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Topics - Coconut

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Items for Sale / Garmin 595LM SAt Nav AND Trophy Sat Nav Bracket !
« on: February 10, 2021, 03:12:09 pm »
Garmin Zumo 595 LM with Trophy Power Connector + Trophy Sat Nav Bracket

This is my Garmin Zumo 595 LM ( Lifetime Maps )
Sat Nav complete kit, comprising the following :

  • Garmin Zumo 595 LM with latest UK & Europe Maps installed
    ( Full coverage of Europe 2021.10 )
    Information, Specifications, and User Manual available from Garmin here :
    Garmin 595 LM - Full Europe Maps.

    Future Map updates are included for the Lifetime of the device at no additional cost,
    using the "Garmin Express" Windows software available from Garmin.

    NOTE : There is a tiny mark on the lower left of the screen -
    which is hardly noticable and does not affect its use.
    The device has been reset to Factory specifications and all personal data removed.

    Included is :
  • Garmin 595 LM
  • Battery AND a Spare Battery
  • NEW unused Mounting Cradle Kit ( A9828032 ),
    including Screws and Finisher, FITTED with Triumph Trophy
    Accessory Power Connector to plug straight in to the NAV Socket.
  • Front Weatherproof Cover for Cradle
  • Powered Car Windscreen Cradle Mount ( With built in Loudspeaker )
  • USB Data / Charging Cable
  • Selection of RAM Mounts ( not needed if Trophy CNC Bracket is used )
  • Original Instruction Booklet and Leaflets
  • Original Box and Despatch note

RRP of a new Garmin 595LM is currently 549.99 from Garmin.
RRP of a GPS Power Cable ( A9930122 ) is 9.35 from World of Triumph
RRP of the CNC machined GPS Mounting Bracket ( A9828032 ) is 46.64 from World of Triumph.

TOTAL RRP = 605.98 when new !

Offered For sale at just 270.00 plus UK Delivery Costs for the complete kit,
OR - Without the CNC Machined Sat Nav Bracket - 235.00 plus UK Postage.

Local Collection ( Birmingham ) or Local Delivery ( West Midlands ) may be possible.

FITTING may be possible at a mutually convenient time,
but obviously subject to COVID restrictions !

Please send a Private Message for any further details or to enquire.

NOTE : Also advertised elsewhere so may be withdrawn from sale here at any time !

Lighting, Electrical, and Wiring / Rear Lighting
« on: December 25, 2020, 09:16:28 am »
You may have seen my original "How To" article for adding a pair of LED Stalk Lights
to the rear of my Trophy ...... HOW TO : Add rear LED Stalk Lights

I've now added two more Modifications to the rear lights.

The first is a simple swap out of the stock Tungsten Filament Indicator Bulbs,
for a pair of LED Bulbs that are MUCH brighter. 

I bought a set from eBay that cost GBP 13.95 for the pair including UK Postage,
and are "CANBUS Compatible" needing no additional Resistors etc,
and which could also be used for the front Indicators, which take the same Bulb type  :

Next, I re-jigged the wiring to the additional Brake Lights of the Stalk Lights,
and fitted a HealTech Brake Light Pro Programmable Modulator, ( GBP 39.99 )
so that the Stalk Lights operated independently of the Trophy "Main" Brake light.

Here's a video showing the original modification,
with the stock Indicator bulbs, and no Brake Light Modulation.

Notice the slight delay between the Stock Indicator bulbs and the LED Stalk lights,
due to the Tungsten Filament bulbs having to "Heat up",
compared to the LED's that don't ! ....

Now here's a Video showing the latest modification, with LED Indicators,
and the Brake Light Modulator fitted ( Set to "Program 11" ! ) :

Cheers  :821:

I took my rear wheel off recently for cleaning.

One of the Studs was corroded onto the Wheel Nut,
and the Stud unscrewed from the Final Drive Unit !

It was easy enough to remove the Stud from the Nut -
a little WD40, gripped the plain section in a vice, then unscrewed it.

I have since re-fitted it to the Final Drive Unit
after applying some Hylogrip HY2170 Thread Locking compound
to the end that screws into the Final Drive Unit.

While the Stud was out, having recalled that another Member had
difficulty finding replacements, after he found SHEARED Studs on his Trophy,
I took the opportunity to measure them - as in the below Image.

I haven't yet found anyone that supplies these Studs.
( Please let me know if YOU do ! ).

Hopefully the measurements will help anyone that needs to have some made.

Cheers  :821:

It's that time of year for regular maintenance and cleaning,
so I decided to pull the Left Control Plate ( Footrest Hanger ),
in order to remove the Gear Change Pedal Pivot Bolt and replace it
with a modified bolt, as discussed elsewhere in the Forum.

First remove the Plastic Heel Guard ( 2 x 5mm Button Head Allen bolts ),
to reveal the Lower Rear Subframe Bolt.
Remove the bolt using a 14mm Socket and a 14mm spanner to hold the nut.

Next, remove the Sidestand bolt next to the Footrest ( 8mm Allen key ). 
There's no need to fully remove the Sidestand.

This leaves the three T40 Torx bolts.
These bolts have Thread Locking compound applied to them,
and although they had been removed previously,
what remained of the compound was still doing a good job !

The lower T40 Torx bolt decided to stay where it was,
and due to a combination of the Thread Locking compound,
the Bolt Head and my T40 Bit being slightly worn, not to mention
a little ham-fistedness, I managed to "bugger it up" !  :138:

After a lot of head scratching and consulting fellow Member and engineering Guru "1675",
I carefully used a 4.8mm drill bit to drill the hole within the Bolt about 5mm deeper.
( A 4.8mm drill clears the exisiting "teeth" of the Torx bolt so as not to damage them further ).

I bought some T40 Torx Impact Bits and using a Manual Impact Driver
hammered one of the Bits into the Bolt head.   
The extra 5mm depth of hole and the hardened steel of the
Impact Bit alllowed the Bit to be forced further into the bolt
sufficiently enough to grip and be unscrewed - Phew !

If that hadn't worked the next step would have been to use a 10mm diameter drill bit
( being the size of the plain section of the bolt that fits through the Control Plate
and locates into the Frame ),  to carefully drill the head off the bolt and allow the Control Plate
to slide over it and be removed, and then use Mole Grips on the remaining protruding stud.

After removing that troublesome bolt, plus the other two T40 Torx bolts,
and freeing the Power Socket mounting plate from the two rubber grommets,
the Control Plate could be removed.

A new bolt ( T2020609 ) was purchased to replace the damaged one,
but before using it the Thread Locking compound was cleaned from it,
and also from the other two Torx bolts, using a wire brush.

The original Gear Pedal Bolt was removed, and I also took the opportunity
to change the Seals on the Gear Lever Linkage Ball Joints,
cleaning and greasing them before fitting the new modified pivot bolt.

Finally, before refitting the Side Control Plate, I ran an M8 x 1.25 Tap in and out
of the mounting holes in the frame a few times, including the Gear Pedal Pivot bolt
hole which is the same thread, to remove the last traces of Thread Locking Compound.

I applied a light smear of Copper Grease to the Torx and Gear Pedal bolts.

Position the Side Control Plate and fit the Torx bolts but don't tighten
them at this stage which will make it easier to line up the mounting hole
for the Lower Rear Subframe Bolt. 

Once the Subframe bolt has been fitted, but not yet tightened,
fit the Footrest bolt, but again don't fully tighten it yet.

Ensure the Control plate is positioned correctly against the frame mounting points, and the
10mm shoulder of the bolts are sitting inside the holes of the Control Plate, tighten the Torx bolts. 
( The Service Manual says to tighten them to 25Nm )
Tighten the Rear Subframe bolt to 60Nm and the Sidestand bolt to 45Nm.

The process is similar for the Right Control Plate, giving access to the Rear
Brake Pedal Pivot bolt, but without the Sidestand and Rear Subframe bolts to contend with.

As the Thread Locking compound has been removed,
I will be regularly checking the Torx bolts to ensure they are still tight.

I have absolutely NO connection with the Seller,
but I spotted a Standard Trophy being broken for Spares on eBay ( UK ),
which I thought might be useful to some of our Members.

Please check the desriptions and Photographs carefully for damage / marks etc.
and direct any questions about the specific parts to the Seller ( not me ) !

Various parts are For Sale, including :

  • Front Mudguard
  • Front Mudguard Painted Panel ( Lunar Silver)
  • Front Wheel
  • Front Brake Calipers ( Pair )
  • Front Discs ( Pair )
  • Front Forks ( Pair ) inc. Upper and Lower Yokes
  • Headlamp
  • Left Indicator
  • Screen Sub Frame
  • Screen Adjustment Mechanism
  • Screen Supports, Arms and Covers
  • Standard Screen
  • Instrument Pack
  • CNC machined Sat Nav Bracket + Non Standard device holder
  • Left Handlebar Screen & Heated Grips Switch Cube
  • Left Handlebar Switch Cube
  • Right Handlebar Engine Run / Stop Switch
  • Handlebars ( Pair )
  • Heated Grips
  • Clutch Master Cylinder & Lever
  • Front Brake Master Cylinder & Lever
  • Mirrors ( Pair )
  • Fuel Tank Cover Panel
  • Gear Change Pedal inc. Linkages
  • Rear Brake Master Cylinder
  • Side Stand inc. Switch
  • Centre Stand
  • Standard Rider Seat
  • Right Rider Footrest Hanger Plate & Footrest
  • Left Rider Footrest Hanger Plate & Footrest
  • Left Pillion Footrest Hanger Plate & Footrest
  • Rear Brake Disc
  • Rear Brake Caliper
  • Pannier Mounting Rails and Link Bar
  • Rear Grab Rail
  • Sliding Carriage Rack
  • Rear Mudguard Tip inc. extender & Reflectors
  • Rear Light Unit
  • Rear Suspension Unit ( Manual )
  • Rear Suspension Unit Drag Link
  • Swing Arm
  • Driveshaft
  • Final Drive / Bevel Box
  • Rear Subframe
  • Radiator
  • Air Box
  • ABS Pump
  • Fuel Pump
  • Throttle Bodies
  • Wiring Harness
  • Main ECU, Immobiliser ECU & Ignition Lock inc. 1 Key
  • Engine ( 30,705 miles )

Link to eBay Listings - Check to see if Items are still available :
eBay Triumph Trophy Items For Sale by james_sherlock

Cheers  :821:

Accessories and Products / Triumph Accessory Installation Instructions
« on: October 13, 2020, 12:29:44 pm »
Here's a List of Installation Instructions for various Triumph accessories,
with Links to Download them from Triumph's Web Site,
and where known - a few corrections to errors within them !

( Feel free to "PM" me if you know of any more errors
or even missing Instructions, and I will add them ).

Accessory ( Click for Instructions )Part Number/Notes
Alarm System ( Datatool S4)A9808012Plug In version. See also Version A9808015
Alarm System ( Datatool S4)A9808015Hard Wired Version. See also Version A9808012
Auxiliary Power SocketA9828005
Front Mudguard ExtensionA9708258
GPS Accessory ConnectorA9938122
Heated Grips Kit (with Shorting Link)A9638088Includes Version A9638094 ( No Shorting Link )
Heated Seats KitA9708259Includes Versions A9708276 & A9708260
Paint Protection FilmA9930245
Sat Nav BracketA9828009Includes U.S. Version A9828011
Sliding Carriage for Top BoxA9508161Includes A9508156 Top Box Lid assembly
Tank BagA9510095
Top Box Backrest PadA9500506
TPMS SensorsA9640057Includes A9640056, A9640168 A9640169 and others.

Errors & Omissions :

A9808012 Alarm System ( Datatool S4 Plug In Version )
No errors reported.

A9808015 Alarm System ( Datatool S4 Hard Wire Version )
No errors reported.

A9828005 Auxiliary Power Socket
No errors reported.

A9708258 Front Mudguard Extension
No errors reported.
Note that the Adhesive Pad is NOT used on the Trophy.

A9938122 GPS Accessory Connector
The instructions state that this Connector is for both the Trophy Standard and SE Models.
Only the SE Model has the matching Socket that the Plug connects into,
which is part of the Audio System Circuit, that the Standard Model is not equipped with.
( With thanks to Member "RedMerle" for the information ).

A9638088 Heated Grips Kit
No errors reported.

A9708259 Heated Seats Kit
The Line drawing of the Pillion Heated Seat Sub Harness is WRONG.
It does not show the Socket into which the Heated Rider Seat Harness would be connected.
This is a correct drawing :

A9930245 Paint Protection Film
No errors reported.

A9828009 Sat Nav Bracket
No errors reported.

A9828011 Sat Nav Bracket ( U.S. Version )
No errors reported.

A9508161 Sliding Carriage for Top Box
Page 10 gives incorrect information for the SE Model Fusebox.
The Top Box Power Socket IS protected by Fuse No.6 ( 15A )
of the Rear Fusebox, but this Fuse does NOT protect the Heated Grips.
The Fuse additionally protects the Side Lights, Brake Lights and Horn.

A9510095 Tank Bag
No errors reported.

A9500506 Top Box Backrest Pad
No errors reported.

Anyone wishing to carry out their own Servicing and Maintenance of their Trophy
will realise that some tasks such as Bleeding the ABS Hydraulic system,
adjusting Throttle Body balance etc can only be achieved using Diagnostic equipment
and associated software connected to the Trophy OBD Diagnostics Port.

Other than official Dealer equipment, there are three main options :

DealerTool Costing GBP 59.99 + Postage,
which is an OBD Interface cable and Windows Software package.

TigerTool Service Utility Software is FREE Software that will work with the DealerTool Interface cable, and other cables.

Tune ECU - I know very little about this product / Software other than that it may have the ability
to upload ECU "Tunes" that cannot be accomplished with DealerTool or TigerTool.
I have not investigated this product further which is not included in this Topic for comparison,
though I have duplicated this warning from the supplier :
"If this software is not correctly applied, the engine can be destroyed." !

DealerTool can be used to accomplish quite a long list of checks, tests and diagnostics,
including the reading and resetting of Fault Codes ( "DTC's" ), balancing of throttle bodies,
running the ABS brake bleed routine, checking sensor voltages, and switch operations,
activating or deactivating the instrument panel heated grip and heated seat Icons,
activating or deactivating the TPMS system, resetting the screen limit points and
many more features, but cannot ( currently ) be used to program in New TPMS sensors.

It should be noted that some Members have had problems trying to configure Windows 10
to use the correct Drivers for the supplied OBD Interface cable.  The vendors of DealerTool
have been seen to be very helpful in sorting such issues out, and the software IS advertised
as being suitable for use with Windows 10.  ( Though I use mine on a Windows 8.1 laptop ). 

TigerTool Service Utility Software, coupled with a suitable OBD Interface,
can perform a limited number of the above Functions and Tests,
but it CAN also be used to program in New TPMS Sensors.  :169:

The attached document lists the available Functions for DealerTool and TigerTool
so that a comparison can be made, and help decide what, if anything to purchase.
( NOTE : Edited to Version 2 including a few amendments ).

For me, the DealerTool only has to be used once for something that would otherwise incur
a charge for a Triumph Dealer to perform, and together with the free TigerTool software
provides a very comprehensive package, and I think it makes sense that if you have to purchase
an OBD Interface cable, to go with the DealerTool package, as the additional functionality
more than compensates for the additional cost.

Cheers  :821:

First of all - try other methods described within the Forum,
which mainly involve the use of a "Pick" type tool inserted into the Keyhole of the Lock
to try and engage with an elusive "Locking Wafer" buried at the deepest part of the Barrel !

It is this Locking Wafer that holds the Barrel inside the Cylinder.

It IS possible to remove the Barrel using the "Pick" method - I've done it myself,
but sometimes the Locking wafer just doesn't want to play !  :157:

A professional Locksmith may have more luck with one of their Picks,
than trying to make one yourself !

If the Barrel just won't come out, another method ( and the one used by Triumph Dealers )
is to DRILL the Lock Barrel out.  This is quite a brutal solution, and will often result in damage
being caused to the Cylinder in which the Barrel is located.
This will then require replacement of the complete Top Box Carcass !

If all else has failed, and you want to get the Lock Barrel out, the following method WILL work,
but will take an hour or two, and needs some attention to detail. :084:

As with any advice I offer in this Forum - Use it at your own risk !

The first hurdle to overcome is to separate the two halves of the Top Box Base.

Fortunately this task has already been described, complete with Video, in another Topic here :

Top Box separating inner case from outer ......

Basic instructions :

Remove coloured Lid ( 5 x "T20 Torx" screws, noting the lower central screw
has both a washer  and a rubber washer fitted ). Put the lid somewhere safe.

Remove the 4 nuts ( 8mm socket or spanner ) from the hinges, along with
the two strengthening plates, and remove the lid.  Put the Lid somewhere safe.

Remove the 7 x T20 Torx screws around the upper edge of the Top Box Base,
and the further 7 x T20 Torx screws from the bottom of the Base.
( All the screws are the same length so don't worry about mixing them up ! ).

There is no need to remove the plate from the underside of the Base which covers
the electrical connection and it's Locking Lever, or any of the screws from the underside.

Next is, in my view, the difficult part of heating the Base up to soften the glue
holding the two halves together.  Take your time and be careful - if you are too forceful you
can end up bending or breaking some of the plastic tabs around the inner edges that help hold
the two haves together when assembled, but I still found that a LOT of force was needed
to pull the two halves apart, after quiet a lot of heating with a Heat gun.
Be prepared for painful trapped fingers as you try to pry them apart !

Once separated, unplug the wires from the Accessory Socket and put that half to one side.  :028:

Now we can start to access the lock. 
I suggest and recommend taking lots of Photo's as you work,
so you can refer back to them if you forget how something fits etc !

Have the Key in the Lock, release the handle and lift it up to the horizontal position.

This Photo shows the panel in which the Lock is fitted, and which can be partially removed :

Remove these 5 screws ( Sorry I missed one off the Photo !  :138: ) :

The Panel can now be eased away carefully, over the raised handle,
and tilted so that the back of the lock area can be accessed.
( The Panel can't be completely removed without further dismantling,
and it is not necessary to do so ).

Study the back of the Lock carefully to see the components, and where they fit / locate.
The silver "Cam Plate" rotates when the key is turned, and at the fully unlocked position,
( where the Handle would be released ) it comes into contact with the raised end of a spring, which
helps it to return from the "Handle Release" position to the Unlocked position when the Key is released.
A Ball bearing under spring pressure acts upon the underside of part of the Cam Plate
to act as a Detent for the different Key Positions :

Carefully remove the Allen bolt from the centre of the Cam Plate.
Mine was quite tight - try to avoid straining the components by holding
( or have an assistant hold ) the Cam Plate with Pliers to stop it from turning.
As the Bolt is undone the Cam Plate will rise up from the spring pressure
on the Detent Ball Bearing - recover the Ball Bearing as it is freed ( a Magnet is useful )
and also recover the spring underneath it.

Put the Bolt and its washer to one side, and study the now exposed brass part ( "Brass Dog" ),
that the Bolt had been screwed into.  Note its position and that one corner of the
square shape is missing - to ensure correct fitting onto the Cam Plate upon re-assembly :

With the Key still in the lock - note the position of the Key hole relative to its position in its housing.

The complete lock Cylinder with Barrel can now be pushed / withdrawn outwards,
and removed from the Top Box.  Again - note the shape and how it fits back into the Top Box.

Examining the Lock Barrel & Cylinder assembly you can now see that  :172: Locking Wafer !

Depress the Locking Wafer with the tip of a screwdriver, and you can then withdraw the Barrel.
Note that the "Brass Dog" is a separate part - don't remove it from the Cylinder,
and ensure that after separation from the Lock Barrel, it is not rotated in the Cylinder,
otherwise it will not line up with the Cam Plate when re-assembled.  :138:

Take the NEW Lock Barrel - with Key inserted, and start to push it into the Cylinder,
in the same orientation as the Barrel you just removed.  As the Barrel begins to enter
the Cylinder, the Locking Wafer will snag against the wall of the Cylinder,
and will need to be depressed with a thin screwdriver or similar tool. 

Push the Barrel all the way in, ensuring it lines up and engages with the Brass Dog -
Push the Barrel in until it Clicks into place and the Locking Wafer can be seen
to be holding it in place.  Check that you can turn the key and that the lock Barrel moves
in the Cylinder as you would expect. Use the Key to return the lock to the Unlocked position.

Reassemble the Cam Plate : Put the Detent Ball Bearing spring in its tube,
and sandwich the ball bearing between the spring and the Cam Plate.
( This is fiddly and there's a risk of dropping and losing the Ball Bearing -
If you can support the assembly horizontally the Ball Bearing will sit on top of the Spring
allowing you to carefully place the Cam Plate over it and press it down onto the end of the Brass Dog,
lining up that cut away corner shape.  Holding the Cam Plate down in position,
ensuring the Ball Bearing under spring pressure doesn't escape, refit the Allen Bolt ( with washer )
and tighten - again holding the Cam Plate with Pliers or similar to prevent straining the components.

Once the Cam Plate has been refitted, use the Key to check for correct operation,
and then return the lock to the Unlocked position.

The Lock panel assembly now needs to be fitted back to the Top Box.

The Peg protruding from the Cam Plate has to be engaged with the curved slot in the Locking Bar
shown in this Photo :

The Locking Bar will probably have fallen down too low for the Cam Plate to engage -
Note that the Locking Bar moves when the Handle is moved, and that you can also raise
the Locking Bar just by lifting it up with your fingers. ( It will actually lift all the way out ! ).

Once the Cam Plate Peg has engaged with the Locking Bar slot, the complete panel
can be positioned over the Handle, and the securing screws replaced.

With the five Lock Panel screws refitted, check again that the Lock works as it should.

Before reassembling the Top Box base inner and outer halves, clean out all the old glue
from the grooves and ridges using a suitable tool, and decide whether you are going to
use fresh glue ( I didn't re-glue mine ).

Secure the two Base halves with the 14 Torx screws, refit the lid with strengthening plates
and the four nuts, then refit the coloured lid with the 5 Torx screws making sure
the one with the washer and rubber washer goes back into the lower central hole.

Go and have a well deserved cup of Tea, or better still .....  :030:

I haven't tried this method on a Pannier ( yet ) but I suspect that the process will be similar,
where the two halves will be glued together and need heat to be applied to pull them apart
once the screws have been removed.

I also suspect that the complete cylinder cannot be removed from a Pannier,
as I believe the Cylinder is part of the carcass moulding,  and that the Locking wafer
will be accessible directly once the Cam Plate has been removed.

As and when I try this, I will update this Topic accordingly !

Cheers  :821:

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