Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Topics - Coconut

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 20
Anyone else going ?

I'm going on Day 1, and expect to spend a fair amount of time
drooling over some of the Models that I can't afford,
that I will never have, and that I am probably too old for .....  :012:

..... then I'll go and have a look at some of the Motorbikes  !  :745:

Accessories and Products / Rechargeable Handheld Air Pump
« on: November 30, 2021, 09:42:25 pm »
I just discovered this and wanted to share ...... 
I have no connection with the Manufacturer other than having just bought one !

Ring RTC2000 Hand Held Rechargeable ( via USB ) Air Pump.

Suitable for Motor Cars, Motorcycles, Cycles, Footballs etc.

Specifications :
  • Charging :
    Via Micro USB socket ( USB Type A to Micro USB Cable included )
  • Units :
    PSI / Bar / kPA
  • Pressure Range :
    0-120 PSI / 0 - 8.3 Bar
  • Wattage :]/b]
    67 W
  • Battery :
    3.7V Lithium Ion 5200 mAh

Features :
  • Rechargeable via USB
  • Backlit LED Display showing Pressure, Range in use ( PSI / Bar / kPA )
    Battery Level, and Memory position ( when selected )
  • 4 separate Memories for quick setting of different Pressures
    ( Very useful with the Trophy having different pressures Front & Rear ! )
  • Digital Autostop when set Pressure is reached
  • LED work light
  • Cordless
  • Powerbank with USB A Output socket
  • Storage for Adaptors in Base
  • Storage for Air Hose in side of Body
  • Approx 172mm ( 6.75" ) long, 66mm ( 2.6" ) wide
  • Operating environment : -20C to +60C
  • Weight : 485g

This weighs less, takes up less room and is more versatile than my previous
electric Tyre Pump that plugged into one of the accessory sockets.

The pressure gauge calibration is NOT certified, and it is recommended to check
its accuracy against a gauge that is calibrated / known to be accurate,
so that and make your own corrections if necessary.

Retail Price in the UK is around GBP 40.00 - Just in time for Christmas !  :131:

Here's some images :

Cheers  :821:

For the benefit of our United Kingdom based Members
who take their Trophy out of the Country !

As of 28th September 2021, new Rules were introduced about the International Identifiers
that are to be used by UK Motorists when travelling outside the UK.

The changes are reportedly aimed at being more inclusive of Northern Ireland,
because "GB" ( Great Britain ) does not technically include Northern Ireland,
whereas "UK" ( The United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland ), does !

The previous "GB" Sticker, either as a separate sticker,
or incorporated into a Registration Plate, with or without any Country Flag,
or the circular European Flag is no longer acceptable.

While it remains legal to display "GB" and the European Flag when driving in the UK,
the advice is to remove them or cover them up when driving outside the UK,
when a "UK" identifier must now be displayed on the rear of the vehicle,
either as a separate "UK" Sticker, or incorporated into the Registration Plate
below a Union Flag.

Note however that when travelling in Spain, Cyprus or Malta,
a separate "UK" sticker MUST be displayed on the rear of the vehicle,
regardless of what is displayed on the registration plate.

Further advice and guidance available here : : Displaying number plates, Flags, symbols and identifiers : UK car sticker: New rules for driving in the EU explained,
and why GB number-plate badges have been replaced

... at least in the UK it is, and I imaging the Rest of the World will follow suit in due course ....

The publication of the ( UK ) government's "Transportation Decarbonisation Plan" lays out
plans for the sale of all new, "non zero emission" powered motorcycles, scooters, three-wheelers
and other L-Category vehicles such as microcars, to be prohibited from the year 2035.

I've already decided, at the age of 62, that my Trophy will be the last motorcycle I buy,
and although, as far as I'm aware, this is the Government's current "plan" -
so may be subject to change, it's only 14 years away !  :159:

Cheers  :821:

Items for Sale / Set of Home Made Handlebar Risers / Spacers
« on: October 02, 2021, 06:24:36 pm »
I recently experimented with a set of Home Made Handlebar Risers / Spacers,
but found that there was not have enough slack in the Wiring and Brake Lines
around the Headstock for me to be comfortable with using them,
and I didn't want to strip all the Bodywork and Fuel Tank off
just to see if I could free up some extra slack, so I took them off again
and am offering them for sale here if anyone can use them .....

YOU must ENSURE that there is sufficient slack in the Cables and Brake Lines of your Trophy,
such that raising the Handlebars by 25mm does not cause any additional strain
to the wiring or Brake Lines etc which, in true Triumph Instructions style,
could result in a failure of electrical or braking circuits and a danger of death !

By fitting and using these home made an non-approved parts,
you accept full and total responsibility for doing so !

They are 6 individual pieces of 20mm diameter Aluminium bar,
drilled out to 8mm Diameter and machined to 25mm height.

I have sprayed them all with a coat of metallic silver paint,
quite a close match to the Handlebar colour, but slightly darker,
and with a slight blue tint.  When when fitted they are hardly visible.
( I managed to lightly scratch a few of them when fitting and removing them,
but the scratched areas can be positioned so they are not visible when fitted ! )

Also included are 6 x M8 x 1.25 x 45mm long Stainless Steel Cap Head Bolts ( 6mm Allen Key )
to replace the original 20mm bolts, which should be tightened to 26 NM.

15.00 to cover the cost of materials and also includes 3.20 for UK Economy Small Parcel Post.
Please send a Private Message if interested.  Unable to ship outside the UK at present.

Checking for play is easy enough - Put the Bike on the Centre stand,
get someone to sit on the Pillion seat to raise the front wheel off the ground,
then grab the bottom of the two fork tubes and rock them forwards and backwards
to see if you can feel any play - there should not be any.

Adjustment is described in the Service Manual - it will probably be worth getting one,
either from your Dealer, or checking the Forum Items For Sale section, or from eBay etc,
but note that the only Official version is the printed paper one, and the Forum Owners
don't allow the discussion of any non-official versions or copies on CD etc. due to Copyright.

Service Tool T3880620 is needed for the adjustment - available from Triumph Dealers and elsewhere.

To adjust the Headstock Bearings :

  • Slacken the Upper Yoke clamp bolts
    ( Ensure the Lower Yoke Clamps are tight to prevent the Forks from dropping )
  • SE Model : remove the two covers and disconnect the Fork Damping Motor
    wiring connectors from the top of the forks
  • Protect the large Headstock Upper Nut and surrounding parts against scratching
    by Taping them up etc, then remove the Nut
  • Lift the Handlebars and Top Yoke up off the Forks and Steering Stem -
    Have an assistant hold them or otherwise support them and ensure the Brake & Clutch Fluid
    Master Cylinders remain upright
  • Ensure the Steering Stem threads are free from grease
  • Remove the Lock Nut ( Using Service Tool T3880620 ) and Tab washer
  • Slacken the Adjuster Nut then tighten to 40Nm ( Using Service Tool T3880620 )
  • Slacken the Adjuster Nut then tighten to 15Nm ( Using Service Tool T3880620 )
    DO NOT Over tighten the Adjuster Nut
  • Fit the Tab washer and Locknut
  • Hold the Adjuster Nut in position to ensure it does not move,
    and tighten the Lock Nut to 40Nm ( Using Service Tool T3880620 )
  • Refit the Handlebars and Top Yoke assembly to the Forks
  • Refit and tighten the Headstock Upper Nut to 90Nm
  • Tighten the Upper Yoke Clamp Bolts to 25Nm
  • SE Model : Reconnect the Fork Damping Motor connectors and refit their covers
  • Re check for any play at the lower end of the forks as previously described

Cheers  :821:

Working on my Trophy recently I noticed the wires that go into the connector
of the Locking Solenoid for the Storage Box connector were frayed.
After a little "wobble" they detached completely :

Every time the Fairing is removed, the Storage Box needs to come out, and although
I usually unplug the wiring socket, the repetitiveness of doing so puts strain on the wires,
especially as the little catch that has to be depressed to release it is awkward to get at.

One solution is to remove the Solenoid completely and live with an "insecure" Storage Box.

There are just 2 Torx screws to remove from underneath the Storage Box,
and the Solenoid assembly slides out as shown in the above Photo's.

if anyone in the same situation wants to fix a similar problem,
you will need a replacement Plug connector, and two new contact pins.

I've identified these as the following parts :

Plug Housing ( Identical apart from being white not black ! ) :
TE Connectivity Part Number 174463-1
RS Components ( UK ) Part Number 362-8998 ( 2 way Multilock 070 1-row plug housing ). 1.22 inc vat

Contact Pins :
TE Connectivity Part Number 175027-6
RS Components ( UK ) 712-2188 ( Multilock 070 Contact 16AWG ) - Pack of 20. 3.26 +vat

New wires can then be crimped onto the new Contact Pins
which are inserted into the new Housing Plug, then the new wires
connected to the original Trophy harness wires. ( Soldering is best. )

I bought a few sets of these, so if anyone needs to do this repair just drop me
a Private message and I can send you a set for the price they cost plus postage.

Seemingly as a result of previously well documented instances of tight wiring to the Ignition Switch
( Subsequently subject of a Safety Recall ) some Members have had failures of the wiring to the
Immobiliser Transponder, which is encapsulated into the Ignition Switch Housing, requiring a
complete replacement of the Ignition Switch Assembly, which can be costly and result in
having different keys for the Ignition and the other locks on the Bike.

It IS possible, with care, to remove the Transponder Antenna housing and wiring,
and replace it, if a replacement can be located.
( Suggest asking Dealers for any left over Ignition Switches from the Safety Recall ).

Here's how :

The Ignition switch assembly must be removed from the Bike -
( Dealt with elsewhere in the Forum ).

This is where the Transponder Antenna is located :

The wiring loom from the Ignition Switch, which includes a sub loom for the Antenna,
connects to a socket underneath the left Loudspeaker.

This is the Plug from the Ignition Switch showing the two Pins of the two Antenna Wires,
which are of a  lighter gauge than the other Ignition Wires, and are coloured Brown, and White :

On my Trophy, using a ( non-calibrated ) Multi-Meter the Resistance between those two pins is 9.7 Ohms.
If there is either NO Continuity, or NO Resistance ( Short Circuit ) then this indicates
either a break in one or both wires, or a short circuit somewhere between them.

Remove the two small cross head screws from the bottom cover and remove the cover,
which may also be cable tied in position, to reveal the wiring.

This image shows the places where it is most likely for the Antenna wiring to have been damaged,
i.e. where any cable ties act upon them, and where they enter and exit the housing as shown:

Turn the Switch over and study the Keyhole area to locate
the two slots in the plastic shroud as shown :

Insert a fine flat bladed screwdriver or similar into these slots to release
the retaining tabs and gently persuade the shroud up and off the lock :

If required, the upper plastic part containing the Ignition Switch Position symbols
can be removed from the Shroud, by carefully depressing the internal tabs and withdrawing it :

Now we need to remove the two wiring Pins from the Multi-Plug.

Carefully cut away the existing cable sheathing
( It can be replaced and taped back over when refitting ).

A suitable tool is needed for depressing the locking tabs of the Pin Cover
and the Pins, to release them from the body of the Plug :

First remove the Orange Pin Cover - Use the tool to depress the Tabs
and a pair of tweezers or similar to pull on the pegs to remove it while they are depressed.
( An extra pair of hands would be useful here ! )

With the Pin Cover removed the Pins are revealed and their Locking Tabs can be accessed :

Insert the Tool between the edge of the Pin and the Plastic body.
It can help to pull on the Pin with a Pair of tweezers while inserting the tool
to create a little clearance for the tool to enter.

Once the Tool is inserted try pushing the Pin into the Plug body and out of the other side.
If it still feels solid, try the tool on the other side of the Pin, and be patient -
they can be stubborn to release !

Once released, fully withdraw them from the back of the Plug.

A new / replacement shroud with Transponder Antenna can then be refitted,
and the wiring Pins pushed back into the Plug until they "click" into place.

Try not to put any sharp turns on the wires where they enter and exit the base of the Ignition switch
and that when re-installed on the Bike they are not pulled tight when the handlebars are turned.

Cheers  :821:


Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 20