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Topics - Coconut

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Items for Sale / Set of Home Made Handlebar Risers / Spacers
« on: October 02, 2021, 06:24:36 pm »
I recently experimented with a set of Home Made Handlebar Risers / Spacers,
but found that there was not have enough slack in the Wiring and Brake Lines
around the Headstock for me to be comfortable with using them,
and I didn't want to strip all the Bodywork and Fuel Tank off
just to see if I could free up some extra slack, so I took them off again
and am offering them for sale here if anyone can use them .....

YOU must ENSURE that there is sufficient slack in the Cables and Brake Lines of your Trophy,
such that raising the Handlebars by 25mm does not cause any additional strain
to the wiring or Brake Lines etc which, in true Triumph Instructions style,
could result in a failure of electrical or braking circuits and a danger of death !

By fitting and using these home made an non-approved parts,
you accept full and total responsibility for doing so !

They are 6 individual pieces of 20mm diameter Aluminium bar,
drilled out to 8mm Diameter and machined to 25mm height.

I have sprayed them all with a coat of metallic silver paint,
quite a close match to the Handlebar colour, but slightly darker,
and with a slight blue tint.  When when fitted they are hardly visible.
( I managed to lightly scratch a few of them when fitting and removing them,
but the scratched areas can be positioned so they are not visible when fitted ! )

Also included are 6 x M8 x 1.25 x 45mm long Stainless Steel Cap Head Bolts ( 6mm Allen Key )
to replace the original 20mm bolts, which should be tightened to 26 NM.

15.00 to cover the cost of materials and also includes 3.20 for UK Economy Small Parcel Post.
Please send a Private Message if interested.  Unable to ship outside the UK at present.

Checking for play is easy enough - Put the Bike on the Centre stand,
get someone to sit on the Pillion seat to raise the front wheel off the ground,
then grab the bottom of the two fork tubes and rock them forwards and backwards
to see if you can feel any play - there should not be any.

Adjustment is described in the Service Manual - it will probably be worth getting one,
either from your Dealer, or checking the Forum Items For Sale section, or from eBay etc,
but note that the only Official version is the printed paper one, and the Forum Owners
don't allow the discussion of any non-official versions or copies on CD etc. due to Copyright.

Service Tool T3880620 is needed for the adjustment - available from Triumph Dealers and elsewhere.

To adjust the Headstock Bearings :

  • Slacken the Upper Yoke clamp bolts
    ( Ensure the Lower Yoke Clamps are tight to prevent the Forks from dropping )
  • SE Model : remove the two covers and disconnect the Fork Damping Motor
    wiring connectors from the top of the forks
  • Protect the large Headstock Upper Nut and surrounding parts against scratching
    by Taping them up etc, then remove the Nut
  • Lift the Handlebars and Top Yoke up off the Forks and Steering Stem -
    Have an assistant hold them or otherwise support them and ensure the Brake & Clutch Fluid
    Master Cylinders remain upright
  • Ensure the Steering Stem threads are free from grease
  • Remove the Lock Nut ( Using Service Tool T3880620 ) and Tab washer
  • Slacken the Adjuster Nut then tighten to 40Nm ( Using Service Tool T3880620 )
  • Slacken the Adjuster Nut then tighten to 15Nm ( Using Service Tool T3880620 )
    DO NOT Over tighten the Adjuster Nut
  • Fit the Tab washer and Locknut
  • Hold the Adjuster Nut in position to ensure it does not move,
    and tighten the Lock Nut to 40Nm ( Using Service Tool T3880620 )
  • Refit the Handlebars and Top Yoke assembly to the Forks
  • Refit and tighten the Headstock Upper Nut to 90Nm
  • Tighten the Upper Yoke Clamp Bolts to 25Nm
  • SE Model : Reconnect the Fork Damping Motor connectors and refit their covers
  • Re check for any play at the lower end of the forks as previously described

Cheers  :821:

Working on my Trophy recently I noticed the wires that go into the connector
of the Locking Solenoid for the Storage Box connector were frayed.
After a little "wobble" they detached completely :

Every time the Fairing is removed, the Storage Box needs to come out, and although
I usually unplug the wiring socket, the repetitiveness of doing so puts strain on the wires,
especially as the little catch that has to be depressed to release it is awkward to get at.

One solution is to remove the Solenoid completely and live with an "insecure" Storage Box.

There are just 2 Torx screws to remove from underneath the Storage Box,
and the Solenoid assembly slides out as shown in the above Photo's.

if anyone in the same situation wants to fix a similar problem,
you will need a replacement Plug connector, and two new contact pins.

I've identified these as the following parts :

Plug Housing ( Identical apart from being white not black ! ) :
TE Connectivity Part Number 174463-1
RS Components ( UK ) Part Number 362-8998 ( 2 way Multilock 070 1-row plug housing ). 1.22 inc vat

Contact Pins :
TE Connectivity Part Number 175027-6
RS Components ( UK ) 712-2188 ( Multilock 070 Contact 16AWG ) - Pack of 20. 3.26 +vat

New wires can then be crimped onto the new Contact Pins
which are inserted into the new Housing Plug, then the new wires
connected to the original Trophy harness wires. ( Soldering is best. )

I bought a few sets of these, so if anyone needs to do this repair just drop me
a Private message and I can send you a set for the price they cost plus postage.

Seemingly as a result of previously well documented instances of tight wiring to the Ignition Switch
( Subsequently subject of a Safety Recall ) some Members have had failures of the wiring to the
Immobiliser Transponder, which is encapsulated into the Ignition Switch Housing, requiring a
complete replacement of the Ignition Switch Assembly, which can be costly and result in
having different keys for the Ignition and the other locks on the Bike.

It IS possible, with care, to remove the Transponder Antenna housing and wiring,
and replace it, if a replacement can be located.
( Suggest asking Dealers for any left over Ignition Switches from the Safety Recall ).

Here's how :

The Ignition switch assembly must be removed from the Bike -
( Dealt with elsewhere in the Forum ).

This is where the Transponder Antenna is located :

The wiring loom from the Ignition Switch, which includes a sub loom for the Antenna,
connects to a socket underneath the left Loudspeaker.

This is the Plug from the Ignition Switch showing the two Pins of the two Antenna Wires,
which are of a  lighter gauge than the other Ignition Wires, and are coloured Brown, and White :

On my Trophy, using a ( non-calibrated ) Multi-Meter the Resistance between those two pins is 9.7 Ohms.
If there is either NO Continuity, or NO Resistance ( Short Circuit ) then this indicates
either a break in one or both wires, or a short circuit somewhere between them.

Remove the two small cross head screws from the bottom cover and remove the cover,
which may also be cable tied in position, to reveal the wiring.

This image shows the places where it is most likely for the Antenna wiring to have been damaged,
i.e. where any cable ties act upon them, and where they enter and exit the housing as shown:

Turn the Switch over and study the Keyhole area to locate
the two slots in the plastic shroud as shown :

Insert a fine flat bladed screwdriver or similar into these slots to release
the retaining tabs and gently persuade the shroud up and off the lock :

If required, the upper plastic part containing the Ignition Switch Position symbols
can be removed from the Shroud, by carefully depressing the internal tabs and withdrawing it :

Now we need to remove the two wiring Pins from the Multi-Plug.

Carefully cut away the existing cable sheathing
( It can be replaced and taped back over when refitting ).

A suitable tool is needed for depressing the locking tabs of the Pin Cover
and the Pins, to release them from the body of the Plug :

First remove the Orange Pin Cover - Use the tool to depress the Tabs
and a pair of tweezers or similar to pull on the pegs to remove it while they are depressed.
( An extra pair of hands would be useful here ! )

With the Pin Cover removed the Pins are revealed and their Locking Tabs can be accessed :

Insert the Tool between the edge of the Pin and the Plastic body.
It can help to pull on the Pin with a Pair of tweezers while inserting the tool
to create a little clearance for the tool to enter.

Once the Tool is inserted try pushing the Pin into the Plug body and out of the other side.
If it still feels solid, try the tool on the other side of the Pin, and be patient -
they can be stubborn to release !

Once released, fully withdraw them from the back of the Plug.

A new / replacement shroud with Transponder Antenna can then be refitted,
and the wiring Pins pushed back into the Plug until they "click" into place.

Try not to put any sharp turns on the wires where they enter and exit the base of the Ignition switch
and that when re-installed on the Bike they are not pulled tight when the handlebars are turned.

Cheers  :821:


I thought I'd spread the word on this Product that I recently discovered.

First off I DO NOT advocate the use of a Mobile Phone while Riding ( or Driving ).

Having said that, there are many Smartphone Apps that are useful to have
accessible while riding, including Sat Nav Apps etc, but I found a problem
where my iPhone screen ( with toughened glass Screen Protector fitted )
would not react to screen touches from my usual leather riding gloves.

I tried some allegedly "Touch Screen" Motorcycle gloves ( from China )
and they were about as much use as fitting an Ash Tray on a Ram Mount.  :191:

iPhone ( and similar Smart Phone ) screens have "capacative sensitivity" -
i.e. they react when the capacative nature of human skin is pressed upon them.
Leather gloves don't have the same properties so they just don't work on this sort of screen.

The answer I found is some very clever self adhesive material, marketed as "Glove Tacts"
that simply stick onto the fingertip of your glove - and they work !

After applying them as directed in the instructions, they should be left for 24 hours for
the adhesive to fully bond- the manufacturer then says they are then Machine washable !

Here's a Link to the Web Site :

GloveTacts Glove Touch Stickers V3 - 6 stickers package.

I got mine from Amazon ( UK ) for GBP 11.99 ( 6 Pack ).
You only need to use ONE, so that's just under GBP 2.00 with 5 Spares, in case they wear out !

You will also find various Reviews on You Tube etc -
Make sure you check for the latest Version 3 ( v3 ) Product.

As always, I have no connection or affiliation to the Seller / Manufacturer etc,
I'm just sharing my discovery of a new product.

Cheers  :821:

Ride Reports and Touring / Triumph SOS App for Smartphones !
« on: June 07, 2021, 10:49:37 am »
Triumph have released a Smartphone App : "Triumph SOS"  <-- Click for details !

Basically it is an Emergency Services ( E.S. ) Contact App, which will activate if the Smartphone
detects that an incident has occurred, interpreted as being one where E.S. may be required.
( i.e. a CRASH  :012: ).

Having undergone extensive testing to demonstrate a lack of False alerts,
the App is approved to contact the E.S. directly, and not via a Third-Party,
or other Contact, thus reducing the notification and response time.

The Smartphone will automatically dial the E.S. and provide GPS Location.
The E.S. operator will attempt to communicate with the Smartphone owner,
to provide an opportunity to cancel E.S. deployment, and / or provide further information.

This is a PAID Subscription service - in the U.K the cost is currently GBP 3.99 per month,
and is currently available to use in the UK, Europe, ROI, North America ( USD $4.99 per month ),
Australia and New Zealand.

The service can be used by ANYONE, however TRIUMPH Owners, get their first 3 MONTHS FREE !  :152:
( Validated by providing Triumph Motorcycle VIN Number ).

The App has a number of other useful features such as :
  • Worldwide Route Recording, Editing and Sharing
  • Full Screen Routes with Ride Stats
  • Export & Share .gpx Files
  • Explore, Discuss and Share Community Recorded Routes
  • Profile Management

Note : READ and comprehend the Terms & Conditions of use,
particularly all the "Disclaimer" information, before using !

Cheers  :821:

Having recently bought some new Pannier covers to replace the originals
( they were getting a bit scratched  :138: ) I needed to replace the "Union Flag" stickers I had on them.

The original stickers I used were a "domed resin" type,
the same type and size that Triumph used on the sides of the Fairing
of the previous Trophy Model, as well as on earlier
Triumph Daytona, Speed Triple, and Sprint Models.

They measure 28mm wide x 18mm tall :

The Triumph Part Number for these is T3900074 but they currently Retail at
around GBP 7.00 EACH which is quite expensive for what they are !

I found a Company that produce this type of sticker, but they had a
minimum order quantity, so I now have several spares available
that might be of interest to other Forum Members / Triumph Owners !

I will sell them in Pairs ( 2 x stickers ) for just GBP 4.00 a pair INCLUDING UK Postage. 
( Postage outside the UK would be at whatever the additional cost is ).

Send me a Private Message to enquire !

Here's some Photo's :

I also had these on my first Trophy SE :

This Photo shows where Triumph fitted them on the previous Trophy Model :

Cheers  :821:

The following Video has been produced to help explain some of the main Features & Functions
of the After Market DealerTool Device.

I recorded this with the device connected to my 2016 Triumph Trophy SE,
with a Cold engine, and NO Fault Codes ( DTC's ).

Please note : I am NOT ( and never have been ) a Triumph or DealerTool employee,
and have produced the Video and comments based on my own experiences of using it.

Disclaimer : The Video is posted here to help other Owners appreciate some of what the
device can do, and provide a few reference / base line figures of various Sensor Readings etc,
however the Device should only be used by a competent person, and at their own risk.

Notes :

The Trophy uses a "Ride by Wire" system, where the Throttle Twistgrip is not connected
directly to a set of carburettors,  but comprises a Potentiometer that sends Signals to the
Main ECM ( Engine Control Module ), which uses additional data from numerous other Sensors
including a Barometric Pressure Sensor, Ambient Air Temperature Sensor, Coolant Temperature Sensor,
O2 ( Lambda ) Sensor, MAP Sensor, Crank Position Sensor, Gear Position Sensor, Road Speed Sensor etc, to determine precise engine settings for the Fuel Injection and Ignition Timing.

You can see an effect of this in the video - where, despite applying Full throttle at the Twistgrip,
the ECM does not command the Throttle to fully open.
From rest, with a cold engine, immediately opening to Full Throttle would cause poor engine running,
so the throttle opening is reduced as determined by the ECU taking account all of its Sensor data.

DTC's : The Video states that DTC's can be displayed ( but not reset )
on the Trophy Instrument Panel without needing any other equipment.
This Topic explains how : Servicing Data, Reference Info. & DTC ( Fault ) Codes -
Scroll down to the Reply on March 11, 2015 "Diagnostic Trouble Codes ( DTC's ) / Fault Codes".

Cheers  :821:

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