A new / replacement shroud with Transponder Antenna can then be refitted,
and the wiring Pins pushed back into the Plug until they "click" into place.



Try not to put any sharp turns on the wires where they enter and exit the base of the Ignition switch
and that when re-installed on the Bike they are not pulled tight when the handlebars are turned.

Cheers  :821:


 

4
I thought I'd spread the word on this Product that I recently discovered.

First off I DO NOT advocate the use of a Mobile Phone while Riding ( or Driving ).

Having said that, there are many Smartphone Apps that are useful to have
accessible while riding, including Sat Nav Apps etc, but I found a problem
where my iPhone screen ( with toughened glass Screen Protector fitted )
would not react to screen touches from my usual leather riding gloves.

I tried some allegedly "Touch Screen" Motorcycle gloves ( from China )
and they were about as much use as fitting an Ash Tray on a Ram Mount.  :191:

iPhone ( and similar Smart Phone ) screens have "capacative sensitivity" -
i.e. they react when the capacative nature of human skin is pressed upon them.
Leather gloves don't have the same properties so they just don't work on this sort of screen.

The answer I found is some very clever self adhesive material, marketed as "Glove Tacts"
that simply stick onto the fingertip of your glove - and they work !

After applying them as directed in the instructions, they should be left for 24 hours for
the adhesive to fully bond- the manufacturer then says they are then Machine washable !



Here's a Link to the Web Site :

GloveTacts Glove Touch Stickers V3 - 6 stickers package.

I got mine from Amazon ( UK ) for GBP 11.99 ( 6 Pack ).
You only need to use ONE, so that's just under GBP 2.00 with 5 Spares, in case they wear out !

You will also find various Reviews on You Tube etc -
Make sure you check for the latest Version 3 ( v3 ) Product.

As always, I have no connection or affiliation to the Seller / Manufacturer etc,
I'm just sharing my discovery of a new product.

Cheers  :821:


5
Ride Reports and Touring / Triumph SOS App for Smartphones !
« on: June 07, 2021, 10:49:37 am »
Triumph have released a Smartphone App : "Triumph SOS"  <-- Click for details !



Basically it is an Emergency Services ( E.S. ) Contact App, which will activate if the Smartphone
detects that an incident has occurred, interpreted as being one where E.S. may be required.
( i.e. a CRASH  :012: ).

Having undergone extensive testing to demonstrate a lack of False alerts,
the App is approved to contact the E.S. directly, and not via a Third-Party,
or other Contact, thus reducing the notification and response time.

The Smartphone will automatically dial the E.S. and provide GPS Location.
The E.S. operator will attempt to communicate with the Smartphone owner,
to provide an opportunity to cancel E.S. deployment, and / or provide further information.

This is a PAID Subscription service - in the U.K the cost is currently GBP 3.99 per month,
and is currently available to use in the UK, Europe, ROI, North America ( USD $4.99 per month ),
Australia and New Zealand.

The service can be used by ANYONE, however TRIUMPH Owners, get their first 3 MONTHS FREE !  :152:
( Validated by providing Triumph Motorcycle VIN Number ).

The App has a number of other useful features such as :
  • Worldwide Route Recording, Editing and Sharing
  • Full Screen Routes with Ride Stats
  • Export & Share .gpx Files
  • Explore, Discuss and Share Community Recorded Routes
  • Profile Management

Note : READ and comprehend the Terms & Conditions of use,
particularly all the "Disclaimer" information, before using !

Cheers  :821:



6
Having recently bought some new Pannier covers to replace the originals
( they were getting a bit scratched  :138: ) I needed to replace the "Union Flag" stickers I had on them.

The original stickers I used were a "domed resin" type,
the same type and size that Triumph used on the sides of the Fairing
of the previous Trophy Model, as well as on earlier
Triumph Daytona, Speed Triple, and Sprint Models.

They measure 28mm wide x 18mm tall :



The Triumph Part Number for these is T3900074 but they currently Retail at
around GBP 7.00 EACH which is quite expensive for what they are !

I found a Company that produce this type of sticker, but they had a
minimum order quantity, so I now have several spares available
that might be of interest to other Forum Members / Triumph Owners !

I will sell them in Pairs ( 2 x stickers ) for just GBP 4.00 a pair INCLUDING UK Postage. 
( Postage outside the UK would be at whatever the additional cost is ).

Send me a Private Message to enquire !

Here's some Photo's :









I also had these on my first Trophy SE :





This Photo shows where Triumph fitted them on the previous Trophy Model :



Cheers  :821:



7
The following Video has been produced to help explain some of the main Features & Functions
of the After Market DealerTool Device.

I recorded this with the device connected to my 2016 Triumph Trophy SE,
with a Cold engine, and NO Fault Codes ( DTC's ).

Please note : I am NOT ( and never have been ) a Triumph or DealerTool employee,
and have produced the Video and comments based on my own experiences of using it.

Disclaimer : The Video is posted here to help other Owners appreciate some of what the
device can do, and provide a few reference / base line figures of various Sensor Readings etc,
however the Device should only be used by a competent person, and at their own risk.


Notes :

The Trophy uses a "Ride by Wire" system, where the Throttle Twistgrip is not connected
directly to a set of carburettors,  but comprises a Potentiometer that sends Signals to the
Main ECM ( Engine Control Module ), which uses additional data from numerous other Sensors
including a Barometric Pressure Sensor, Ambient Air Temperature Sensor, Coolant Temperature Sensor,
O2 ( Lambda ) Sensor, MAP Sensor, Crank Position Sensor, Gear Position Sensor, Road Speed Sensor etc, to determine precise engine settings for the Fuel Injection and Ignition Timing.

You can see an effect of this in the video - where, despite applying Full throttle at the Twistgrip,
the ECM does not command the Throttle to fully open.
From rest, with a cold engine, immediately opening to Full Throttle would cause poor engine running,
so the throttle opening is reduced as determined by the ECU taking account all of its Sensor data.

DTC's : The Video states that DTC's can be displayed ( but not reset )
on the Trophy Instrument Panel without needing any other equipment.
This Topic explains how : Servicing Data, Reference Info. & DTC ( Fault ) Codes -
Scroll down to the Reply on March 11, 2015 "Diagnostic Trouble Codes ( DTC's ) / Fault Codes".

Cheers  :821:




8
"How To's" Technical Guides / HOW TO : Remove the Instrument Panel
« on: May 08, 2021, 12:26:01 pm »
Removing the Trophy Instrument Panel

To fit ( or remove ) the Triumph Sat Nav bracket and / or a wired Sat Nav system
attached to the Bracket, or access the Instrument Pack Connections, and other components,
the Instrument Panel needs to be removed.

Unless stated otherwise all Bolts have a 5mm Allen Key
type head, though I recommend the use of one of these :




  • Remove the Screen - Two Bolts for each of the Screen Arm Covers,to reveal a third central bolt. 
    Recover the white Nylon spacers from the central bolts.
    After removing the screen, recover the six rubber washers from the arms -
    which might be stuck to the inside face of the screen !

  • Remove the Battery Cover : A Single Bolt then lift upwards and rearwards
    to disengage the front pegs from their rubber grommets.
    Check the Grommets don't get dislodged or stay on the "Pegs".

  • If you are going to be working on any electrical circuits dosconnect the Battery.

  • Take measures to protect the Fairing Paintwork by placing a cloth
    over painted areas to prevent them getting scratched
  • Remove the Glove Box - One external Bolt, and One Internal bolt at the forward edge,
    then lift up and rearwards as for the Battery cover, checking those Grommets.



    Turn the handlebars fully left and squeeze the clutch lever to aid removal,
    then disconnect the Glove Box electrical connections :
    Peel off the Rubber Cover for the Accessory Power socket and pull the connector away,
    Depress the silver spring wire at the side of the USB Housing to release it,
    ( DON'T try to remove the Spring wire - you WILL drop it somewhere difficult to retrieve ! ),
    and pull the connector away from the housing.
    Rotate the connector for the Lock Solenoid so the latching  "barb" can be depressed
    with a small flat bladed screwdriver, and pull the plug out of the housing.
    NOTE : This MUST be reconnected when refitting the Glove Box,
    before screwing the Glove Box back in place and closing the Lid, otherwise you will not be able
    to ( easily ) open the Glove box to access the Internal securing screw !



  • Remove both Front Indicator units by folding each mirror out ( grasp the outer edge
    of the mirror and fold it out towards the side of the Fairing ).


     
    Disconnect the wiring connectors for each Indicator bulbholder by depressing the silver spring
    wire and pulling the connector away from the bulbholder ( similar to the USB Connector ).



    Remove the single large headed bolt securing each Indicator in place -
    Hold the Indicator in place when removing the bolt so the Indicator
    does not fall out and drop to the floor where it might be damaged !



    Carefully swing the outer edge of the Indicator Unit away from the bodywork, then move
    the Unit sideways away from the Headlamp to release the locating peg at its inner end.

  • With the Indicators removed a single bolt is revealed securing the painted panel
    below the mirror pods : 



    Remove that bolt and then carefully ease the panel towards the front of the bike,
    to release another of those pegs from a rubber grommet. 

    Note the various tabs around the edges of the Panel, and how they engage for later reassembly - Particularly the rearmost  flat tab that can be broken off if not properly engaged when refitting !

  • Next, the black lower Mirror surrounds need to be removed.

    There are 3 bolts, two on the lower side edge, and one that is now visible after removing
    the previous painted panel, that screws into the Mirror pod :



    After removal of the three bolts, the part can be carefully separated from the rubber protection piece,
    by pulling it way, taking care not to scratch the Fairing paintwork :



  • Inside each of the Mirror Pods there is a black plastic Cross Head screw that must be removed.
    These are just above where the large headed Indicator Unit bolts were removed from
    as in the Photo below ( Right side shown ) :



    Unscrew them carefully so as not to damage the screw head - they can be helped out by pushing from
    the other side of the Mirror Pod.  Recover the plastic expanding inserts that they are screwed into.

  • There are two further bolts to be removed - one on each side, within the Mirror Pods,
    but further towards the inside of the pod, that bolt back into the rear of the Instrument Panel.

    They are fiddly to access and undo - especially the one on the right,
    which is to the left of the Radio Antenna base. 

    The bolts can be removed with an Allen Key, but a small 5mm Hex bit
    in a ratcheting holder is much easier ! 

    These two bolts are 20mm long compared to the usual 16mm.

  • Looking at the lower edge of the Instrument Panel there are four bolts to be removed,
    two on each side - one below each Loudspeaker Grill, and one revealed when the lower
    Mirror surround was removed earlier :



  • From the front of the bike, next to the Screen arms, ( which do not need to be removed ),
    remove the four bolts noting that the Inner two bolts are "Patch Locked" with a "Loctite" type
    of compound.  Those two bolts screw into the Instrument Panel Fascia bracket.
    Triumph recommend that the two "Patch Locked" bolts are replaced whenever they are removed.



  • The instrument Panel can now be detached from the front Panel.
    Lay a cloth or towel etc. across the front of the handlebars for protection. 
    The lower edge of the Instrument Panel should be pulled slightly rearwards first,
    then the top edge can be lifted upwards to release it from its tabs around the Upper edge.
    Note that the lower outer edges of the panel will snag on the inside of the mirrors,
    which need to be manoeuvred to help clear them.

  • Note that if NO Sat Nav is fitted, a Blanking piece is released and needs to be recovered
    from the top centre of the Panel.  If a Sat Nav is fitted, take note of its cabling, and the
    Fascia trim piece that needs to be re-engaged with the panel when refitting.

  • You can now see the back of the Instrument Pack and the two electrical connectors
    covered by black rubber shrouds at each side of the Instrument Pack -
    Peel back the rubbers and check the connector housings are pushed fully home and latched,
    or. to disconnect them, depress the catches on the side of the connectors to free them -
    making sure (as with all connectors ) that you only pull on the plastic housings and NOT the wires !

  • Dare I say it - Refitting is a reversal of the above !



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