Ok guys. Thanks for all the help with my screen problems. Good news is that it's fixed. It was a bad connection in the loom under the tank despite the live pins on the relays showing 13.54 volts. When I opened the tape the crimp connector was heavily coated in green corrosion as well as the wires. On my bike the connector was very close to the main loom and the fusebox. I snipped the wires close to the connector on both sides. On the fusebox side there’s 2 wires into the connector 1 small light wire and 1 thicker (probably from the fusebox - but i forgot to check for continuity before it was soldered) I trimmed the coating about 10mm, spliced them together and soldered them together. Then I took a 5 inch piece of new wire soldered the end and then joined it to the two wires from the fusebox and covered it with shrink wrap. The relay side is easier as there’s more space and there's 4 blue wires, 2 heavier wires and 2 lighter wires. The heavier wires were shiny copper colour when stripped back which was probably why the relays showed voltage. Both the lighter wires had green corrosion on them but 1 was particularly bad. (I’ll try and upload pics later when i work out how to) I made up a white vinegar and salt solution and dipped the 4 wires in it for 2 mins. Then into a solution of water and baking soda to kill the reaction. This brightened up the trimmed copper ends and then they soldered together. I dropped a piece of heat shrink over the end before connecting the new wire and sealing it. I reconnected the battery and switched on the ignition and the screen immediately carried out a full up and down movement. Then using the switch i moved it up to 3/4’s and switched off the ignition. After the normal 2-3 seconds it moved down to park. I then wrapped the loom and reconnected the connections. Job done. Hallelujah ✊

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I’m not going to be able to go on our trip.
A dental issue that is going to be looked into after the infection is resolved on the 4th. 
I’m not in the best mood right about now.
I just came from the dentist.
I had a crown come off apparently due to a crack in the crown and under it wasn’t good. 🤬

I want everyone going to make sure that you have a great time and post pictures as you go along!
 

Covered in a previous Topic ....

On 22 March 2021, so 2 years ago tomorrow ! - MOT Special Notice 01-21 "Headlamp conversions"
was enacted, allowinged an LED Headlamp bulb conversion into a "Halogen" Light fitting,
providing, as stated below, thaty the Beam Pattern did not cause any undue dazzle etc,
but this only referred to motorcycles and as far as I know does not yet apply to other vehicles ( in the UK ).

Cheers 

Hi Don

Thanks for the reply.

I think you may be right. I started the bike this morning and then after about a minute of idling blipped it up to about 7500rpm twice (with everything crossed as this is not something I would normally subject a cold engine to). The revs dropped back to idle perfectly and there was no abnormal sound from the engine.

Once the temperature gauge was showing four bars I turned the bike off and restarted it. This time the noise was back and when blipped to about 7500rpm the bike stalled again and you can hear the noise in the background.

Whatever is causing the noise and stalling only appears to do so once the engine has warmed up and I would assume something has expanded with temperature??

The noise definitely appears to be coming from the region of the left hand crankcase cover/starter motor so I am now beginning to wonder if it could be something to do with the sprag clutch.

I'm hoping to get her back together for the weekend and will try your suggestion then.

Cheers.